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SeriesIIGTST

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  1. Well, yesterday I saw my skyline's life flash before my eyes as I encountered my dickhead perth driver story. Driving through suburbia, doin 50km/h, just commuting along between my parents place and my house. Passing an oval where footy is being played and as I come up to a corner, I see a white camry waiting to pull out. He's stopped so I continue at 50 up the hill. No more than 10-15m from the corner now, he applies the gas and pulls out in front of me. No time. I lock it up and start sliding on wet road. Fortunatley, instinct doesn't overrule my brain and i take my foot off the brake, furiously steer to the other side of the road to swerve around this bloke, reapply the brakes, now heading for opposite curb on wrong side of road, trying to take in where other cars are (oncoming, camry driver, my car), manage to again release my locked up brakes and steer away from curb as i complete my severe swerve around this dickhead. I come to a stop safely on my side of the road, in the original direction i was heading, check that i haven't shat/pissed myself and check rear vision mirror only to see this clown simply drive off in the opposite direction like nothing had happened. Meanwhile, I'm having heart pulputations. Fortuantley, both myself and my car are all in one piece and without a single scratch. Time to go buy lotto ticket. Dickheads....
  2. I watched the program. The testing did seem to be fairly fair in terms of consumption but they neglected several factors. None of these cars were run on a dyno for power. The 98RON car would have probably made more power than the others. They also didn't take into account pollution, the 98RON car would have burnt cleaner giving off less emmissions. The actual results were: 91 RON car out first, 98 RON car out 4km or 6km later (can't remember sorry) and finally the 95 RON car out a further 1.5km again. Taking other factors into account, the 98 RON car would have made more power, burnt cleaner and only stopped 1.5km short of the 95 fuelled car. Therefore, you pay a premium for more power, cleaner burning fuel that goes a very similar distance. As others have mentioned the 98 is better for other performance reasons such as engine detonation too.
  3. Can you get whole kits (ie, handling kit, works kit, etc) or just individual parts? Cheers
  4. From someone that has done the SAFCII route and then gone the PFC, I would highly recommend going straight to the PFC. I certainly wish I had. If this means driving your car more sedately and saving the extra money, do it. I was very similar to you, had funds for SAFCII but not for PFC but in my opinion, the money i spent on SAFCII + tuning was essentially wasted cause the PFC is such a better tuning option. Also, in relation to the dips, do a basic diagnostics. I had a serious dip in one of my curves at high rpm (and when i say serious, i mean 100rwhp serious) and this turned out to be a knock sensor wire come loose which a simple diagnostics detected. Plugged it back in, took it for a tune again and no dip. It may help, it may not, but hope it does
  5. I and my mechanic actually found that the stock PFC map was pretty good for my car. I drove it to the mechanic with it installed and we ran it up on the dyno and only moved the map a little to get it better. Saying that, I never flogged it around with the untuned PFC, only low/no-boost driving to the tuner. Cubes - obvious question cause you sound like you know what you're doing but did you configure the PFC to specify the Z32 AFM? When I installed mine, everything ran beautifully and I didn't touch anything.
  6. I don't know a lot about Garrett turbo's but the equivalent HKS GT2535 turbo is a very popular upgrade for R33 turbo's. I have one and I love it
  7. Don't know if you've seen the centre caps that say "GTR" on each of the rims! My mates' been after a set of these, price seems good. i'll let him know. Good luck with sale.
  8. Yeah, have fun with that Luki I'll wait til that's on the road me thinks before coming to see it for myself else i'll be roped into help fixing! Dave
  9. Sydneykid, I am be completely wrong but I'm sure that while tuning my car, my tuner pushed back the NVCS changover point on my car which helped eliminate a drop in my curve when tuning my PFC. I'm sure that's what he did cause I was in the car with him when he did it and he told me that was what he was doing?? (Car is R33 GTS25t) Are you sure they are not capable of changing the RPM where it switches over?
  10. Hi For the purposes of keeping the forums clean, we seem to be acquiring quite a lot of traders being listed in the classifieds section on the main page. Perhaps the addition of a traders subsection should be added which then links to all the traders (NewKon.Biz, Allblitz, Kudos, etc) Just a suggestion.
  11. what gain settings are your using? what ratio setting? sounds way too high if you're getting large boost.
  12. SeriesIIGTST

    Tyres

    These are excellent tyres. I'm running 255/40/17's on my GTST at the rear and I paid about $340 each for them so if you can get that size at that price, it's an absolute steal cause I certainly didn't pay retail for mine! Good luck with group buy, but excellent tyre. Very grippy.
  13. 220-250rwkw (depending on boost) + BP98, mainly city driving, several mad bouts of 1bar+ boost levels, mainly sensible though, 16.5l/100. YOUCH!
  14. No offense, but if you want power, sell it and get a turbo line, it's just wasting your money on a n/a trying to get big horsepower. It's so easy with simple mods to really boost the horsepower of a car with forced induction like everyone has said. If you want your skyline to be as fast as your excel was (i can't even type that without laughing out loud), sell it and get a turbo car. The disadvantage of simply adding a turbo kit to your car would be smaller breaks, no LSD, 4 vs 5 wheel studs, higher compression leading to lower boost and the list just goes on.
  15. Like everyone has stated, ask yourself what you're after in your car. If you're after big horsepower, don't go this turbo. I have a 2535 on mine and in my opinion, it's heaven on a stick. An RB25 with a 25XX turbo is going to give you a very quick response, with good power but don't expect to see the rwkw mark exceed much more than 250rwkw with a 25 series turbo. A 2530 would be lucky to even get there with 220rwkw about it's theoretical max. I currently make 220rwkw on just 12psi with my 2535, which is rated just a bit higher than the 2530. For $1200, you can't go wrong if all you are chasing is around 200-220rwkw and a very responsive street car. As others have said, don't underestimate this turbo as it will certainly give your car a kick in the arse that will have you smiling every time Best of luck mate.
  16. i totally disagree paulr33, I have a blitz EBC and a powerFC and quite regularly set different boost levels via my EBC, which is conveniently mounted on my steering column. I quite often drive around on 0.5bar or certainly leave it there when other people drive the car. When i'm looking for a bit of fun, i turn the knob on the EBC, wind it up to say 0.8bar and experience the speed limit quicker than normal. Then, if i'm attempting to set land speed acceleration records, a simple turn of the knob will see a full 1.0bar for maximum attack for my current setup. How you can say that the boost kit for PFC is more handy is beyond me. I made my decision and in fact, made my own thread about this very topic, but decided that the ability to change boost levels with a simple turn of a knob on a separate EBC was far too convincing to warrant selling the EBC and buying a similarly priced PFC Boost kit. Leigh, in my opinion, given you sound like you want to do exactly the same as what I currently do, it's not worth selling the EBC. It will do the job just fine plus every time you want to change your boost quickly, you don't have to fiddle through menus on your PFC hand controller. My 2c.
  17. The only time my stock BOV "flutters" is when i crank my EBC to about a bar, let it spool up from low revs, then release it before it gets a chance to use the boost (ie, change gears around 4K). It's not the BOV as people have correctly mentioned though rather reverberation through the turbo charger. Not a good thing. Also, mass_iv is 100% correct, tighten the spring on any aftermarket BOV and it will flutter like a bitch at low revs. P.S. Mikey, it's not after the plenum/throttle body, ie, not after the air is used, but it is that side of the engine bay on a separate pipe but still part of the pipe that runs to the plenum after the cooler.
  18. Wow, 5th for the T1Rs eh. I was just about to upgrade my wet weather rating from an 8/10 to a 9/10 based on recent wet weather in perth and my experiences with them. All I have to say is that if these are 5th, those tyres rated 1-4 must be un-f**king believable. FAT32: I've not personally tried the TPG's but a lot of the guys and gals here in Perth recommended them to me which is why I went the Toyo direction in the first place.
  19. Okay, Perth has been getting a bit of rain of recent (along with burst water mains and tornado's) so I've finally had a chance to test out the wet weather abilities of these tyres. Quite simply, I am blown away. On stock boost, I can accelerate in a straight line with my foot fairly firmly planted on a road drenched with water and whilst pissing down with rain without any hint of wheelspin at all. Pulling out of corners, I'll get the slightest bit of wheelspin unless i want it to really spin by tramping it and yanking wheel hard in one direction but street driving in the wet honestly feels like driving in the dry. They are f**king awesome. NEVER have I driven with so much confidence in the wet that my back end isn't going to step out taking off like miss daisy like it used to, or accelerating with the tacho north of 4K or even 5K while still maintaining traction. These tyres are superb and I would happily recommend these to anyone with a car of any description. Disclaimer: If you choose to wind the boost up and plant it, rest assured traction disappears quickly. They are good but they're not exactly going to perform miracles and grab hold of wet road when you're feeding 300rwhp+ through them. Street driving - BRILLIANT.
  20. No worries Dan It's in Booragoon (that's south of the river for all you northies) about a 2min walk from Garden City. It's not as big as a 3x2 mate, in that area, the best I could manage was a 2x1 with a decent backyard Price was around the $260-270K mark. Also only a single carport/garage, but it's actually a drive through one so you can get two cars behind the roller door end to end. Major debt club alright! I thought the $20K debt I used to have on my car was big enough!
  21. Thanks for the love Jase I'll let you catch up to my bill from spending money on car and see how you're feeling when you realise how many customer calls you have to answer to pay for a new turbo.... Cheers 600Zilla, i'm hoping mine may one day do the same!
  22. At 16psi (done once for shits and giggles), I pulled 252rwkw. Turbo was still going strong but engine wasn't liking not having any fuel. If you say approx 10rwhp for every psi increase, 18psi should see approx another 15rwkw bringing you pretty close to 270rwkw. However, as I've previously stated, I haven't actually done it and am guessing based on known outputs from my own experience. Is this power useable on the road? Well, you tell me. I can certainly use 220-250rwkw on the road but when I do, I find myself breaking many laws in a very short space of time. However, higher gears, this turbo on RB25, lovely useable power to overtake/accelerate/etc.
  23. Okay. I've got similar setup and have been running HKS2535 for quite some time. I run out of fuel (max injector duty out) at around 1 bar. This nets me around the 310-320rwhp mark but I never (well, hardly ever) wind it up that hard cause i'm on stockies. I do however have a Z32 AFM already and have a feeling that you'd find that even on boost below 1 bar, you'll probably max out the standard one pretty quickly. One day, (I've just bought a house so no time soon) I'll get injectors and crank the boost up some more but for now, to be safe, boost stays around 12psi mark which nets around 300rwhp which is heaps of fun day in and out. Enjoy!
  24. I just bought a house!!! (well, a villa) Holy crap, i'm shaking...I hope i can afford both the house and the 'line....i don't want to sell the 'line. Had to share, thanks for listening! ai-yo! Dave :headspin:
  25. T1S's replaced with T1R's which I recently put on. Great tyre
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