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HOME PRODUCTS ABOUT AEM FAQs Once again - one dyno run - changed our direction , good for over 700 hp. red . get onto the AEM link as mentioned below . over $ 220 US landed- $200 aus . delivered - like new still in box. Pm me Universal Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator FAQs... AEM's Universal Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator is capable of supporting enough fuel flow for engines up to 1000 horsepower. Our patented interchangeable discharge ports enable the regulator's output to match the output of any fuel pump. Our universal fuel pressure regulator is tapped to accept a -6 AN, or 9/16”x18 fittings and includes a 1/8 NPT port for a fuel pressure gauge or pressure sensor pick up. Universal fuel pressure regulator adapts to virtually any vehicle Interchangeable discharge ports match regulator output to output of any fuel pump Patent # 6,298,828 Adjustable from 20 psi to maximum fuel pump capacity CNC-machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum Manufactured and assembled in the USA Product Description Part # Price Universal Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Pressure Regulator Fitting 25-390 $20.18 Fuel Pressure Regulator Rebuild Kit 25-392 $42.59 Fuel Pressure Regulator, Universal 25-302 $206.4

No One?

Gents , i have heard of this being done on hi HP combo's. Just in case my question is not very clear. Apparently it has been known to bolt a plate across the block on the sides some where to strengthen it some how , i have sat and looked but can not see much advantage in this , but then again i can see the logic ,. Can any one shed some light on this at all ?

Wanted as above. to suit 16 x 8 skyline rims

Ok - so what dose one use for added traction in a drag scenario? And whilst i have your attention , who knows the best place to get some et ot Goodyear drag slicks new or used - i cant seem to find any one who has them in stock ?

New build 26/30 basic tune , will be re - tunning now that run in . Found out we had a blown turbo manifold gasket- will get better results. Will post out come ITS single top mount. Ported head and good quality valve trane etc. Forged and balanced internals. Custom intake plenum and scavaging ex manifold. Upsized injectors and fuel system

Trader Rating: 14 WILL SWAP 16 X 8 STANDARD R32 GTR RIMS FOR ANY THING HERE - DONT CARE WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE - NEED FOR DRAGS ALSO NEED SLICK OR SIMILAR Gtr Radiator and cowling $150 very good cond Gtr Thermo Fan $65 After market oil cooler new $90.00 ABS system good working order $150 Hicas ram and components $100 Race seat fibre glass back and cushions - universal black - new -$160 Turbo smart manual boost controler $60 Ignitor $50 Coil loom $50 ( ignitor to paks ) Flywheel $50 Engine mounts $30 pair Rear windscreen wiper motor etc $50 26 head - bare no valves etc - milled and ready to bolt down $250 ( pics avail ) Air con evaporator for under dash $100 harmonic balancer $100 g ready light weight pulley ( anodised Blue to suit water pump ) $40 timming belt - little use- $35 2 x stock Gtr fuel rails $50 for both ( one missing reg ) Variety of 3"intake silicone hoses and pipe work to suit single compressor and large cooler $100 New o2 sensors in box- pair $140 Rear seats in good condition - no marks - a little faded on top $200 Factory spare wheel - skinny type - $20[/color]SOLD Rear safety belts $40 pair located in Mandurah WA - postage on small parts is cheap - variess on the larger stuff - i use OZ post as they are cheap and reliable. smile.gif please send pm

Can any one remember the above as i have forgotten -Tommie m h gasket

You have 4 x small screws at each c pak and larger bolts on each bank of coil paks attached to the head- yes/ Make sure you undo every one and remove, if they are tight try a small screw driver under the larger plates- 3 i think from memory and pry upwards , cant hurt any thing - the coil pals will come with them . - good luck.

Can any one sell me 12 of the above please? thanks

Require the above.

AS above - PM please

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Who can shed some light on this please. As above cams and duration -- need to know of the springs installed pressure and the nose presure that one would use given this application. The hp looking for is around 900 attc. What springs would one use as i have heard that most people go hi spring pressures( 90 to 110 at the nose) and that contradicts what a few others have said . ( 55 - 75 )?_

What tha??

Well after reading that i am not sure what to do ? My head is milled with minimal machine marks but the block is quite visible , surely removing all the coating on a MLS gasket is not necassary when the engine has not even been fired.? This seems like another waste of money , there must be advantages in using a copper HG as it is more maleable. So - if my block is assembled and in the bay now - what head gasket should one use? Can i prep the block in there , i don't think so or spray or coat the surfaces for block and not head. I will be running bigish HP - not sure what direction to go in as some other workshops say the MLS will seal when exposed to temp ? If reusing - tourqing up the studs a few extra puonds should do the trick.- your opinions

Thats a shame becauase they are expensive but having a leak is something that is hard to live with. Since your Burkos and others responses i have done a little research - as in Tomei head gasket leaking - and guess what - there is a few people who have also experienced the same thing- mine was also weeping on the exhuast side between 2 and 3 . The head and the deck are all true , but the deck is a little ruff and as one member previously mentioned that this is not the best. I also noticed that when i had removed the gasket and did a visual inspection and between the water galeries they are all joined that is to say that they are not sealed from each other but are sealed from the oil galeries . Is this normal as it seems strange to me - there was marks where it has tried to to seal in the water areas that i have mentioned but more none than a seal ?

Azzr, what model is it - Stinger _ 8860 ? How many bar is the map sensors - up to 2.8 or up to 5?

And guess what??? Had the head pressure tested and found hole in # 3- you wouldn't read about it, the head was supposed to be a GOOD one! Any way the problem has a remedy that is get the head repaired. As far as the studs are concerned - ARP- i usually use minimal lube and finger tight then just a small nip as the head sldes down the studs and the nuts tighten the head down- the nut ends of the studs have moly lube on them . I will though use the Hylomar as i will re use the gasket - but don't these Tomei super gromet style gaskets anneal once the engine is run up to temp? They look like they are ment to do something like that as they have minimal coating in them.

Can any one shed a little light on this problem - Tomei 1.2 mm h gasket - super gromet on a RB 26/30- engine not started yet - fresh. Every thing done right - preped and torqued corectly - but gasket weeping coolant ? Head off - no physical signs of problem? As stated - engine not started. Surely i can reuse this gasket - is there any type of adhesive or compound that one can use to make it seal better- or am i doing something wrong ? Any one heard of this before as it seems strange ? Thanks

.Need one of these gaskets if any one has one please. Thanks --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

. Thanks Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As per request as mine got ripped off. thanks

Which do you have the fuse or the window winderuper box ? I am in Perth - only cost acouple of dollaroonies to post thanks I also like sausages with mash spud and baked beanzz