Traah221

Okay, so an update on this and a bump on the thread for others who may have this problem. I think this was a precursor to my problem now, which is the above problems, difficulty starting, needs brand new spark plugs to run, won't start again if left sitting overnight even, and a terrible miss through all RPMs, running on 4 cylinders it feels like. So, I'm sure if you have these issues, you undoubtedly pulled your plugs, stuck them in the coils and grounded it, then cranked the car to check for spark, and you probably saw spark, but be VERY THOROUGH, check all your coils for the SAME LEVEL of Spark. You may find, as I did, that, while there was a spark, it was in fact a very, very feeble spark on most of your cylinders. Now, this has degraded to a complete absence of any spark for me in 4 out of 6 cylinders, and a very weak, useless one in the last 2. I'm going to start at the ECU signals and start checking continuity up to the Ignitor chip, voltage out of the chip, then down the coil harness until I find the weak link. I'll post it up when I find the culprit.

040122, Crawled around the gearbox for awhile, but no joy on anything unplugged or loose. Since I was using the cruddy screw-jack from a friends car, I couldn't get very far under it to look up higher. It's sad I have to ask, but I want to eliminate every possibility, where exactly on the gearbox is the plug located, just so I can be doubly certain? Also, thanks a million for the input!

Thread hasn't been touched in awhile, so figured I'd throw my two cents in. 1992 R32 GTS-T Type M, RB20DET, about 110k km or so. Failure: Blown headgasket/cracked head, followed up by scored cylinder No. 3 Factors: Shoddy (at best) maintenance on part of the last owner, coupled with some rough driving. State of Tune: Stock JDM Tune, full 3" decat. Suspension: Zeal Coilovers, Falken 215/45/R16 on 9.5" Rear, 8.5" front Oil: Mobil 1 Synth. 15W-50, fresh as of 300km ago Comments: I took it upon myself to treat it to a fluid flush/swap, but never decided to flush the radiator. Best I can figure, the solid debris I found in/around coolant piping formed itself a nice dam around the lanes near Cylinder 3, letting it get nice and hot before one of my should-have-known-better high speed corners busted it loose. Engine temp skyrocketed in seconds, but Oil temp remained stable. Began pouring water into Cylinder 3, puffing just white smoke, no burning oil, but the real damage came from having no choice but to limp it about 140km back home, out of the mountains, running it like that. Poor old beast got me all the way home, stopping every 15 minutes or so to let it cool and refill my radiator with water. A quick look past the valve covers told me all I needed to know. Looked like an extra-light Caramel Milkshake, further inspection when it was out showed me the damage to Cyl. 3 caused by lubrication via water for the whole trip. Not Pretty.

Without having heard it myself, I would be on the cautious side and say nurse it as much as possible. Aside from the carbon monoxide rolling into your cabin, the leaky manifold increases bay heat much quicker, and can eventually cause some valve damage. Best avoided if possible. Also, rarely hitting boost doesn't necessarily equate to better economy, since, if it's struggling to hit the higher RPM range, it offsets the lack of air with a bit more fuel. Just a thought.

Well, this is aggravating. The engine was prior flooded, but I managed to get that sorted out, but I noticed that the car is quite frankly running like hell. Idling, and at any point in the RMP band, the old RB misses almost to the point of un-driveable, but when it hits mid-rpm range, it struggles to keep any power at all, often cutting out completely unless I let off the throttle. I can very slowly nurse it past the point of it dying by gradually raising the RPMs, running it all the way up the band, but the moment I blip it, I can almost kill the car at 20 kph. Then, if it is parked and sits overnight, I can't get it started for the life of me. It will crank and crank all day, but never a hint of firing unless I completely replace the spark plugs. It's got a brand new set of spark plugs, and my fuel pressure is nominal. I have read lots of things about the coil packs arcing out and messing up the spark, so I'm going to liquid tape them, and I plan on replacing all my old worn vacuum lines with new silicone lines. Aside from these things, what other suggestions do you have?

Anyone? No Ideas? Having my daily driver back would be wonderful. Bump.

Title says it all, guys. Recently swapped in a Series I Rb25DET, it runs well enough, but I'll be damned if I can't get any of my accessory power to work. Inoperative items include: - Gauge Cluster - Rear lights (Brake, Running, etc) - Turn Signals (Front and Rear) - Interior Lights - Accessories (A/C, heat, power windows, etc) Items still functioning: - Headlights - Radio and Speakers I'm kind of burnt out and at a complete loss. It's not exactly legal to drive around as it were, so getting these things back would be most appreciated. I figure there is a sole cause for pretty much all of these, hopefully someone else has encountered this random issue.

Right, found my problem. probably a good bit of it was, when my Cam gear cover was taken off, my CAS bracket was completely snapped off. Good times. Replaced it with one from a nearby RB20, replaced all my spark plugs and cranked it for awhile with the fuel pump fuse out, drying the cylinders. Plugged the fuse in, and she fired right up. Now, next issue is that I have no electrical power to any of my accessories. I have headlights and a radio, but nothing else. No windows, A/C, Rear lights, brakelights, turn signals, and my gauge cluster isn't working at all. Has to be a single cause, with everything electrical going at once, but what?

Right, I'll have to get some shop time, but as for adjusting the CAS as I have someone crank the engine, what exactly am I listening for? Never honestly messed too much with adjusting the CAS, just set it at stock centered.

Alright guys, need some real help here. I had the car able to start and idle with no problems, albeit kind of rough, as I had yet to swap the pins for Injectors 4 and 6 at the ECU. So, I started it a few times to check for leaks with the injectors wrong, but I saw nothing wrong with that. The problem is, I then swapped the injectors like they're supposed to be, and now I have nothing. It will crank repeatedly, almost sound like it is going to fire, sometimes fire along with the cranking, but never actually run under it's own power. The stumper is that I swapped everything back to the original way I had it running not hours earlier, and still couldn't get it to fire. I have already checked spark on all my coils, so that's one main area down. Total troubleshooting list so far is: -Tried different Ignitor -Tried new coil packs - Switched out the CAS - Put wires in correct order and reset the ECU How would I go about checking my fuel supply and air supply, or is there some glaringly obvious problem you can point out from my symptoms?

So, here's something I don't have much experience with, the R32 bodystyles. Say, for example, I want to toss on an R32 GT-R front bumper, possibly hood on, I understand the GT-R has wider body panels in front and rear, but how much of a difference? Enough of one that the bumper/hood combo wouldn't fit and/or look just awful? Also, any decent solutions for fixing some rust around the rear quarters/wheel wells? Save for riveting on GT-R Rear quarters. Thanks for any input!

Yeah, i have the harness in and built, that's exactly what I did, everything is solid save for the injectors, I realized what was wrong almost immediately, but hey, still got the engine to fire and idle on the first try, but any prolonged use with the S2 coil packs hooked to the ignitor would cause some coil pack blowouts. With the RB20 loom and ignitor, I am pretty much forced into using the Rb20 Coil packs, aren't I? If I understand right, the earth ground, 7 prong plug is on opposite sides of the ignitor for RB25 and RB20, correct?

Spurdo; I simply trusted the wrong sources, I have an issue with getting parts to where I'm at, so I had the engine and ECU ordered as one through someone off-base to be shipped to their house, and trucked into the auto shop for me, but they didn't think to look for a Series 1, instead choosing the better option engine with less miles and an attached clutch. It just happened to be a Series 2, unfortunately, which puts me in my little predicament now. 4DOOR; Thanks a million, finally the answer I was looking for. Luckily the local junker has an HCR32 with an RB20DET i can snag the coil packs off, as well as a Series 1 ECU in there somewhere. You're a lifesaver mate.

Alright, final snyopsis on my coil pack situation is this; Running an RB25 Series 2, with Series 2 ECU and Coil Packs, with RB20 Harness. This won't work, obviously, so my question is can I swap out the Series 2 ECU for a Series 1, and to supplement that, swap out my coil packs with Series 1 Rb25 or RB20 coil packs? Would that be my only way to make this engine run with the given parts installed?

Appreciated guys, for clarification I'm running the RB25 ECU, I also have the RB20 ECU on hand if necessary.

Hello you beautiful people you, I just would like to know what solutions you previous RB25 swapped R32 GTS-T Gurus had for; 1. The different sized heater hoses 2. The throttle cable mounting bracket 3. If anyone else has had an issue with the aircon belt being horrendously loose? and 4. I have a series II RB25, can i swap in RB20 coil packs to mesh better with my RB20 Harness, or am I just completely shafted? A pre-emptive thanks for any and all input. Also: I'm not spamming separate threads, I apologize, I just honestly don't know where to drop this topic.

Hello you beautiful people you, I just would like to know what solutions you previous RB25 swapped R32 Gurus had for; 1. The different sized heater hoses 2. The throttle cable mounting bracket 3. If anyone else has had an issue with the aircon belt being horrendously loose? and 4. I have a series II RB25, can i swap in RB20 coil packs to mesh better with my RB20 Harness, or am I just completely shafted? A pre-emptive thanks for any and all input.

Sorry, for the seemingly rude title, but it is an eye-catcher eh? So, my conundrum is one that has been covered countless times it seems, but none of the guides or tips seem to fit me whatsoever, so I will need some resident expert's help in discovering exactly what it is I have. My mechanical knowledge is general across all platforms, every engine type, not rudimentary, but certainly not Skyline-specific, so forgive my seemingly novice outlook on this issue. Now, the issue at hand stems from me cracking a head out on an excursion, and with no option in sight, limping the car back home. Obviously, this was less than helpful for the old RB20DET, so I decided to nix it in favor of the bigger, better RB25DET, which is now sitting nice and pretty mechanically in the bay of my car. The issue here lies in getting the brains of the car to work, ie the fabrication of the wiring harness for the R33 engine in the R32 Chassis. There are numerous guides on the swap, but none that delve deeply into the wiring side, and absolutely none that seem to match the physical wires I have in front of me. If I were to post pictures, could you identify for me what series harness I have, and what the best approach to making them work would be? I am in possession of both a stock RB20 and RB25 harness and ECU, so any combination is possible, i just need a resident expert to tell me what wire to chop and swap to get my daily driver back. Much appreciated!