klh6686

Are you sure both knock sensors are in tact and plugged in? i say this only because it is a swap into another chassis and it could be possible.

Oo ok, I think i used the rb25 neo compressor outlet as well.

Wow, you must drive 8-9 sec cars on a daily basis if a stock '26 in a s13, let alone a s14, is a slug Feel free to check out the discussion of this post @ http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=145454 btw: i use his car as an example because not many people put a '26 ina 240sx and leave stock turbos on. one of those "might as well before it goes in" kinda things.

OMG that sticker screams fake. just look at the white border and how it looks like somebody cut the labels w/ scissors lol. The new maf looks much better look at the white border and how the edges are rounded.

What is the reason for the rb25 exhaust elbow not working? I ask because I have a late model RB20 in a us spec 200sx (240sx) and I put a rb25 neo turbo on and I don't recall reusing the rb20 elbow. Everything was a straight forward swap for me.

Cam's aren't tied to the valves. The valves are tied to the lifters though... That's how a rb26 lifter is, notice how the valve goes pretty high into the lifter and the actual lifter is very short Notice the length inside the lifter? that is how a rb25/rb20 lifter is set up. because of the length difference rb20/25 valves have that length difference taken off compared to rb26.

Check the vid ---> http://s180127837.onlinehome.us/1_5/1/R/8/dyno+587HPweb.WMV <------- 587 at the wheels, Go for broke

would anyone have a part number for that part? also would you be able to tell me nissan's price for this part. i live in the states and am unable to get one from my dealer. Thanks in advance

Hello everyone, I desperately need an exhaust camshaft and gear for my S1 RB25 head. I am located in the usa so hopefully comeone is willing to work w/ me. I'm also looking for a set (valve + spark plug) of covers for a rb26 head. if they having chipped paint that is perfect as they will recieve a powdercoating job. Please let me know at klh6686 at gmail.com Thanks in advance!

For those of you that experience a loss in power when switching to a greddy IM need to retune your engine. This is done w/ a rb25 in a usdm 240sx running an AEM EMS.

Hello all, i was wondering if anyone had any GTR Cam Covers + the spark cover for sale. I do not need the the timing cover as i have one already. EDIT: I do need the timing backing plate (the one behind the timing cover.) I plan to have these powdercoated so i would prefer a cheap set that doesn't look so good over a brand new set of R34 nur covers lol. Like i said, i will be powdercoating them. If someone has access to a junkyard that would have a gtr motor that they could pull some for cheap that would be great. I am located in USA and understand the shipping costs involved. Please contact me at klh6686 at gmail dot com. Thanks

Dude, he is talking about 2 different types of fuel, the 15% ethanol 98 ron vs. everyone elses standard 98 ron.

Hey there, a few guys on an american board (nicoclub RB section) were trying to figure this diagram out and i figured someone over here would be able to . basically we all know the basics to install the crank collar we would just like to know jun's exact directions incase there is something they say to do that we overlook. Thanks for your time and we appreciate anything that can be done.

for a cheap quick fix, you can go to your local auto parts store and pick up a particular spring set... I don't know if its the same, but here in america at our parts store we have a 'help' section that has parts that are commonly not found and there is a set of carbeurator springs and there is a medium sized one that my friends have used between something and the wastegate flange. I'm not recomending anything in particular but i have seen it used to help a dodge neon srt-4 from bleeding off up top like they will stock. Just an idea, the rb25 clipset i just purchased had a small spring on the wastegate arm attached to the wastegate bracket.

a 3000 rpm limiter usually is a sign that its the AFM if im not mistaken, atleast that's what it has always done when i forget to plug mine in. i would replace it, borrow one, or whatever you gotta do to check it.

totoro, i really appreciate the translation. I don't know if it owuld be a good idea to hook a map sensor directly to the controller's Map Analyzer harness as it appears the analyzer does more than what i thought it did. Thanks!!

Hey guys, i have a Blitz DSBC boost controller and from my understanding it has an extra plug for a Blitz Map Analyzer. Now what i am trying to figure out is if i could hook up a generic GM MAP sensor to it to get the Map function to work on the boost controller. I am under the impression that i will then be able to select the PSI i want to run w/o fooling around w/ gains and ratios. I am not asking for a complete translation, maybe just the graphs and anything that deals w/ the pressure range and or voltage range, maybe anything dealing with the input output, etc. Thanks in advance! PDF: http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/boost-map-ana.pdf

any intentions on making more than one?

does anyone have any info on the cams matched with the cam gears? perhaps the rb20 cam gears line up differently on a rb26 thus causing some problems??

Cograts on your fix, i have a problem that maybe you guys can help me with, when i start my car when its cold, its really hard to start and doesn't want to hold an idle unless i give it some gas, then about 15 seconds later it will hold idle fine. It happens occasionally when warm, but when its cold it does it often, it sometimes doesn't want to crank, but when it does it'll fire sporatically until i give it gas and then it'll setle back down fine. The motor is an RB20det in a usdm S13. Thanks!!

no i believe the O2 sensor is good, i forgot to mention in my first post that the ecu i bought is socketed for a chip, and i believe the chip that was included is bad. I'm waiting on a chip from the guy and i will repost my experiences. Thanks!

hey bigpig, i am still stock plus i live in america... so i don't think a mines ecu is such a good idea for me. Also, i don't think the year is right, i think it has to be a 93+. Thanks though

yes the dail is returned, i turn it and it doesn't enter diag mode, it just continues to flash. My old one was a 23710 11U00 MEC R212 B and the one i bought is a 23710-04U02 MEC-R132. Both are from MT RB20DET's they are just from different years, the r132 is a early r32 and the r212b is a late model r32. I am so frustrated because i feel like the ecu is trying to tell me something by flashing the light but i just don't know what it means. Any help is appreciated!

Hey guys, i've had some problems with my old ecu and it finally gave out. It was a MEC-R212B and i bought one from a friend that is a MEC-R132. First off would that cause any problems? Next thing, when i put it in the car and turn the ignition on (not starting the car) the ecu light consistantly blinks, exactly like the long flash when you enter diagnostic mode, it just flashes over and over, no short flashes. Also, i cannot enter diag mode, it just flashes no matter what. So then i figured what the hell crank it and see what it does. Well the car cranks but it won't rev if i give it anything over 50% throttle, below 50% it will rev fine and produce boost. if i try to give over 50% throttle it just stops revving period, no noise it just doesn't go anymore. If anyone has any info regarding the flashing ecu light, or the way the motor is acting, please let me know, i have a volt meter and am capable of testing sensors if i need to, just let me know. Thanks in advance. (btw this is a rb20 in a S13, i live in america.)

what all do you have upgraded and what is your rwhp/rwkw goals? i have an rb20 in a S13 hatch in america. Thanks!