jimBNR32

I do have a tomei baffle and head restrictor too. Edit:, surely have an extended sump also for 9ltr? Just trying to work out what I can get away with.

Cheers for quick replies. Why do you have 9l now?? Was there a reason you decided to go for an extended sump instead of overfilling? Piggaz, So middle of the hump when looking at the hash side?

Where does 6ltrs show on the dipstick when the engine is cold (overnight)?

anyone?

?? whats to question? i run a stock sized SUMP, and an uprated JUN oil PUMP (not sure if you read it as stock pump and jun pump?) anyone care to let me know how there doing running a bit more oil with your setups?

just found this thread. i noticed a bit of pressure drop especially in 1st/2nd, nothing alarming, but thought it odd. those that have contributed to this thread a while back, how are you guys getting on with filling it to where you have?? on a stone cold engine, where is your oil level on the dipstick? on a warm engine, say after 10-15mins after shut down, where does it sit? im on a stock sump, jun pump, tomei baffle and head restrictor, i filled to just above the H. but going by this thread, seems it may want to be closer to the hump than that. ill put an extra 0.5ltr in and see what happens, cant harm anything a little extra oil on a pump like the jun. ?

Another update. I measured fuel pressure at idle and with vac line disconnected (I assume you just block the vac line with a bolt and leave the fpr open to atmosphere? Least that's what I assume it ment). Anyway, had cold idle 3.6bar, 3.8bar with line disconnected Decide to fit a new fuel filter, supposedly oem filter, but did look a little different. Anyway swapped that in, and got 3.4bar cold idle, 3.6bar with line disconnected. I didn't measure fuel pressure at warm idle, ran out of time/daylight. Do seem like high numbers? But perhaps my fuel pressure gauge is off slightly? (mechanical one). I thought was sorted after a 15minite drive, it idled fine, late 14afrs, dip to 15s but did go back to 14s, happy days I thought. I drove the car for a further 30-45minites. And let it idle again and it did its usual thing, afrs started to dip into the 16s again and could here is missing slightly, dam! Car still cruises, boosts great, is purely an idle issue. I noticed my tps voltages on commander. Still 0.39v with foot off throttle, around 3.9 at wot, that did drop on boost into the 3.6/3.7s high in the revs. Fuel pump voltages, cold idle, 13.6vs. Warm idle 13.4v, with headlights on 13.3v Voltages at battery, cold idle, 14.3v, headlights on 14.2v No idea what this really tells anyone, but it great to get some feedback again. Thanks

Thanks for all the reply by the way.

Yep I have hard wired the pump. Nismo pump intank 30a relay, switched via the oem live pump wire. I have a feeling could either be afms or injectors. Before mapping I ran on pfc, that was rev limited for running in period, pump was hard wired. So really all I swapped in was afms and injectors at dyno. I've been reading oem fpr only good for oem levels. I'll check pressure anyway and swap filter while that fuel line is off.

Is this voltage difference ok tho?? Be interested to know what other Nismo afm equiped cars see? I realise now the car is mapped for how these particular afms behave. Good or bad. But i think on hot idle, something isn't right. Now I need to work out where it is a part issue, or map issue. I do have a stock ecu/injectors/afms to pop back on. Perhaps I need to swap back just to rule out whether it's the nismo afms I guess! Annoying. I may check my fuel pressure first and swap in a new fuel filter, see if that helps. I heard sometimes oem fpr does t like an uprated pump, this true?

Ok update from today, new battery in. The car seems to have no issues above 1.5k rpm. Boost, cruise, everything's fine. Cold idle perfectly fine, 13s afr. No missing. (probably because of high idle). Warm idling, late 14afs for 10secs its ok. But a blip and you will feel a slight miss. Soon as its sitting for more than this time, afrs start to get leaner and leaner up to 16.5 (maybe even higher but id rather it not. When i give it a blip afrs rise, but i can feel it missing up until 2k rpm ish. I opened up afms, resoldered and cleaned them, made no difference. Not sure if related, but i noticed on commander that afm1 reads lower if on the move with no throttle (coasting), it reads 0.2-0.5v whereas afm2 read 1.2v roughly. No ill effects. Soon as I touch the throttle, the voltages level out to each other. If anything, afm1 voltage rises quicker once coming on boost and overtakes the afm2 voltage readings slightly. I swapped around afms and got the same voltage results on afm1 and afm2 on commander. So perhaps its not the afms that are dieing? Warm idle tho afm voltages both at afm1 0.6, afm2 0.8v. So similar. I can't be sure if the low voltage on afm1 is down to mapping when coasting (no throttle)? Any reason why tuner would do this if it is mapping? Any ideas here folks? I didn't have this issue on stock afms and 440s. Is there any way I can test out and boost on stock afms without a remap? can i simply select a different afm in the commander? Is this ok to do? If so, what option am I picking? Hope someones got some ideas?

thanks for the reply. i opened up the nismo afms, they look perfectly fine to me (the 4 contacts), i may resolder them anyway while its open, we'll see. yeh i was going to swap them around and see how they performed (as i read ecu takes an average of the readings anyway so should work which ever way round you put them). im going to resistance test my afm wiring (assuming i can trace the wires) just to be sure. got me a copy of the ecu pinouts so this should help also. ill take one step at a time.

Thanks for reply. thought id update I have a funny feeling the 'loosing 0.5v' when headlights on and the leaning at idle may not be linked together. I didn't get a chance to start the car today, but I did jump in it, turned ignition to on, straight to sensor check on commander and noticed the no2 (top) afm was reading a little lower than no1, left it on for another 10secs and no2 dropped down into the 0.03v range and went black on commander! may explain why its fine for a moment, then after time the afrs went leaner and leaner??? Clearly an afm/wiring issue and would explain the missing and leaning out at idle after the drive? I swapped afms around, and they appeared to be similar in voltage around 0.1v and no sensor error. Odd I thought, which would suggest nothing's wrong and it just needed a wiggle or clipping/unclipping to sort it out. Back to there original layout and again no2 dropped voltage! Odd! I swapped in a stock afm and it held its voltage fine on no2. So not entirely sure if I should be looking at wiring to the no2 plug or the actual afm? The 4 wires to afm, what does each one do so I can follow it along the harness? I may pop open both afms anyway and resolder? Or asking for trouble with expensive Nismo afms? I checked my tps voltage too on commander, and showed 0.39v and I think 3.98v at wot, engine off. Ok readings? Not sure how accurate the readings are given the weak battery, which I had to charge up again. But interesting none the less.

i do believe i have experienced the cruise issue before tho, once or twice. it does freak you out thats for sure. i just thought that maybe those may have experience something similar to myself also that could potentially be related? it generally doesnt have a problem starting in the morning, but leaving it a week it struggles, sometimes catchs, other times needs a recharge. obviously battery needs changing, but the issues ive experienced cant be down to battery as the alt brings the voltage up when running. i just think it odd why the powerFC would see 0.7v of difference to the battery when running. do these numbers ring a bell to anyone running a powerFC? my issue has to be afm or ignition related im sure. to lean the car out seems odd.

hi folks, very interesting topic holly thread revival! anyway, im not sure if my car issues 100% replicate what you guys are experiencing, but similar in nature! be grateful for some advice? spec, forged r32 gtr, nismo afms, stock ignition, bkr7e (0.8mm), powerFC, nismo fuel pump (wired off battery), sard 700s, about the only important things werth mentioning. symptoms; missing at idle after car is warm, if i sit at idle, i notice on my commander unit that the battery voltage drops slightly, starting at 13.7v, and drops gradually by like 0.3vs and i notice my afrs getting leaner and leaner. quick rev brings voltage up and in turn afrs. but back to idle again is very lean, 16 a/f s, 17s then off the chart. when i put my headlights on, commander shows very low 12.9-13.0v and my afrs go mental lean and it stalls before this i had been driving the car fine, boosting well, soon as i parked up, putting car in the garage, this happened. any ideas?? only things ive checked is battery, which is 11.8v non running, but when car started shows 14.2v. (so alt ok? ) commander generally shows about 0.7v less than what the battery is seeing. definatly feels to me like the fuel pump is loosing power (gradually got less loud, especially when i put my headlights on), this im guessing ment less power to fuel pump (tho ive yet to check voltage at pump), and in turn less fuel pressure? causing leaning out and stalling?? initally i was looking to find out why the car died when i put the headlights on, now i know its because im loosing 0.5v instantly at the commander and it must be dropping the fueling??? had no missing before and during the drive! on cold start its fine, im guessing because revs are 1200-1400rpm at this point and giving the car plenty of voltage. should the pfc be seeing more than 13.3-13.5ish volts at warm idle?? it seems odd to me to be reading a good 0.7v less than when measuring voltage at the battery with a multimeter? where to start given the info above??? thanks

hi newbie here from UK r32 gtr owner. could someone tell me what do you do with the old fuel pump plug?? i realise i can either cut for 12v before the plug, or fit a male spade fitting inside the plug on the 12v side to trigger the relay. what do you do with the plugs negative feed?? simply cover it up with tape?? or does this still need to go to ground also?? (so in total, 3 wires to ground, plug/relay/pump) thanks ps, anyone confirm the wire colours for the + and - on the plug on a r32 gtr