GTAHH

Also I need a good cond steering wheel for a type-m '89. Price and pics if available Cheers!

double post

I never really thrash it after resetting the computer. Usually I will let it run at around town speed and then full it a few full throttle runs to near redline (6kish). Generally it runs pretty happy after that

Something like this, as silly as it sounds can be linked to you needing a new fuel filter. It will cause the car to seem to stall and not rev with the throttle open a little, then start to accelerate. It feels as though you don't have the throttle open at all, it just waits, then goes.

Anyone know if the head would even need to come off if it is valve problem? And if I was to put a vrs kit through it? Could save me some money/time Cheers!

Yes. Don't have the link but there is Cheers

Can I re-use the head bolts? And where do I look for a standard head gasket? Besides nissan ofcourse

Also would someone know when the head is removed will I need new head bolts? I guess it would be better for new head bolts to go in but i'm abit short on the $$$ at the moment. Can they be re-used? The manual doesn't mention new bolts

Thanks champ I thought that's how I could do it. Whats a good way to get the #3 cyl to TDC with the motor still in the car? Also how would you be able to determine the exhaust valve is leaking with the full exhaust on? Other ways? Cheers again

G'day lads, I'll cut to the chase, I bought a really cheap R32 with an RB20 that is only running on 5 cylinders. I have done a compression test and all cylinders are around 127-130 psi, which I think is pretty good? Except for cylinder #3. It has 0 psi compression. And yes I mean 0 I was wondering how I can determine whether it is top or bottom end problem? I am going to embark on taking the head off as I have a feeling that a valve is not closing correctly on that cylinder, if this is the case it should be a fairly easy job. But if I was to rip the head off with the engine still in the car, than it could get a bit messy. Is there a quick way of trying to work out whether the piston is cracked/rings gone without removing any parts? I have tried the squirting oil into the cylinder and doing the compression to no avail. As it has no compression anyway. Cheers

I'd personally grab some huge multi grips and squeeze the hell out of it. Both hands and it should be able to come undone if you use enough clamping force.

As title says I am after a AAC valve for an RB20. I seem to have lost the spring in mine and don't want to go to nissan as I doubt I can get just the spring Cheers lads

Dammit, got my hopes up buggers

Nice, written off? Good speed? Pics?

I got the same thing so I pressumed it had something to do with HICAS

Oh and when I block the hose going to the AAC valve it runs like crap and stalls? This normal? Each time I take the AAC assembly off and re-assemble it, it does something different, sometimes idles higher, sometimes doesn't surge. Cheers!

I've wound it all the way in and it seems to drop idle by around 300rev's, so its around 1500 and it doesn't seem to be doing the surging as much anymore it's just got a 1500+ rpm idle very strange. It still does the surging but not as often I took off the hose going to the reg valve (while running), and the idle settles down to just above 1000, when I block the part of the T-piece going to the reg valve(where the hoses separate to go to the aac and the reg valve) the revs increase. So i.e with the engine running and with the hose to the reg valve not connected and not blocked it runs a lower idle around 1000. If I block it, than it runs a higher idle. So that means the reg valve is stuck open?

Yeah champ just left it disconnected for over 24hrs to test if that might fix it. Will try and get into it tomorrow hopefully with good news. I will definatley try winding in the idle screw if it still continues before I try all the other steps. Hopefully comes good Cheers again

The little plunger thingo inside it? Noooo

Cheers lads, I just find it abit strange that it only did it after I reconnected the AAC valve after I took it apart and cleaned it. Ill give them a try so I don't have a 1000-2000rpm idle Cheers

Anyone? Any advice is good

That just sucks, but it's a good reminder for blokes like me who have just got a car recently imported car. I wonder how much the importer will be up for.... What places will sell a timing belt for RB20? Easy to check condition of belt? Take cover off? I'd be relieved to a degree that it happened when under warranty

Yeah i'm sure 1 kg/cm2 is the same as 1 bar. So 0.7 kg/cm2 is 0.7 bar. Or they are very close

My car has a cat back exhaust and runs 10psi as stock, I have a greddy boost gauge because the dash one lies and plays up all the time. But when it's working the greddy says 0.7bar and the dash boost says +7. So don't know whats going on there. I thought that R32 runs 10pound stock?

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