broke pin on camshaft and the actual rod out of the CAS broke in half as well !
ive got two ~1.5mm washers on there now, but becareful when pulling it out that the washers dont fall in the bottom timing belt casing... done that too...
learnt the hard way
thats what i thought as well....
no specs sheet except for table on what other cams are available, like 260, 8.80mm lift ... however if you want to use those you have to go to solid lifters...
They set me back about $900.
And they are a straight bolt on, no shiming required...
Set up =
Power FC, HKS 2535, R32 GTR Cooler, Bosch 910 , RX7 S5 inj, Q45 AFM, Std manifolds, Std Motor with 170 000 Km...
Tried running @ 21 psi but there was very little increase in power opted for safer 18 psi
Finally after playing around with RB26 cams which i couldnt get to work, i installed the Poncams with good results.
Power went from 207 to 221kw both @ 18psi.
There is sooo much more top end its unreal, it just hits redline so much quicker, this is obvious in the graphs, where before power would drop quite dramatically it now holds a lot longer.
4500 165 172
4700 176 181
4900 183 189
5100 190 197
5300 196 207
5500 204 216
5700 207 220
5900 204 219
6100 201 217
6300 200 214
6500 192 210
Average Power = 192.5 203.8
If the first run continued to 7000rpm you would see an even bigger difference.
At first i was a bit dissapointed with the max power, but just lookin at how much more top end its gained im stoked.
Its off to the creek in a month or so ....
thats funny...
shouldnt matter too much if you dont feel its lost power....
I like Problem #1 tho
1st. Dyno = Unique
2nd Dyno = DAT
my 5 cents
ps. they both look like Shoot Out mode
After pulling everything off, tightening the timming belt and seeing that the belt lined up perfectly as it did when it came off, i soon realised it was this:
Off to the Dyno tomorrow !!
It only matches up to the marks on the belt on installation, after the motor has turned it prolly doesnt return to that position for another 345235 turns....
no back plate as in pic
thats where i F%^$ up cos i didnt turn the motor, only did the tensioner up....
I drove it for about an hour and it was fine, until one big squirt in 2nd to 7000rpm...
is there a way of knowing if i line the crank pulley to TDC without the back cam gear plate?
Installed the Poncams on the weekend.. all went in fairly smooth.
Took it for a good 1hr drive and on the way back after reving to 7000 rpm in 2nd as we came to a traffic lightm, car stalled and would not idle anymore...
At first i thought a cooler pipe popped off but after close inspection its all in correctly.
Question is what is wrong with it?
Symptoms:
Car starts after having to tap accelerator but does not idle.
Will hold revs above 2000rpm if accelerator held but any lower and it stalls
Sounds as if its under a load under 2000rpm
Drives ok above 2000rpm
Timing is ~ 30deg at around 1600rpm.
Tried moving CAS without any improvement...
Timming Belt seems a little loose, moving belt up & down between the cam gear and the tensioner theres about 1cm play.
Could it have skipped a tooth???
This legislation is soo pathetic !!
Anyone in pretty much any car can speed... it may just take a little longer...
how is it that 350Z and many others are not there but a 3 Cyl 990cc Charade is???
i saw the same thing on the manual... kinda weird.
mine will be going in next w.end, qik qustion tho, do ur cams look black finish around the lobes?
just found it strange how the OEM cams are machined to a shiny finish both around the lobes and around the brackets, but the Poncams are only machined to that finish around the brackets.????