robert112

just like I'm "assuming" I can do better... You're "assuming" I can't.

My friend and I want cheap powerupgrades and we are thinking of undoing our exhaust and bringing a screwdriver/hammer to the honey comb and knock that f#*$& sh#*($ right out... I heard there's a 10k Fine on this and a 10kw peformance upgrade... 1kw for 1 grand... lol anyway, any comments/thoughts before we turn into clowns and perform this act

Roy thanks bro =]

2rismo don't be a loser and get all defensive, watch the video it's obvious his granny shifting and his 1st gear is all over the place...

I remember driving my skyline on 11 psi, and I can tell you if I were driving a skyline on 1.2 bar I would be pulling at least flat 13's on my first go!!!

I'll buy the turbo timer and boost meter seperate... [email protected] if you're interested

bigdatto - you got a hks ball bearing one....... it costs a lot more to recondition the standard ceramic turbos in skylines =/ I got quoted 1750 once, and rigolli's wouldn't even touch me. Edge - are you serious? I heard the r34 turbo's are a bit bigger than the r33 anyway so does that mean I should produce more power? doesa any1 have the exact tech specs between r33 turbo's and r34 turbo's?

i have a stock dark grey skyline with normal plates i live in horningsea park near hoxton park in liverpool if you see me please race me =]

thanks for the gcg refernce guys but I found a cheaper place in landsvale that are going to rip out a 15 000 k turbo outta an r34 and whack that in including installation and cleaning of all my cooler and interpipes (oil everywhere from the turbo burnin oil) will cost $1k just curious, do the r33 turbos blow up easily? Yes mine blew after 5 minutes of running high boost (i THINK i was running 11 according to the stock boost gauge). all the skyline turbos have a ceramic wheel (on the exhaust side which is the important side!) to make them nicen light so that u spool up earlier, but they're piss weak compared to metal ones. Now I have a question: Is the r34 the exact same turbo as the r33? ie, same size, same power?

I have a problem where I can't enable my hicas diagnostics because my steering wheel isn't sitting straight. it's like 1 whole notch on the steering bolt to the right. But god damn if I was driving straight and the rear kicked out like that I would definately not drive it till i got it fixed, Hope you know what your doing about 'locking your HICAS' because I guess as Gav said, there's a chance it's not even that.

its physically possible, but no mechanic I know will do it, and if they do, they charge too much

I blew my standard turbo and mechanics say 'No one rebuilds ceramic turbos' so I am buying one. Anyone willing to sell me a turbo? I don't particularly care which turbo as long as its standard flange so that I can bolt it straight back on with no adapter plate or anything like that. garrett gt25 would be nice... any offers?

disregard that last msg it turned out totally screwed!

thank you every1 I believe my engine is fine because I still have power and no sounds at all. I can rev the **** out of it up to 7 grand, it performs great. Oil burns, so I think OTTO is right about the turbo burning up the oil. HOPEFULLY ! hehe what i would do is take it to a mechanic and get them to tell you whats wrong with it. pay them the money and then you go out and fix the problems yourself. There is plenty of stuff in these forums going to sale. Yes LAL thanks for that advise I think I will do that actually.

Hey all, I recently bought a 95 r33 GTS-T and got my grandfather (mechanic but knows nothing about turbo's) to change my oil and oil filter. I saw him pour just over 4 litres in and thought 'isn' t that too much?' the oil checker showed full. Then I installed a second hand bleed valve and just guessed the correct measurement, gave it flat stick and noticed that the needle had moved up to the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken. Thrilled with the massive power increase I took it up to 4th gear twice. Then I took the bleedvalve off to try and feel the power difference. To my HORROR and shock I noticed a huge cloud of smoke blowing out of my exhaust. Now I'm burning up oil and the smoke is still there. (although the smoke isn't as bad as when it first happened). I thought the problem went away because it was still spooling fine on stock boost and couldn't really see the smoke anymore but that night I went to the runs, and noticed my oil went from full to low. It's burning oil and I assume I've blown a turbo seal maybe? Okay now here's the question: 1) Does anyone know a good mechanic? 2) What do I do? 3) How much do you think it will cost assuming turbo needs replacing?

Thanks wreckedhead, I'll take you up on that!

Hey all, I recently bought a 95 r33 GTS-T and got my grandfather (mechanic but knows nothing about turbo's) to change my oil and oil filter. I saw him pour just over 4 litres in and thought 'isn' t that too much?' the oil checker showed full. Then I installed a second hand bleed valve and just guessed the correct measurement, gave it flat stick and noticed that the needle had moved up to the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken seeing as 7mmhg is equivilant to like 14.7 or 14.9 psi? 1 bar! Anway, Thrilled with the massive power increase I took it up to 4th gear twice. Then I took the bleedvalve off to try and feel the power difference. To my HORROR and shock I noticed a huge cloud of smoke blowing out of my exhaust. Now I'm burning up oil and the smoke is still there. (although the smoke isn't as bad as when it first happened). I thought the problem went away because it was still spooling fine on stock boost and couldn't really see the smoke anymore but that night I went to the runs, and noticed my oil went from full to low. It's burning oil and I assume I've blown a turbo seal. Okay now here's the question: 1) Does anyone know a good mechanic? 2) What do I do? 3) How much do you think it will cost assuming turbo needs replacing?