Doctor 30

Lambo's, Ferrari's and Porches are often between 1400kg and 1700kg and they are definitely sports cars. The 350z track is definitely a sports car and it weighs in at ~1450kg. I think the GTS-R is lighter than that. I would class an RS500 escort/sierra as a sports car. They were total animals and were uninsurable in the UK.

Just read up on the GTS-R, that has to be a sports car, if a car has been messed around with that much by the factory I don't know how it could just be a GT.

My terminology was wrong then, I meant the pressure build up that happens when you shut the throttle body and the turbo keeps pushing against it like when you change gears.

and your gearbox ratios.....

Tell me what your diff ratio is and we'll call it even

No, the turbo I got because my stock one shat itself is good for at least 20psi on a 2ltr according to the turbo engineering guy in Thomastown (no ceramic wheel) and at 16psi the injectors have got enough to run very rich. I have a link hand held controller that tells me that they are still not at their full duty cycle. I have a supra IC which does plently enough for cooling given the temps recorded on the dyno with the new turbo running higher pressure than the stock one which started to heat up at over 12psi and lose power. On the dyno the current one didn't lose power at 16psi. To give you an indication of the size of the turbo, the outlet pipe from the turbo is about 12mm bigger in diameter than the stock one (the original fits inside the new.) What if your car didn't come with an FJ20? Then you'd be up for the purchase price of that too. 7000 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 112kmh 7000 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 118kmh 7500 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 120kmh 7500 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 126kmh Depending on my diff ratio it could have been either of these, don't know what the HR30 coupe final drive is but I know it is less than 4:1 . It all happened pretty quickly and I was lookin more at the boost . The speedo may be inaccurate or it may have bounced up to 120kmh. I normally start to go for third at 6000 which I am normally at around 6200-6300 before it happens (if I'm in the mood to wind her out) What does causes boost spikes then? Can anyone tell me what my diff ratio is for sure (assuming it is standard)

posted answer on your other request

I had a faulty connector that sits above the brake booster. It comes off the fuse box. Mine kept cutting out an I thought it was the fuel pump, fuse, relay or computer. It is a 9 pin (or is it six pin?) I have it sitting partially pulled apart to get it to work.

Yeah but I had to find out whether the BOV was bleeding the boost or if it was the wastegate or if I had a leak somewhere. Found out that I needed to bleed more boost and that the BOV was set too high. Adjusted both and now she spools to 14.5psi and builds to 16 psi. Power is now officially insane. (Well for me it is) Remember that the ECU stops the motor if it hits 19psi and the BOV was working. I backed off the throttle gently rather than snapping the throttle off so it didn't do a 30psi spike. How else can you test these things?? Any way my point being that this 2500 set up including engine is probably the cheapest way to make these things go seriously quick.

On the RB20DET ECCS I disconnected the waste gate tonight to see what the engine would boost to. The engine cut out when it hit 19 psi (That was the max the ECU is set to) It went fairly smartly up to 7000 rpm in second gear (120kmh before the boost limiter interfered) the BOV Is set way too high. Got to love the RB20DET....

I thought they were shite from the write ups they get, but then I saw one in the flesh at nispares and promptly changed my opinion. Had Gold Watanabe's and was black. Looked real tough. Looks sooo much better than the sedan

boof- WRX chassis was built to give it an advantage in the WRC over the production based cars (it worked last year). WRX hatch maybe designed as a family car, the sedan was built so that it could be homologated into a better rally car than its rivals. The STI (new one) even has a few trick items so that it can beat the evos on the track. I think that is basically what the story was with the DR30, nissan wanted a car to go racing with and this was the best base tool to do it. My car isn't soft but I can feel the tyres at the point they are going to give way, so the squirming is not in the suspension, it is in the tyres. Both my R30's have been great at doing controlled power slides. Current on is really low though, has 2" of travel in the suspension.

It is a sheep in sheeps clothing. It has round stove top tail lights ... that is what is important Aren't they just grand for slip lanes and corners where you can gingerly apply throttle until the squirming signifies all hell is going to break loose? And what's this crap about them not handling any good. If you want something soft and predicatable then drive a camry. If you want to feel like you've been slingshot around a corner get yourself an M or D R30. My MR30 poo poos all over the Z I had. Ok it isn't a freakin F1 but a WRX is a sports car and they aren't renowned for mid corner speed or stability. Here endeth the lecture................

Most of your time is spent with your foot on the gas not looking under the bonnet. Go the RB. RB looks way cool under the bonnet too

I slayed a worked VS SS commodore manual on the weekend running 14.5psi and a wife and 2 kids. We pulled up next to each other in the middle of Diamond Creek and he wound down his window and asked "What the hell is that?!!" HR30 + RB20DET + new turbo = drag car / sports car I agree, they are a sports car, you wouldn't buy one for touring up highways and muscle cars are generally V8 sedans. What would a GTR XU1 Torana be? (Other than a bucket of Holden Crap) I think the DR30 would fit in with that.

I ran 14.5 psi in my RB20DET and it promptly shat itself, so don't run more than 12 or it will cost at least 350 for the turbo and 700 to have your head pulled off and checked! Very expensive lesson. Get another turbo if you want to run more boost.

hairdresser's sports car, like the Celica...........BWA HA HA HA

That is exactly what I thought. I should have around 220fwkw at 15-16psi with the mods I've got. didn't get around running it on a dyno but I found a leak. I used permatek type 3 around the leak but I haven't run it hard yet. I'll repost when I eventually get around to dynoing again.

So I will get a minimum of 13psi and I'll claim it has 300hp (and then I'll set the max to 18 and estimate 350hp)

Alright then, I want to make 300fly wheel horse power, what boost (manifold post IC) do I need to run with the mods I have. Assume the turbo is the same size as and RB25 but has no ceramic bits.

engine has done around 70000 kms. 20000 has been on freeways. The head was off and got a clean up and no 3 piston had a little damage from turbo shrapnel that went through it but the bores were clean. It also hasn't revved past 6500. The tuning is slightly rich when floored to prevent pinging. does that help? If so what is a estimated safe level for the mods on my car?

So all are agreed that 18psi is safe with my mods???

It actually doesn't make less power than standard. He didn't do a rolling stop (out of gear) so you can't tell what drive line and dyno losses it was getting. We'll find out how good a job he did at tuning when I take it over to P.E.T. at tommo

Great, then 16.5 should be no prob. Keep the advice coming

Anyone know who has this in North/ North East Melbourne? I was thinking that was something I'd have to do. BTW, I took it to 7200 rpm and it popped and farted, then I did it again and it didn't miss a beat. Wierd!!!