exXU1

HKS - what am i talking about - sorry i mean NISMO

Not sure if you guys know what these are ? - Ex wheels back cut, high flowed metal wheels, to replace these it will set you back over 4 k, these are awesome turbos , direct fit, complete with gates etc,can't believe i have no interest? Don't be silly enough to think it has to have HKS,Trust or Gready stamped on the side, if you do then your sadly mistaken.

Nice set that i have just had totally rebuilt by Per4manz Turbo chargers, comp wheels - cartridge etc. Not chinese copies but the real deal. They are the largest GTR turbos that nissan used for production racing class so they are legal to use in this application. Heaps of grunt for the street rated at about 360 hp ea. Direct fitment. Will send pics upon genuine request but hey - they are shiny turbo chargers! $2800 WA - please PM

yes it will

As the above says in very good condition -low k's $200 WA

MAKE?

Spot on Smiley - hey no biggy, it was TEST and TUNE and that we did. Felt great, launched straight with minimal torque steer so far and no major issues on the day. Changed the flex plate today with a decent yella terra one so that will do the trick, fixed a little oil leak and a couple of other minor adjustments. Overall i'm very happy with her first day out, big believer in taking it greasy at first to get a feel for it before going mental, like taking a woman out for the first time i suppose. Thanks for the team effort - "Smiley" DATSQIK HARDCORE JAP ENGINES - "TIMBO" SIKEM REX RACING and CLINT AND BELINDA.

ON EBAY - WHAT THE !

yes we will be there

A bit of fun, feels good,cant wait to get serious and step it up a cog. Thanks for the hand today guys.

All PM's responded too.

Sorry forgot to attach - should be there now. ---97k

Have this cluster from my GTR R32, it was in her when i bought it, taking the whole car back to original so i don't need. BUT - i am not sure what it's out of or if it's just a genuin NISMO cluster as the top left hand side has the boost guage instead of torque and there is a digital clock down the bottom on the right hand side. Is this out of a GTST or something - not sure . Open to sensible offers - not sure what to ask. Used in very good condition showing 97k WA

Need one of these - suit left handside but i think they are interchangeable . Pleas pm

Thanks Lads - you can find more on her under " for those of you that may be interested " in the drift and drag section.

You have a bit of work to do here. The original paint m ust be Dyna braided back, not all the way through to the base coat - just evenly sand the clear coat and where the clear coat is flaking or comming off - feather it by sanding it back until you break through to the grey base coat underneath and do till you are happy that that area is smooth.Putty all your small digs etc with a fine filler and always sand back with a block to keep surfaces true and flat.Use an acrylic primer where and metal or repaired areas need somethin g to etch too. If you have no repaires then you can go straight over your sanded cear and Grey with the next step.If you do have reapaires as i think you do , then i would primer any areas that look like they need it to make sure the paint sticks, sand bach with dry 400. then blow the car off with air, then wipe the whole car with prepsol/ wax remover.Then make sure your floor is wet to stop any dirt in the air getting on you paint job ( after seeping of course). You can then applie you base coat Grey - just take the Nissan paint code to an Auto paint supplier and get mixed up - two litres if your only doing the outside. You will need to buy, The base coat Grey 2 litres, 2 litres of base coat binder to apply the flakes and then 2 litres of 2 pack clear coat(no flakes- just finishing coat). @ ltrs of Prepsol/wax remover ( cleaning agent before painting),dase coat reducer for the base coat (10% when mixing) and 2 ltrs of 2 pack thiners, 10% also. If you want to put the black flakes over the Grey then you need to add the flakes to a base coat clear or binder. Once applied the base coat clear with the flakes in it will stick up and be rough, dont and i say do not attempt to smooth out the roughness by attempting to do more coats of clear over the top as clear will not FILL and just F%$k it all up. the bigger the flake the harder the work and make sure you have the correct tip when applying. So - you have plenty of blocking back to do ( sanding) until there roughness has gone, block back with 400 wet and dry. Once your happy , block back again by hand with 800 wet and dry. Blow off and do all the required preping - wet the floor - make sure you hair - cloths do not have dust etc and no finger marks oil etc on the car - thats what Prepsol does - cleans the surface. NOW - spray your clear in nice even sweeps about 250 mm away fro your job - slowish even sweeps about 3 seconds back and forth over a meter or there abouts. Try and avoid runs. Two coats of base coat clear and then one of binder with your flakes in then finally two coats of clear only - leave about 10 minutes between each coat on all. Then shut all the doors and leave it till the n ext day. quote name='M3ld' date='24 Aug 2009, 09:23 PM' post='4786161'] I have a gun metal grey 4 door 33. The clear coat is f**ked. I am lookng at getting the black flakes off of this site. Now what would I have to do for this paint.....So after I rub it all back then what? It is stone chipped and needs a few dents fixed. So after the prep work is done....Do I have to coat it in gunmetal grey or what kind of undercoat, followed by the flakes in clear and then clear it over again?

Here are a few pics of the Carbon Splitter / Fibreglass diffuser that John at STEANO - ROTA OZ can supply. It was easy to fit to the existing lip as the holes all line up well. The product has a carbon lip - splitter and light weight glass diffuser that go's back under. I was surprised at the quality and how light it was. A BIG thanks John and the boys at .STEANO - ROTA OZ

Here are a few pics of the Carbon Splitter / Fibreglass diffuser that John at STEANO - ROTA OZ can supply. It was easy to fit to the existing lip as the holes all line up well. The product has a carbon lip - splitter and light weight glass diffuser that go's back under. I was surprised at the quality and how light it was. A BIG thanks John and the boys at .STEANO - ROTA OZ [ attachment=246521:KIF_3070.JPG]

whats been done to the crank apart from Collar - ----Nitride etc ?//

Which is the good turbo in the pics and which is the stuffed one ? Need a few more pics as one intake wheel looks bad - si that the one with the rag chew - whats the other one like.Post up a pic of the tag with numbers and ID on please.

http://s584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/e...nt=KIF_2978.flv

Will post up a few more vids from the other day when we introduced a wet shot of NOS at SIKEM WREX RACING - spooled her up nice on the stall, still doing a little fine tunning , spose that never stops. Should hit the track soon.

Got the window strips on top of the door for a R32 GTR? Need both sides

Would like to have the japanese symbols for "sweet ride" to put on my car. Please give genuine symbols and not so i am driving around with small cock or cops breathe written instead.etc . Thanks

Not a very good description , but what do you call the single strip on top of the door in black but chrome underneath - is full lenghth of door runs horizontal and has a rubber lip that touches the window glass? A weather strip ? Well i need two of those = one for each side. pm or 0437003601