Dee 33

Since you said you'd like to run mid to high 13's then a 3inch is what you should go for. As for what brand of exhaust, no idea... mine is a custom one and works/sounds great.

I have the same bleed valve as you. Here was my problem. Car would boost up to about 10psi, and then gradually creep up to about 14psi by 7000rpm. Keep in mind this is with aftermarket computer/turbo/cooler etc. The thing was, I wanted 16psi right from the start. None of this gradual increase crap. What I managed to find out was that someone had fully closed the valve between when it got tuned (at 16psi) and then I picked the car up. So with NO valve (valve closed), my car was running the minimum boost which was 10psi at 4000rpm up to 14psi at 7000. I opened the valve 1 turn, nothing... 3 turns, nothing... 10 turns, instant 12psi and 15 turns... 16psi at 4000rpm. By turns I could be meaning half turns cause I can't remember but the point is, you really have to wind that thing out many turns before you will notice an increase in boost over stock. Also as far as I know, the valve does not let you lower your boost. You can't make it run less boost than stock. However, winding it out (if nothing happens just keep winding) should increase your boost to where you want it. Also, for the GFB Atomic, you need an ALLEN KEY to open it up. Make sure you using one

That's sounds awefully cheap. You sure you can comply them for that little?

I'd say it would depend how big and how much boost. If the things starts flowing air faster than your computer can match the fuel, you'll lean out which = bad bad bad! With very low boost you should be ok. Just don't expect a performance imrovement until your fuel issues are sorted.

Having recently experienced clutch slip in my R33 (to the point where it would no longer drive) this is exactly what would happen. Foot goes down. Boost increases and car accelerates. Revs start flying up but car goes no faster, resulting in boost loss. Clutch starts to grab again. Revs drop as clutch re-engages. Boost comes back on and car pulls to redline without slipping. This happened every time until the clutch no longer worked at all. I didn't even make it home that afternoon. You will know it's the clutch if the problem is worse in higher gears. Try it out.

For $100 I'll sell you my old R33 turbo which is internally gated and has a smashed exhaust wheel.

I know a few people who use the Mongoose with no complaints whatsoever. As far as I'm concerned, if it uses all black wiring, has shock sensors (or microwave sensor) and immobilises your car then I'm happy.

I hate my 180km/h speedo. I'm too scared to take it over 180 because that's where the speedo ends!

My workshop dude said that the hybrid cores are fine but as someone else suggested, they use chrome plating on the piping in the kits which flakes off and looks like shit. I have just had a Garret fmic kit installed on my S1 R33. Sits a tiny bit too high for my front bar (which is damn low) but the pipes are shiny and there was not much modification needed.

I have just had major upgrades done to my car from stock and used both an aftermarket turbo and the wolf3d v4. With the following... IPS460hp low mount turbo (internal gate) Garret 300x600 fmic kit Walbro 500hp pump Malpassi Fuel Reg 3inch from turb with hi flow cat apexi pod filter 5 hours of dyno tuning Just over 240rwkw on 16psi using standard injectors. The tuner said there was definately more power there but the injectors were not going to go any higher. As for the wolf? The car is amazing! It roars all the way to redline and beyond (accidentally hit the limiter (8k) in 1st because the revs flew up so bloody fast). It's a whole new machine. No complaints from me for any of the parts installed. My only whinge? Standard clutch lasted 2 hours. If your clutch is a little week, get it upgraded!

Picked up my Skyline on Friday afternoon which had just had a few mods done to it. More specifically, enough mods to take it from stock power to 240rwkw. Went I sent it down there, I knew the clutch was not in the best condition. When I got it back, it would not boost in any gear except 1st and 2nd and like someone previously mentioned, you would floor it... revs would jump up but then at about 5k it would grab on and then pull the car to redline. So it would slip, then grab. 2 hours after picking it up, the car wouldn't grab at all and I had to get it towed. Getting a heavy duty pressure plate installed this week though. Hopefully enough to keep me happy until I upgrade the whole thing

If you're out in the sticks and you're going down a huge hill then there's no reason to keep the car in gear. I coast in neutral all the time as what's the point of accelerating down a hill when you're braking at the same time? You're speeding and slowing the car at the same time and I see that as inefficient. But tha's jus me

Lol guys, I think he was hoping for a serious reply. I have a 3 point immobiliser but I think one of them in addition to a club lock should be plenty unless you're leaving the car in a place where theives would have the time to remove/replace a stearing wheel or tow it away. I refuse to leave my car in vulnerable places.

Well you really get what you pay for and I personally wouldn't spend that little on an R32 Gts-t because for that cheap, there could be things which start going wrong. If you can save a little longer and perhaps get about 13k you should be able to get a very decent one. As for the insurance, well it's really up to you. I'd feel too insecure having only fire and theft on my Skyline although when I had my old Ford Laser it was fire and theft all the way with no issues ever. Do whichever one you feel most comfortable with and consider the quotes for insurance as well. If you are getting ridiculous full comp prices, some calculations might show you that you'll be better off with third party for any crashes under 5k damage or so considering the very high excesses etc. As for driveability? I teach my little brother to drive in my manual stock R33 Gts-t. Well, it's in the shop now getting some upgrades so I might have to cancel future lessons but as a stock car they are very driveable. He loves it

Boost gauge is one of the the most useful aftermarket mods I have on my car. Couldn't live without out it.

The only way to stop the fan is with the off button. You can turn the air conditioning off and moderate the temperature and fan speed (1, 2, 3 or 4) but there is no 0 speed for the fan. I'm not sure if the fan resets to off when you turn the car off and my 33's at the shop atm so I can't test it but this might be the only way. If it doesn't reset, then you're going to have to deal with it or get and auto electrician to have a poke. An alternative would be to rig up your own switch to the fan which just cuts it power (tap into the earth wire). You could get a mechanic to do this for you if you don't want to try it yourself.

I'd like to see a remote starter start my Gts-t. I have hard enough time myself. It usually won't start until the third go in the morning (not warmed up) and required some precision pedal pumping as well. Time for a new starter/battery? Perhaps... maybe you have the same problems. How does your Pulsar start normally?

My front bar bolts straight on and off however I was unable to remove the skirts as they were glued on. I'd check with the manufacturer of the body kit you wish to purchase as to whether or not it's going to bolt straight on (assuming you don't have a front mount intercooler). I'm not sure about gluing the skirts on or not, but if you're happy with them I don't see the harm. I imagine without glue they could be a bit flimsy and even end up rattling. Also remember that if you're sticking it on yourself, you'll have to get someone to paint it beforehand.

Getting the Apexi myself as advised by my workshop mechanic. He informed that compared to the K&N Panel and Pod, the Apexi flowed better in all tests.

Damn, if you ask me that is a f**king sweet looking Skyline. Lets just hope that nothing goes wrong with it mechanically because by the sounds of it, you're EXTREMELY happy with it so far! I would say I'm jelous but I also have an R33 Gts-t Skyline, being modified to the shithouse at the moment ($9k of mods) so yeh, I'm all good.

It's a cheapo brand of cooler. "Hybrid" is the brand. They are typically imitations of Jap coolers but are manufactured somewhere cheap (Korea/China???). And if you ask on here whether or not they're any good you will only get mixed answers. Some people prefer a decent brand name cooler (Trust/Garret) and some will say it won't make shit all difference if the car's only for street use

You will find that a lot of people prefer the R32's (for the look/handling) and a lot prefer the R33's (for the look and better engine). I myself am an R33 boy because I think they look better, they are newer, they are more powerful and have a better engine to work with. But when it comes down to it, both are fantastic cars and your best bet would be to have a drive in both of them (stock/modified) and see what you think as asking on a forum will only get you mixed answers based on people's personal preferences. Summary: Both are as good as eachother It all comes down to personal preference.

Speaking from PERSONAL EXPERIENCE here. Mates new 2005 Monaro, stock. My S1 R33 Gts-t. 3inch catback. Rolling start from 70km/h -------------------------------- He nailed it first with me gunning it about 1/2 a second later. I was in second gear. He slowly pulled away throughout the gears. From 70-140 he probably had about 3 car lengths on me by the end of it. Put it this way, I was damn impressed by how well the Skyline managed to keep up considering all I had was a catback exhaust. This was giving me 8psi of boost (I was above 4500rpm the whole time, thus in high boost mode). I would have basically been in peak power/torque the whole time. I'd guess that any Gts-t with full exhaust, fmic and boost (10-12psi) should be able to keep up with a new Monaro. Once I get my R33 back (460hp turbo, fmic, wolf3dv4, fuel pump, pod with cai, 3inch from turbo etc...) I will annihilate the Monaro without a doubt. Skylines eat Monaros for breakfast. Just dump a little money into it and you'll nail them for sure.

Matt will be doing my R33 Gts-t with a Wolf3Dv4 hopefully next week (if my new turbo gets installed in time) so yeh, the performance workshop recommended him...

I actually prefer the S1 wing over the S2. More of a sleek stealthy look Should be easier to replace the stearing wheel on an S1 too because you don't have to fuss about with an airbag (assuming it's in the wheel).