Dee 33

That's a good question. I also would like to know the answer to this one.

F**kin ugly. Even those 2 pictures are ugly. Personal opinion though.

Oval muffler on mine with 5inch (or so) tip. Looks daym sweet, and keeps the car very quiet. When I fly past with over 300hp ripping at the ground, all you'll hear is the engine and the induction

We all know the feeling. I already have enough power for street (240rwkw) which fries the tires in first and second. There is no practical reason for me to need more power yet I still want it. 1st and 2nd gear are hard enough, but I want more power in 3rd, 4th and 5th! Why? I honestly don't know I think it's just the instinct of the male kicking in. No matter what a man has, he'll always want more...

Same as everyone else. Take it to a tuner who knows Microtechs. Average Joe Joe mechanic has no damn clue on how to tune an ECU. I winced when the RACQ guy started fiddling with my Wolf3D hand controller when it had starting probs.

I have an R33, my brother has a Soarer so listen to me okay The Soarer pulls harder in a straight line in stock form, however it is an auto so when it comes to going for a joyride, the manual R33 is a lot more fun. A lot! Both cars seems to struggle once the revs get up if you haven't done the exhaust. The soarer in my opinion is nicer on the inside (my brother has the full black interior, sweet stuff) and the R33 in my opinion is nicer on the outside. Both cars are reliable when purchased in good condition. Both of ours are 94 models, however my turbo crapped itself and his gearbox crapped itself so both of them have been upgraded. Stock for stock? I'd take the Skyline because a slightly lighter, manual is more fun to drive, even though is loses out slightly in a straight line. My car vs his car? Weeeelll I have $10k of mods so there's no comparison. None at all.

For what's it worth, I love my Wolf3Dv4. Not a single complaint at all. Wouldn't swap it.

Should be able to handle 250+rwkw easy. Remember, if it's a street car you're only ever going to be running this much power at your peak which you won't hit often.

According to specs, the R33 gts-t runs a faster quarter than the Aus spec S15. According to my observations, my R33 (when it had only a catback) felt faster than my mates S15, although you could tell the weight difference. However, everyone knows that once you start modding, the S15 will surpass the Gts-t in terms of performance. It already handles better. As for top speed stability, dunno... haven't been in an S15 over 120km/h. My modded R33 however will pull all the way to 220 and beyond without a hitch. Braking from this speed though is a bit nasty

Well isn't this a dilly of a pickle

It was funny how I used to cringe everytime I'd scrape my front bar soon after I got it. A few weeks later and I was used to it, haven't given a sh*t since. People who hear it scrape at shops or whatever will wince at the noise and pass a sypathetic look but I just raise my eyebrows and shrug at them as if to say "It's expected, I'm over it."

Was boosting last night and something was suss... Was spiking up 3psi!!! Runs 15psi but was spiking up to 18psi when boosting hard in third. Going to test again tonight to sus this out before making a final judgement on whether or not to put my GFB Bleeder back on which spikes 1psi. Hmmm... seemed to work fine when I first installed it...

Whacked mine in. 240rwkw R33, was running 15psi though a GFB Bleed Valve. Pulled bleed valve out, put new valve in. Same spot, same pipes. Found the right boost level and tested. Boost does NOT spike 1 bit. Flies up to 15psi and then stops dead. Not one bit at all. However, rather than dropping off as I approach redline it is creaping up by about 1psi, so it effectively goes from 15psi up to 16psi. However I'm pretty sure the GFB was doing that to me as well anyway. Overall. This item is a lot better than your average bleed valve. There is no reason to have a bleed valve when you can use this better item for far cheaper. The only convenience a bleed valve has is an easier adjustment (not so sensitive, no locker nut required).

Wolf3Dv4 user here and couldn't be happier. My car does have a little trouble on cold start up but that's because it was initially running too rich and flooding itself while trying to start. I also was a victim of the "please leave it for one more night, we need to tune the idle/startup"... I couldn't wait and took the car anyway and then had the starting issues. Lowering the fuel allowed it to start every time, although the idle on startup is now a little weak. Once it's been going for 20 seconds, it's perfect. As for how they run on turbo engines? 460hp Turbo 3inch Exhaust FMIC Atmo BOV (showing this for a reason even though yes it's a lame mod) Fuel Pump STOCK Injectors 243rwkw @ 16psi. Have been driving it for 6 weeks now. Has NEVER backfired or missed a beat. Pulls all the way to 8000rpm (when I'm not paying attention to the revs ) without misfiring or coughing or spluttering. MAP's rule. I can pssscchhtttt all day long without that aweful backfire it used to make. Everyone who has checked out my car has commented on how well it has been tuned. Work done by WASP on the Gold Coast with tuning done at PITS. Could NOT be happier :0

Full tank ($50-$60) will get me 400km. Mix of country/city, mostly country. 240rwkw with average spasms of 15psi @ 7000rpm.

Although I think in some ways it's the people who pay themselves and pay for the mods themselves feeling a little jealous. I paid 17.5k for my R33 and then spent 10k modding it up. My money. A mate paid 24k for a 1999 240rwkw S14. Full kit, mad wheels. At the end of the day, he has a better, faster and cheaper car. Personally I'd rather have his car and 3.5k than the satisfaction that I bought my car stock.

Ordered mine. I'll let you know how it goes in direct replacement of my GFB unit running 16psi. The GFB for me is holding fine, but it spikes 1psi which sucks teh cok.

I'm running 240rwkw at 16psi at the moment and although my brand new tires managed to hold second without losing traction for 2 weeks, they're now starting to spin whenever boost comes on. 3rd gear can hold traction, but second no longer. Once you start losing traction it just gets worse because the more traction you lose, the faster you lose tread and then you lose more traction blah blah. Just like a turbo boosting it creates a chain effect that gets worse and worse. Good tires for the win!

So let me get this straight. A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position. A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit. This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal. In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost. Comprende?

Or just do what I did and get cooler, exhaust, ECU and turbo all at the same time

Someone asked this before but I didn't see the answer. Can you just switch this device in place of your current aftermarket bleed valve? My stock solenoid is out of the equation as I have extensive mods, and I've had a GFB Bleed valve put in. I am very interested in this item as in 1st-3rd gear I'm not hitting full boost until 4000rpm. 4th and 5th hit it quicker as it seems the turbo has more time to build up boost. So... will this item directly replace the bleed valve or would I be running both (or remove bleed valve altogether). Thanks for any help guys. I'm very close to buying one of these.

Hehe remembering not to stall... that was the hardest thing to learn in my R33 even though I was a veteran manual driver when I got it. People just assume you suck at driving but little do they know, Skylines have stalling problems!!!

I have a 240rwkw R33. I have a 1990 Ford Laser which I gave to my brother which he doesn't have his license yet. I use the Laser if my R33 is in the shop but I absolutely hate driving it around town and anywhere in fact when I could be driving the Skyline. The Skyline is my daily driver and weekend joyrider. I didn't just spend $10k on mods for it to be driven 100-200km on the weekend. I enjoy being in my Skyline so I drive it wherever I can I know sometimes you take risks with parking etc. but it's worth it when I get to jump in and drive off. I actually look forward to driving home from work each arvo because I get to drive the Skyline. With the Laser, I never got that satisfaction. If I was to buy a daily shitter though I'd prob get an AE82, at least then I get some fun.

If you've been driving autos for a while now (3 or so years whatever) you'll find picking up a manual to be simple. My mate was an auto driver from the start (although he got his manual license) and just bought an S15. It took him a few weeks and now he's fine with it. Manuals ARE more fun. So if you're buying a car for FUN, buy a manual.

Hi guys. I have dumped a lot into my car including 460hp turbo, fuel pump, Wolf3D v4 etc. Now I have someone who is interested in purchasing the old R33 Gts-t ecu off me. I'm not sure if I want to sell it because I know some people keep them in case they ever have to go back to stock. I have also kept the intercooler, airbox and turbo (although the exhaust wheel is rooted) but I wanted to check on your guys opinions as to if it's even worth me keeping it. The stock ECU would not be able to handle my turbo and I'm not planning on selling this thing considering the money I just spent on it so the chances of me ever going back to stock are very slim. The only thing I can think of is if the Wolf died on me and I needed something to plug in to last me a week or so of driving. However, I will have larger injectors in the near future so I don't know if the stock ECU would even run the car with these in. Any advice would be great. However, the main question is... how readily available are these ECU's and what are they WORTH? That's the main thing... how much is a reasonable price for the ECU?