Dee 33

Yeh I was going to say check the boost. Might want to leave it to the pros though. Send it to someone who's probably going to be able to take a quick look at it then fix it. Edit: Clutch could be another if the revs seem fine but the car pulls nowhere.

Some guy asked me how much boost I run. I said 16psi. He said "that's not much ey, wrx's run 14 stock". I couldn't be f**ed explaining that my turbo was probably close to twice the size. Also another mate buying an n/a Supra and saying he's going to single turbo it later on with a T88 not realising that such a turbo will require a crapload of work on the engine to support it. But I agree that it's all about learning. I've said plenty of stupid crap in the past about cars but you live and you learn. The best way of learning for me was using forums, then actually buying a car and having the mods done while I owned rather than buying a modded one. I can now tell you exactly what needs to be done to get 250rwkw (or so) in an R33 Gts-t whereas beforehand I had no clue. My advice is to share your knowledge with the less knowledgeable. Someone somewhere along the line probably told you what you know, so pass the info on when you can

First turbo car. 180awkw WRX: I thought this thing was the ultimate machine in the universe being it was the first turbo I'd ever been in or in fact, been near. I was however extremely drunk at the time with my crazy brother driving. CA18det 180sx auto: Meh. 2005 Monaro: Nice nice nice nice nice. Haven't been in it since my car was modified though so I can't compare. Sounded so sweet though. Very good brakes. Stock S15: Much better low end torque than the R33. Very linear power curve. Can't really feel boost snap on.

If it's 2.4 tonne then I don't know how the RB25 will handle or even the RB26. If you must go this route go the 2jz-gte.

R33 Gtst vs S15 Top speed stability vs lighter and zipper. Good engine sounds vs not so good. Older vs newer. Cheaper vs More expensive. They're generally the considerations.

I started with them, 22 rating 3 $1600. Dropped down this year to 23, rating 2, $1100. So far I have been very happy. I live in Brisbane. Excess is insane though and I'm at the limit of my agreed value. Engine mods can't raise the value of the car.

Agree with everyone else. Finish that exhaust first (front/dump/hi flow cat) then think about getting cooler/boost/avcr all at the same time to keep everything running well. 300hpatw? Tell him he's dreaming... That's about 220rwkw. Edit: I think I'm having dejavu. I swear I've seen this thread before...

Hmm clutch is a good idea. As mentioned for launching, but also for changing gears hard. You can keep the throttle to the floor and just jam that cluth in, change gears, and let it back out without having your car bounce off the rev limiter during the change.

Hmmm very tough one. I have a 240rwkw Gts-t but I wouldn't swap it for an R32 GTR mainly because I know my car well and have had all the mods done since I've owned it. I know where it's strong, where it's weak, what might need replacing next etc. And everyone knows that selling a modded car is the best way to lose money. While going to a 32 GTR is a performance upgrade, it's an age/condition downgrade. I'd go to a 33 GTR for sure, but not a 32.

Make sure there is sufficient oil in the gearbox and that the car is warmed up. Oil in the box makes a HUGE difference as most people will notice as the gears get easier as the car warms up.

With an engineers certificate you will still get defects, however you'll be able to fend them off in court.

Shit that's a lot of power... and at 3000rpm on stock turbo... Stock for stock it should be close to even if the Gts-t is in good condition. Modded, goodbye R33. Isn't the stock XR6t turbo a 600hp unit?

Stock boost for you will be 6psi with boost jumping up to 8psi at 4500rpm (when the solenoid is set to open). That's exactly what I was running (aftermarket boost guage readings) with just a catback exhaust. If you want a little more power before 4500rpm there's a thread here somewhere which shows you how to ground the solenoid permanently so it runs the higher setting (8psi) right from the start. I did this before I got my mods and it made a nice difference

I beleive with no form of boost control your cars boost will gradually rise as the revs go up. When I got all my mods done, one of which included a bleed valve, I noticed that the car would boost up to about 9psi and then gradually creep to 14psi once I hit about 7000rpm. I later discovered that the reason this was happening was that the workshop (for some reason or another) had decided to leave the bleed valve completely closed which left me with no boost controlling device and only the wastegate (internal) to work things out. If you installed a bleed valve, you would be able to get that boost to jump up to 10psi (or more) by 2500rpm. The fact you have no solenoid is my guess as to why this is happening.

R33 Gts-t's are in general, 8-10k less than as S15. Different price league so if you're tossing up between the two, why not save thousands and get the Gts-t. Stock for stock, they will be about the same performance. Spend some of those thousands you saved on the R33 and you'll leave the S15 for dead.

High boost + a cooler gives a crapload of air that has to be released through the bov so if you're running a pod filter it's going to be noisy regardless, like mine. Open or closed for me is just a different sound... it's in no way silent.

Larger pump and Malpassi here, pushing 240rwkw through standard injectors. Can't safely run more than 16psi though. My turbo wants more damnit What's the point of a 460hp turbo if the car can't pump enough fuel to use the turbos potential? Money is the prob at the moment...

Teh GTR can nevah loose... Try 10 years, not 4

Not sure about standard but with 240rwkw my car pulls very hard in 5th and I have no doubt it would hit 7000rpm in 5th with ease. I never went that fast when it was stock though so no idea. It still pulled pretty well in 5th though.

A 600hp turbo on an RB20 will be laggy. Honestly, how could it not?

Under 8 second quarters on a street legal car with only 10k of mods... Why are we bothering with this discussion?

If he wants at auto non-turbo R33 then I don't see the problem. He'll probably end up saving a little on maintenance (tires, turbo parts etc) and he clearly doesn't have an interest in going fast. He wants a car to look at and R33's are hot (in my opinion) so why shouldn't he get one? Besides, a non turbo auto will be the cheapest of the lot cause no-one wants em

A modified 180sx is going to cost a lot more in maintenance than a stock R33. My mate paid 9.5k for a stock 180sx (CA18det Auto) 2 years ago and has since paid about 7k in maintenance. He was pretty unlucky. I paid 17.5k about a year ago for my R33. We have spent about the same money and I have an infinately better car than him. This excludes my 10k in mods but the point is, cheaper cars aren't necessarily cheaper.

Although if you'd prefer to just spend $30k and leave it at that, a modded R33 will chop the absolute crap out of the S15. Both are great cars but they are in different price brackets. It all depends on how much you're happy spending.

^^^ What tha? What did they do? I'd like to know so I avoid letting this happen myself...