the_tonkau

Sounds like your onto it! well done. Its the lifters again!

Baby on the way so all the spares have to go! Tein Coilovers-Set of fronts, height adjustable with pillow tops. Work well. GC. STUPID CHEAP! $199 No offers! [email protected] Melb Pickup Avail SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD Thanks

Both R33 GTR and GtsT use the same radiator. Will pickup in Melb. Cheers

Quick note. If it's got no comp and its not firing on that cylinder, the unburnt fuel might wash the bore and make running in (the rings) a problem!

Keep in mind it could be lots of things ie bent valves etc....but in my case.........-I just finished a rebuild and had a similar problem. No comp on 4 when we fired it up the first time, after a series of tests/checks I did a leak down test....I could hear the air hissing from my exhaust.......so my ex valves were stuck open. aha. No probs you say, threw 2 new ones in and tried again....oh oh, now no comp on 1 and 5......Should have put a whole set in when I had the cams out. Anyway, chucked a new set in and all is well. You may well have a bleeding problem but I am told they are unserviceable so you could be taking your chances replacing only some of them like I did. Bad news is......Nissan charge around $100 each!! Good news is I got a set for less than half that and still might be able to get another set if you need them. Drop me a PM if it gets to that! Good luck Bud.

Anyone got anything decent??

Brand new water pump broke and threw the fan into the radiator....bugger. [email protected]

I have the XR6 turbo on my 25/30 but slightly changed. The turbine Housing is 0.82a/r and the new Compressor Housing is a 0.60a/r. We have yet to run the new engine in properly and the tune is super soft but even so it comes on extremely early and seems to be a great match for the 3litre! After we run it in properly I will post details and dyno reports in the lists

Pm Sent!

..........Fairly typical commments from forums users...yes.....mmmmm..... sounds like you should seek nourishment from a penis. Waaaaah As usual SK and a few others are trying to keep it useful. Thanks to all who had constuctive input. All parties agreeing to disagree. Custom pistons going in 3 weeks and oil gallery issues being seen to while in bits! Not giving in and looking forward to a 3 litre hybrid that doesn't rattle or spew oil out of the breathers! Cheers

OK lad's, sorry for the delay. I have confirmed the piston to bore clearences. 4 thou and 1 10th as it was assembled and after running it in it was pulled down and was measured at 4 thou and 7 10ths. I initially said 7 thou instead of 4thou and "7 tenths" , my mistake . A stated early in this thread the engine builders work was never at doubt and that's why I said both they, and the acl where happy with those tolerences. We have decided to rebuild it with custom slugs with a comp of 8.5:1. 4 weeks away but worth the wait I'm sure!

................

qqqq

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

wot the?

zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Warning!!! ACL PRODUCT WARNING. Were supplied new race series forged ACL pistons, rings and bearings for an rb30/25 hybrid. Engine built buy a reputable engine builder and run in by ex Perkins engineering mechanic/tuner. Rattled from new and finally pulled it down at 2000Klms to discover massive wear on the drive side of the bore. Piston to bore clearances measured at 7 tho and within spec. ACL denied refund/replacement and rolled out these excuses in this order. 1. Detonation (cleared after hardness test) 2. Foreign substance in bore (brand new engine run in on dyno with standard air box and new filter) Cleared after excuse number three. 3. Over boosting causing rings to break down and cause abrasion on bore. (Stat decs signed by engine tuners stating run in boost set to max of 14psi). ACL now tell me that there FORGED race series pistons are only rated for 10PSI. This engine has a comp of 8.2:1. Standard engine runs 9:1 with cast factory pistons at around 9psi...do the math. Currently taking legal action. Any questions regarding this "race designed product" PLEASE contact me @ [email protected] .This is not a rant, but an opportunity for other people to learn from my experience.

And then she said..."now we can all get some sleep!" ha

Warning!!! ACL PRODUCT WARNING. Were supplied new race series forged ACL pistons, rings and bearings for an rb30/25 hybrid. Engine built buy a reputable engine builder and run in by ex Perkins engineering mechanic/tuner. Rattled from new and pulled down at 2000Klms to discover massive wear on the drive side of the bore. Piston to bore clearances measured at 7 tho and within spec. ACL denied refund/replacement and rolled out these excuses in this order. 1. Detonation (cleared after hardness test) 2. Foreign substance in bore (brand new engine run in on dyno with standard air box and new filter) Cleared after excuse number three. 3. Over boosting causing rings to break down and cause abrasion on bore. (Stat decs signed by engine tuners engine stating run in boost set to max of 14psi). ACL now tell me that there FORGED race series pistons are only rated for 10PSI. This engine has a comp of 8.2:1. Standard engine runs 9:1 with cast factory pistons at around 9psi...do the math. Currently taking legal action. Any questions regarding this "race designed product" PLEASE contact me @ [email protected] .This is not a rant, but an opportunity for other people to learn from experience.

Mmmmmm, the chap who built the long motor should be on the ball with the cam timing, but its good idea and I might revisit that line of thought. I have yet to have the cams out to check the hydraulic lifters to see if they are ok. Need more time....... BBQ, Are you suggesting colder plugs will help the "pinging problem" or the missing problem after 20psi? Thanks for the input gentleman.

standard base timing and the usual ngk BCPR6E copper plugs closed right up to handle the boost! idle is average but it doesn't start missing until you get over 20psi.

Intake temp... interesting not thought of that. We have always used the same dyno and the same cooling fans. The only thing that has changed since the rebuild is the 3-litre block and the new turbo (mounted further from the exhaust manifold with a spacer). In the old set-up we ran up to 20psi through a t04e and the 2.5l engine to get 250rwkw with good intake temps. The fmic is massive although I have yet to set-up a water spray, the dyno does use an intake temp sensor which sits in front of the filter and seems to be working ok. I am leaning towards the noisy head setting off the sensors. I am going to do the valve clearances and change the knock sensor and see what we get. Feel free to keep the ideas’s flowing gentleman, will post the outcome for those interested. cheers

yeah, had a custom front cover made by kyp @ atp , didn't want to change my all intake piping from 3" to 4".

Specs-r33s1-25det head on s1 rb30 block, 8.3-1 comp/forged, std cams, vct enabled, rx7 550cc inj, halbro @ 40psi, PFC. GT35 60ar .82- After 2000klms running in we attempted a decent power tune. It started pinging @ only 230kw atw. taking out heaps of timing and adding WAY too much fuel and still seems to detonate. The head is a little noisy, when using the "knock box" on the dyno you can pick it up. The head was only crack and pressure tested when the bottom end rebuilt. Has anyone heard of a faulty knock sensor? Is my head setting off the knock sensors? After another attempt of tuning on a fresh tank of fuel(mobil 98) it seems to have gotten worse!!! We are down to 190 kw atw to stop the pinging. Its like something is changing as we go.... very weird...Any ideas gentleman?

Good explanation S4! RB30, Um-you might want to do some more research. Maybe start with www.calaisturbo.com.au and find out the difference between S1 and S2 blocks! As SK has already commented above, these engines seem to pump LOTS of oil into the head and really benefit from good oil drainage, and even extra drainage systems for performance engines. I would think blocking off a MASSIVE source of drainage would not help things. Those like me who have done all there tuning on a dyno may not find out until road testing that their cylinder heads are full of lots of nice slippery oil but their sumps are nearly drained!. There are no G-forces on a dyno to simulate acceleration and braking so you may not know if your sump is nearly empty until you do a sustained high rpm run and do some heavy braking…that’s when I knew I had this issue. Lets keep the sharing of info going guys! Good work.