SeriesIIGTST

hmm....thanks for the replies. Reluctant to think it's the air con gas as in the mornings, before the car has had a chance to get hot, if i turn the a/c on, it's bloody cold so i think that's working and has gas. This just seems to be hot air constantly streaming in, even when off. The only way i stop my cabin getting hot is to turn it off but leave the recirc button on. Which is why i was thinking it was the blend door. boj01: when you say, "unit itself", could you please carify to what you mean?

Hi all, Bit of a problem i'm having at the moment with my R33 GTST. Climate control is pumping hot air in, irrespective of what the display says (18 - 32degrees). Run a diagnostics and comes up with no error codes at all. I have done a search and come up with it may be the blend door but i have no idea where this is. I have no liquid in my foot wells or anything like that so i don't think it's a blocked heater core? Any help would be appreciated. Cheers!

And God looked down upon the designers at Nissan and said un-to'eh "let there be White" and it was so.

Nice car, good luck with sale. Somebody buy it free bump

i have a very similar setup:- 2535 on a 25DET, 910 pump, Z32 AFM, and am using a Nismo FPR which bolted straight into stock position. See sig for power! it works :uh-huh:

my HKS turbo whitsles quite audibly. Now my engine is newly rebuilt and the turbo is brand new so i know they're no problems with any of my gaskets. It's perfectly normal. I love it

Hi all, I have an Addzest CD + MD player head units and on my CD player, the EL display or whatever the nice little graphic screen is, is starting to break up and coming up with black lines through the display thus not displaying any information or putting lines through the rest of the display. This runs left to right accross my screen rather than up and down. Can this be repaired? I don't really want to get a new deck cause my screen has died. Anyone offer any advice? Cheers!

ER34-203203 Model: BGKBRTAR34EDA-JP-- Year make: 04/2001 Colour: KV2 Int colour: G RB25DE Auto 4 speed HI.2WD GTV

Try here for a lot of basic info (think it may have fuse translation also) http://www.powerlink.co.nz/%7Egraeme/faq/index.html

one other thing to check is do a simply diagnostics test via consult plug. I had a very nasty hole (to the tune of about 80RWHP) at 5,500 - 6,500 due to my knock sensor (Code 34) not being connected properly and my stock ECU retarding my ignition levels to safe amount, then all of sudden, power jumped back up again, all with consistent A/F's and boost levels. Plugged in the knock sensor, reset the ECU and been happily boostin ever since. Go the S-AFCII

I'm pretty sure it's a heat issue rather than an oil circulation issue when shutting your car off. If you think about the operation of a turbo timer, it simply lets your car idle for a set amount of time, allowing the bearing in your turbo charger to cool down as there is not load on them causing heat. Shutting off your car and hearing your turbo spool down is simply a good sign that all your bearings are in good shape I bet you're gonna be loving your 2535 once all your PFC tune is sorted out. It's an awesome turbo on my car! (See sig for power )

I started this thread a long time ago and am surprised it's still alive and kicking. I'm sure i've posted what i ended up doing somewhere on this thread but i'll clear up some points about aftermarket piping. I fitted to my R33 GTS-t the TRUST V-SPL FMIC kit, which uses non-standard piping routes. 1) I did not cut any fan shroud/blades at all to fit the cooler piping which goes to the throttle body. 2) Yes, you do have to cut a hole in the side of your inner driver's side guard, as well as a little bit of grinding away of the lower inside ends of you bumper support. (Hard to explain in words but it was a piece 1cm x 4cm at end end to square off the roundish bumper support to fit the end tanks of the cooler in) 3) You have to move the horns but with this, all you need is a little "S" shape braket to move them closer to your radiator thus fitting between your cooler and radiator still. 4) You will need to modify your front bar accordingly. 5) Everything else bolts straight up. As SK said, the 120 degree bend trick is the shortest route (with the exception of a Greddy inlet plenum) but if you're only worried about cutting your fan blades, then this isn't worth the time or money to fabricate in my opinion as cutting them isn't necessary if done correctly. Hope that helps add to the discussion.

Yep, that's normal. My new HKS 2535 turbo is audible for 10-15secs after my engine switches off. It's all good

Sorry to hear Paul, That sucks Hope it's back on the road soon

Yep...but i've also taken off the z32 AFM. Seems to get closing to maxing out but never quite there so i'll see how far I can push it. I'm not going to sing the praises of my S-AFC just yet, we'll wait for the dyno to see what it does but if it holds up, i'm going to be the biggest fan ever. I realise there's more power to be had from PowerFC but at this point, bang for your buck wise, it's probably not worth it as the turbo would be reaching peak efficiency anyway i'd imagine.

Great turbo, i'm making 250rwkw with one bolted to my rb25. Why would you want to sell it? Good luck with sale anyway!

Robo's Yeah I think so, turns out it was my knock sensor - one wire was loose and sending intermittant signals to the ECU, which would retard my timing and cause a big hole, particularly when the power really came on (ie, at NVCS changeover). I haven't managed to find time to get it back to the dyno yet but i'm working on that. I can't feel the hole any more so we'll see what happens. Cheers!

You have PM Bart

just checked a photo of my bosch 910 fuel pump....exactly the same serial number. mine's in tank, where i plan to keep it until the end of time.

Thanks for all the replies Sure enuf, put it on a hoist (just easier) and there was my front knock sensor hanging loose (not off, just loose). Have plugged it back in, made sure it's totally secure and BOOM, power all over the place again Tried another ECU diagnotic and got a code 55 - all clear Car is pulling violently all the way to redline again, breaking traction all over the place and generally being great fun to drive. :burnout: If it's this good with S-AFC + Stock ECU, can't wait to get PowerFC or Wolf and see what happens. My advice: Do not underestimate your knock sensors and the simply ECU diagnostics...gives a great insight into what could be wrong before resorting to a mechanic

short answer NO, due to different bonnet, front grille and side quarter panels (i think) due to different shape of the headlights. Well, at least for S2 lights....are GTR lights same as S2? Didn't think so...

I love my 60mm HKS boost gauge, particularly when it's glowing blue and showing the fun side of a bar

Yeah, thanks Driver I have updated prices in original post and my post above to include these. If you would like to order anything, please contact dsturbd directly.

Brett, awaiting further instructions as to payment, collection and availability. Brendan, have asked, still waiting. Everyone: You'll know as I know That's the best I can offer.

Prices are in! $245 for 4000 series rotors $45 for bendix ultimate pads $230 for greenstuff pads $180 for feredos pads (which dsturbd tells me are better than greenstuff) $65 ltr for Elf brake fluid If you would like to acquire any of the following, please PM dsturbd directly and he will order and arrange payment with you individually. Just mention the SAUWA group buy and he'll give you these prices. Cheers! Dave