SlowGTS-t

Injector duty cycle at X rpm and X load always remains the same regardsless of fuel pressure as the ECU has no idea how much fuel is going in, just how long to open the injectors for per cycle. Car will run richer though. You'll need a remap to fix that.

Headlamp = high beam? Mine are = 85w Fog lamp = low beam Mine are = 55w side lights = park lights? Mine are = blown... heheh

if you hear a metalic rattling coming from the exhaust housing, chances are your wastegate is not completely shut. Take the actuator off, bend the arm so that its shorter. Do if until the hole completely misses the tit that sticks out of the actuator arm. You'll have to pull the arm out from the actuator to get it back on.

Anyone seen one of these and knows how to use/install them? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.theego.orcon.net.nz/AVC-R.JPG http://www.theego.orcon.net.nz/Solenoid.JPG Whats the green wire for??

It all depends on what you want to do. I personally would go for a small turbo that could run a lot of boost (say 1.2 bar) and develop full boost at less than 4000rpm. Most of my driving is on the open road and on the twisties, a big laggy turbo IS A PAIN IN THE ARSE! Injectors? Er.. I've been meaning to try fitting RB25DET injectors to an RB20DET .. but cant do much until someone lends me a set of them with the fuel rail. Im sure it will actually fit. Has anyone else tried this? 6x370cc's with a bit more fuel pressure and a good fuel pump should do the trick. I think GTR ones are a little on the big side. SOme form of aftermarket ECU would be a good idea too. Provided everythin is tuned right, high boost shouldnt be too much of a problem.

R32 owners, put your 52mm gauge inside the right had side drivers air vent. It fits perfectly, looks factory and isnt too visible. No damage to things either if you do it right.

RX7's are farking awesome. I own a GTS-t and have been in a S6 Batmobile. Handling and power, it absolutely kills the Skyline. The Type R's (later models) have 206 kw and less than 1200kg to pull so they are insanely quick for a stock car. They handle like they are on rails. Take any corner than my T can do and add 20kph, easy for the bat . THey also look ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo sexy. Buy one and you will get plenty of ***** *grin* But there are few reasons why I didnt get a batmobile. 1. They feel a bit tinny and flimsy compared with my lump-o-lard skyline. 2. They are a bit cramped inside. 3. They sound like a duck on steroids with a big-bore 4. They can be quite expensive to fix if the last ownere didnt look after them But most of all.. THEY SUCK GAS LIKE YOU WOULDNT *(&@#)($*)@#(*$)(#*$ BELIEVE!!!!! It would cost so much to drive the damn thing around.. Not just me. EVO magazine in the UK quoted the TT Supra and the R32 GTR as 28mpg, while the Batmobile averaged... get this 17mpg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Whatshisname, why did you change the BOV? Did changing it actually give you any more performance? Azlan

my factory valve does that... er.. I've got a FMIC and some sort of hybrid made from an RB25 turbo...

Hooked up the AVCR yesterday to test. Does anyone know how to a) wire up B) actually use these things? Its got 2 buttons and 1 knob in front, Says AVC Type R (but no super) 5 wires at the back 2 for solenoid and red, black and green wires Oh, the boost sensor is inside the controller box. With just red and black on, it fires up! Pumped up the sensor with a bicycle pump and the solenoid clicks merrily away. All seems good except.. The solenoid is normally closed. So it appears that if you turn off the boost controller, the car runs unlimited boost!!! I assume that the solenoid is inline like the other AVCRs.. if so .. what a stupid idea! Also, what the heck is the green wire? 4.67 volts on it is the best I can tell. The controller also doesnt seem to have a high/low mode, just volume. Ist this some sort of switching wire??? Duh.. Or maybe its an RPM wire??? Does anyone know/????

take the BOV off, block off the hole with a plate cut to the right size and block off the hole in the pipe before the turbo with a proper plug. Er.. and biff all that other piping. WHile you're at it, you could biff the charcoal canister and all the hoses and pipes associated with it and run a hose straight to the BOV from the manifold.

All good if you ahve a 2.5 but I have a 2.0 with a big turbo.

Yeah i didnt even know this existed. I still think that there's be quite a lot of leakage from the turbine outlet into the wastegate line since there doesnt look to be any sort of separator. I stuck one in my R32 with the RB25 turbo (now rebuilt with a very slightly larger compressor wheel ) er.. and bent the actuator arm heaps er.. I can pretty much get to full boost in 4th by say 3600rpm. Choice!

Meggala, Wouldnt that dump pipe sound awful at idle since there is no seal between the dump and the main pipe? Sorta like the hell exhaust leak? Azlan