slip

Good luck buddy, youre going to need it!

How about you get a decent car you can keep for a fair while, spend as little as possible, save as much as you can and put your savings into assets (things that make you money, provide cash flow). This is probably the 2nd quickest way to do it. The quickest way is to get a loan and buy one. BUT after youve done that, you've been stuck in the car for 5 years (most commonly) paying it off, you've payed off thousands of dollars in interest, so at the end..... The car is 5 years older, its depreciated thousands, you've paid off thousands more than the purchase price, so you are really behind the 8 ball, and have a lot of ground to make up just to get back where you started. Even if you upgrade 5 years at the end of a 5 year loan, you are only back where you started! So, in the long run, you are better off being in a strong financial position, than only just being able to get the car, because at the end of the day, one is very different to the other.

Definately a lesson to be learned. He was seriously motoring, in the wet, in a suburban street. Saw the picture on the front page of the Bulletin, didn't even need to read the article to know that it was fatal. Sad to see it happen so graphically.

I did it a few times then realised some idiot had 1 side set up incorrectly with a plate upside down causing them to be different heights. Then to swap springs i think, then swapped springs back, then to adjust them again, then to readjust them after the fronts were changed. So no, not really to get that perfect handling, it was just out of necessity. I should probably put the std rear swaybar back on for more grip and corner speed but its more fun with the rear slightly easier to bring around. (no lsd.... booooo) Car still needs 2 major and 1 minor changes to the suspension setup to be good. Stock 03 RS Impreza (wrx like wheels/susp) shits all over it in back to back testing.

What do they do if you pull over to "make a phone call"? Pull in behind you or keep driving, or go over your car for defects when you pull over?

Genesis - Fair bit of time as I built the car from a wreck (fell asleep) and a shell. Its been through a few stages of specification, but on the current spec, i've had the rear suspension out, dissasembled, reassembled and reinstalled myself about 7 times, brakes took thousands and a couple of months, the whole dash has been out of the car, did the waterpump in the repco car park at warwick in the dark (thank god for people who bring tools to track days), installed swaybars and strut brace, and just HEAPS of general working on it/removing something to get at something else, little custom things blah blah. And at the end i've just got a gutless 31 that stops hard and is alright around corners (I still want different wheels and lower springs, it never ends). Start with a good car in the first place!

STT james?

Genesis, after reading your last post, heres another option. Bomb the suspension and attend to the braking dept with R32 GTST or R33 Equipment. Thats what ive done (susp is not as good as id like) and its worked for me. With 78rwkw, peak power @ 4100rpm, and no lsd, its been quickest at Mt Cotton in the time trials a couple of times (mainly Vs R33's) and hangs with 32/33's in the mountains. If you were not going to do the suspension and brakes, I would bin it for a 33 GTST or preferably a 32 that someones shoved an RB25DET into. Good brakes std, and its easy to find one with aftermarket susp and some mods already. Food for thought.

ive seen 265s on the back of a 32 and the guards needed to be rolled. to be safe, 9-9.5" with 255's on the back. 8, maybe 8.5 with 235's on the front.

You may need a spacer between the hub and rotor with the 33 parts to make the rotor line up with the calliper correctly. As above, they bolt up to the HR31 front strut/hub assembly. Find these, and you're set. For big rears, i have a custom setup on my aussie 31. PM me if you want info on it.

Definately buy new wheels.

A set of aftermarket quality shocks, springs and swaybars (and bushes if needed) is a great start. Whiteline is probably where you should start your journey. You could even use height adjustable coilovers if you want to spend a bit more. You can get these 2nd hand from importers etc. some 16x8 front and 16x9 rear wheels or 17xwhatever blah blah with good tyres will also help. Camber adjustment if needed (ie adjustable strut tops or whatever they use for 32's) Whiteline has proved that you dont need to go too low to make a line handling well. You may even be able to lower it slightly without it being too noticeable. Oh, and the shocks and springs should be suited to each other as a package. Not just chosen willy nilly as you may end up with a nasty setup.

Depending on how far you need to get them out you may need longer wheel studs too. They are illegal. Try selling your wheels and just buy GTR wheels?

Measure EVERYTHING you can before you start, and just talk to heap of guys who know their stuff. My big brakes cost $$$$$ in the end due to crap information from people. I have an R32 GTST equivalent setup now with slotted rotors, good pads and fluid, and its very effective as the big rears give balance to the setup.

Yld 33

"Charge them like a wounded bull" is another. A particular yard will not always have all "good" cars, or all "crap" cars. Every car is different, you can find absolute gems at dodgy crappy looking yards, and peices of poop at high end well presented yards. Mechanic inspection + a car feeling "right" on the test drive + warranty is the best you can do.

sounds good.

I was still "not of sound mind" at 2pm on new years day. WOOOO! Bring on the new years stories in here guys.

From memory the S3 box is meant to have a decent firm shift from 1st to 2nd. Honestly, in the long run, it will be cheaper and better performance wise to do a manual conversion. I did one on mine, it was quite easy actually.

32/33 etc 4 piston callipers require the calliper mount holes to be 100mm apart. Check yours. If yours is an aussie unit, see if you can use import suspension parts, or a complete S13, R31 front susp setup including arms. If your rear shocks/springs are setup as a complete unit, finding a replacement with the right valving/spring rate shouldnt be toooooo hard.

buy the whiteline stuff from whiteline, and get a mechanic to install if you are not confident, and then get someone to set it up if its adjustable. Was not impressed with the mark up they tried to put on kmac strut tops, which i just bought direct from kmac in the end. Bit of a price difference. (ps, kmac strut tops suck) swaybars, strut tops, strut brace, all easy to install. Even springs/shocks in 33/32 are easy.

Mt Cotton Driver training centre. I have organised 4 skidpan days there. Safe and is extremely good for building skill.

You cant use all the power of lots of bikes off the line or youll loop it. Dirtbikes etc. Wheelbase title goes to the Buels (relatively) as their wheelbase is similar to a 125/250 GP bike.

Continuing the hybrid theme.... My custom brakes are made up of Aussie R31, Import R31, R32 GTSt, VN Commodore, HSV VN SS, and a bunch of custom fabrication.

The issue is not panels that crunch "easy to save u". If the roof collapsed easily then it would have been extremely dangerous, hard to get out of the car, and could have caused serious injuries to the occupants. An Excel does not have anywhere near as much sheetmetal as a commodore to absorb and resist impacts, and is a lightweight old korean (or something) design. It may have some panels that crunch easy, but anyone can put some panels that collapse on a car, thats easy, and doesn't necessarily mean the car will be safe in a crash. Making a car safe in a crash is a complex and expensive excercise.