GTAHH

You will need to get off the crank pulley, i've always used a pulley puller and just be gentle getting it off The whole timing belt comes off and you can check its condition/replace it. Make sure you have all the alignment marks (crank and cams) aligned before reassembly with the timing belt. Adjust the tension, and tighten the belt tensioner nuts to specific torque (around 50nm from memory, crank pulley (150nm). There is plently of threads, try searching for timing belt replacements, you need to do everything involved with changing the timing belt. Oh and make sure you reseal the water pump very well to the block, water leaks through smaller holes than oil and you don't want it to leak once it's all back together. Cheers

G'day, Have for sale for a Apache Warrior Clubman Go-kart, race ready (as of last year, if the rules haven't changed). Kart comes with side, front and rear pods (brand new), a box of parts and goodies (oils etc), competition racing pipe, 15 lap old MG Red racing slicks, kart trolley, new chain, new spark plug, new brake pads and new carbie kit all installed already. Kart was originally purchased to start getting into karting/racing but I am now starting my policing career that requires a fair bit of uni fee's which need to be paid so unlucky for me all the toys need to go Kart has been tuned by my local karting shop (Precision Motorsport at Tuggerah) and is actually pretty quick for an older model kart. I bought this kart second hand, since then prepared the kart for racing (new pipe, new chain, new carbie kit, spark plug, new pods, new slicks, new pads) but has only been used for one practice session on Newcastle track and a few trips around the block (ooops). The motor is the competition motor of Clubman series which is Yamaha KT100S engine (15hp 2 stroke). The motor is very strong making plently of power, has a strong power band which is felt when you get in the kart for the first time starts first time everytime even after long break in between running I have always transported this kart in the back of my hatch pulsar as it only just fits, so it will need a trailer is these Clubman karts are fairly large. $1200, located on the Central Coast. Have been away for most of this year so I'm assuming the rukles have not been changed to begin racing. Any questions/queries feel free to PM. Will get picss in the next few days and post them up. Cheers

Yeah mate, i've done a few before but never actually looked. I pressume it's becuase of the different number of teeth so it should be sweet

G'day, one question and yes i've ran a search. At the moment i'm a little confused so I apologise if this is a newb question I have changed the water pump, marked the timing belt, and put it back on correctly. But the thing is, when I turn the engine over manually (tensioning it) the marks are moving and not lining up with the cam gears? I.e One full rev the marks would have moved say 2-3 teeth along the cam gears, and it is like this on both the intake and exhaust. Is this normal? I can't remember if it is but I would think it's not. Cheers!

The question is what were the defects for? And when did they have to be cleared? He may just get a larger fine

Pics of suspension? What's the condition of them? No leaks? Cheers

Where is it made? And I thought there was a difference with r33 and r32 pipes? Cheers

Mirrored tint is illegal. Unfortunatley the rear quarter window darker than 35% is illegal, but rarely will you get pulled up for it

Try cleaning all the basic sensor's. AFM, AAC, throttle body etc

Yeah mine was strange it started doing it slightly, then gets worse every time I drive it now it's at the stage where it's alomst breaking down

Yeah thanks mate, fuel filter was changed and whole fuel system was flushed out and a new tank was put it, so at least I know it's not that. Yeah will give the AFM a better clean this time, but it was crystal clean last time was cleaned only 2 months ago. Will check the temp sender again I'm sure some other poor bugger skyline owner has had this before Cheers

G'day, My skyline is running terrible, stalling and struggling to restart and this ones has got me stumped. The car seems to have a rev limiter of 2500? (AFM?) it really struggles to climb revs, and many times will stall and not restart. The strangest thing is the car will run perfect for the first 5 mins then start bunnyhopping all over the place like its running out of fuel. Give it a few mm of throttle and it dies in the arse and bunnyhops. Any help is great the only thing left is the AFM, so how can I test it? Cheers heaps

Cheers all, wasn't sure as you all seem to own 33's

Does the EL sensor work or not? Who has actually installed the sensor and it is working? I need an O2 sensor I have a RB20DET, and in desperate need of a sensor. The direct fit EL OX-207 is the go?

Yeah I have a cable I made up, which works for the previous to pulsars i've owned, but it will not connect with the ECU in the skyline, and that's trying with 2 different ECU's. One from my car and one from a '92 model. I've checked that the diagnostics connector is actually connected to the ECU pins which it is but still no luck with the consult. So even if it runs extremely rich on cold start, that would mean that it can't be the o2 sensor? This ones got me stumped

Yeah, when I disconnected the hose I plugged it up and it would run the same. With it not plugged up it would run better and not blow as much smoke. It only seems to blow the smoke at idle and when revving down it belches out a bit. The belt was changed when the new motor went it, but no haven't checked timing Anyone know if the ECU even reads the O2 sesnor at idle? Cheers

Anyone?

Fuel filter? Check hoses for leaks?

G'day, I have recently swapped the engine (to another silvertop RB20) in my 32 GTST. I changed all the sensors (except knocks) from my old engine to the new, to avoid troubles like this. Now the old engine cracked a piston and was blowing obviously alot of smoke. The car is running, and was running perfectly besides a few idle probs, but recnetly the car is running so rich that it will foul up the plugs and leave a pile of soot behind it. I have tested everything besides the AFM and O2, and can't connect consult, is there any way to test them without the car running? I checked for vaccum leaks etc to no avail. When I disconnect the MAP (MAF?) sensor on the firewall the car runs much better and blows no black smoke, so I swapped it with a working sensor and it doesn't make any difference it still runs terrible. When I disconnect the hose running to the idle valve it runs perfectly and blows no smoke, so this makes me think there might be a leak or something? I've also tested using two different idle/aac valves. I'm unable to take the car anywhere either as it is struggling to run Thanks in advance, Cheers

Yeah mate get it fixed they can make a mess, you might be lucky and it will only rip up your radiator rather then the bonnet

Tighten it more, the belt may be the wrong type. You never know

Make sure they are tight. They may be slightly loose that when it's cold they will slip.

Pm sent

After a radiator for R32 GTST. Located Central Coast NSW but willing to travel Any help is great. Cheers

PM sent for ECU