SeriesIIGTST

Pops: No, I didn't wrap it. Was going to HPC coat it while it was over east but in the end, I couldn't be stuffed. My car isn't a performance monster and really goes fast enough for my liking so for me, the additional cost probably wasn't warranted. I've heard that thermal wrapping can trap in moisture and corrode the metal also? Anyone else care to shed light on this point?

Can anyone who has a Spec S boost controller by blitz possibly post of picture of the solenoid and its vacuum wiring as it stands in their car?

Right, Well I got home and my inpatient dad and brother had already started putting the thing on! I asked if they had taken a photo and the only one they took was this one attached below. The pipe itself is well constructed and the mandrel bends are very nice. It opens up right from the turbo housing as opposed to the original cast dump which is flat directly opposite the actuator. Probably not the best explanation and if I had a photo i'd attach it. Putting it on was a MF to get to the standard bolts. Probably would have been an idea to get the allen key bolts but it is do-able either way. Everything bolted up nicely, we re-used the gasket between the dump and the turbo and used the supplied gasket for connection to the cat. On the initial drive, the car felt stronger, with noticable response in boost lower in the rev range. Before if i was to put my foot down in third at say 50 it would bog a little, now it boosts up and starts to pull. Top end is even better and once NVCS kicks in, the needle shoots around to redline. I'd dyno it as i already have before results but I've also added S-AFC and EBC since my last dyno so i couldn't really say. All I know is that seat of the pants, it feels a lot stronger. In my opion, money VERY WELL SPENT. Hope you find this helpful. Sorry about the pic. Cheers :burnout:

Hi all, Just wondering, seeing as the instructions are in Japanese, anyone got any really easy to understand instructions about how the plumbing of a Dual SBC Spec S goes during installation? I've had a look and tried to get a friend to decypher japanese but still a little confused. Any help you could provide/photos, tips would be really appreciated. I do know which are the IN and OUT holes on the actual solenoid and I think one goes to inlet tract and one to actuator but does any run to the BOV pipe like the standard one does? Don't worry about the electrics part of the wiring, that's easy, just really the vaccum lines to hook up to would be appreciated. Cheers!

Gianni, Sorry dude, I don't have an N1 front pipe so I can't really help you. I ordered the one piece dump/front pipe which, with any luck, will cleanly bolt onto my cat and my turbo without modification. Will keep you informed as it happens...

I just bought mine from Flyn also. Will let you know how long it takes to ship to the west here, and how it bolts up/looks/sounds/feels.... :burnout:

Dave Auditor/Internal Risk Analyst for a large global accounting firm.

You could easily spend the $2500 just on a decent set of mags. As KamikazeR33 said, the cleaner your car looks, the easier it will be to sell so don't go tacking bits when you purchase them just anywhere. IMO for $2500, i'd add: Immobiliser (what $$ you feel necessary) Dump + front pipe to existing exhaust (say $400) S-AFC (fuel computer) and tune (say $700 including installation) Mag Wheels (whatever you have left) With a full exhaust and fuel computer, you'll feel a definite increase in power. If you want more, you could add a cheap-ass bleed valve to that list (<$200) and wind the boost up also. Bang for your buck probably the best investments but i'm no expert but have done A LOT of reading and similar mods to my car. Good luck and enjoy your Skyline! :burnout:

I quite like the look of this pipe from Flyn Performance also. Has anyone had any experience with them or their products?

Went down and paid for one yesterday. Haven't seen the demo so I'm purely on faith but as it's a shirt about Skylines, how can it be bad?

Guys and Girls, Trying to install a S-AFC2 into my S2 R33 GTST but have two knock wires (cyls 1-3 and cyls 4-6) Which one do I hook the purple wire of my SAFC2 to? Help would be appreciated! Cheers

Getting back on topic.... Picture of my white skyline... Cheers!:burnout:

No worries. I was going to join in but why spoil a good thing?

rev210: are you having fun playing with yourself?

Gester: No, as my car is a series II, i'm aware of the problems running greater than 12psi and as it's a daily driver i will probably set it to around 10psi for normal driving and 7psi for a low boost setting (possibly on normal premium unleaded). Hippy: As you are probably aware, the SAFCII allows you to tune in or out fuel as required. I don't think overall, there will be a huge effect of not running a boost controller without adjusting the fuel mapping via the SAFC but certainly an advantage of being able to tune the car accurately for any given amount of boost would not only make a smoother power curve but also bump power and economy up. As I am yet to install or tune either I really couldn't tell you. Perhaps, one thing I might consider is doing a dyno run on say 10psi with the SAFC off then turn it on, get it tuned and do another. Depends on available time of myself and whoever I get to tune it. Cheers!

Hi After much debate on boost control, I've finally purchased a SAFCII and Blitz DualSBC Spec S boost controller for my car. I was wondering what is the best way to tune the two available files on the SAFC in as i'll be installing both at the same time (no doubt with a little help)? By fuel type (ie 1 map for 98 RON Ultimate, one for 95 Premium), or by boost pressue (1 map for say 7psi and one for 12psi). Or am I totally wrong and you tune it a different way all together. Opinions? Answers? Cheers all, I value your inputs. Dave :burnout:

rs73: Mate, I think i was running 10W40 and now i think i've got 20W50. Hope that helps!

I had problems with this also. I did a compression test on mine and found cylinder 6 was right down. We tried a lot of things to try and figure out why. I actually found putting slightly thicker oil in did the trick. Seriously, this sounds dodgy but i swear, we did tests before and after, drove it nice, rang the balls of it, the whole works and never had a problem since. It would seem that the oil was too thin and simply draining away from the valves. Hopefully you may find this to work. I am far and away, not mechanically minded so I have no idea why this works, all i know is that's the only thing we changed on my car and the compression literally doubled back up to normal afterwards. Good luck!

I have a set of EL Guages in my R33, put them in myself and have had no problems with them at all. I got them through the Spoilershop in Myaree for around $200. As far as i'm aware on the legality of them, they have dimmer control and I think (don't hold me to it) that's all that is required from dash lights - hence having to put in ugly dimmer switches during compliance. Cheers! :burnout:

Do I understand it correctly to mean that dual-solenoid can handle more boost pressure than a single? Therefore, there would not be any benefit to be had from a dual solenoid design over a single on a car with stock turbo, cooler, internals etc as boost can't (well shouldn't be) wound up higher than 18psi anyway? The feedback is appreciated. I'm thinking about the DualSBC Spec-S now as I need the guage, otherwise it would definitely be the Profec B. I'm not big into extra guages.

Hi all, I am chasing an EBC as i've decided bleed valves are a waste of time, yes, even after reading the autospeed article. What i'm having trouble on is deciding which one to buy. I know a lot of you are keen on the Greddy Profec B and I like that idea but know that I'd also require a separate boost guage to monitor the boost levels. After checking out Takakaira, i've had a look at some and decided maybe one with an inbuilt guage is the way to go. What are your opinions on EBC's such as the Blitz SBC i-D, HKS EVC 5, Apexi AVC-R, Blitz Dual-SBC Spec R? Why would you choose one over the other? Benefit? Obviously cost is always a factor so I guess I'm looking for why an HKS unit is so much more than others? Any help you could all shed on this subject would be most appreciated. Cheers!:uh-huh:

I think it's QM1 or 326 or something? Can you see any of those numbers? Cheers dude.

Hi all, I'm away from my car at the moment and urgently need the paint code for a WHITE sII R33 GTST. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Hi all, I've read several discussion forums now about the merits of an aftermarket dump pipe and matching front pipe. There seems to be some dispute as to whether to include the separate pipe coming from the actuator and rejoining it later or just have one big pipe. I'm looking for all your opinions/experiences as this mod is one i'm planning on doing soon. Also, did you guys get a Japanese pre-made pipe or did you get a Perth exhaust shop to make you one? If you did, where did you go and how did you find them? Cheers for all your responses.

Hi all, Was wondering, people state that when you start modifying your engine, you should get a rising rate fuel pressure regulator or something like that. How does this help? Is this something only moderate/heavy modified engines should have or will it give gains on any engine regardless of state of tune? Cheers!