The Dan

I hope you took lots of photos before you slid those pistons out

IBTL

Crank will be cracked. Squirters only break if you put the wrong pistons in or you put them the wrong way around (they have a relief cut out for the squirter)

Page 21? Do you mean 81? It shows page 88 as current. I saw he made that nasty comment on page 86 about that guy and the manifold

Hugs?

Anyway I gotta get back to my 14 hour day of sleeping coz I'm not busy.....at all. Have fun everyone

Shit no. That guy has bad breath. We only deal with minty breathed people

How the f**k did I get dragged into this? I was sleeping on the couch and get woken up coz my ears were roasting. What have I done?

Haha yeah. They look at you funny when you ask for 8m of it though

Also don't forget your starter motor will draw more current in winter and also when the battery is lower in voltage. You need to account for these factors so you don't catch things on fire. Safety first

6 Cyl Starter motors usually draw between 200-400 amps. No amplifier wire is going to cut it. You need minimum 2 gauge battery/starter cable. It's about $10/m at repco from memory

Yes but not likely

Valve stem seals Does it get smoky every time you let it sit for a few mins and then rev it?

6Boost have never been under $1000 to my knowledge

I thought you could only tell an N1 from a standard from the back of the pump

Did you mean 5.2v or 0.52v?

Yeah but what happened to it?

Exactly. Which is why the XR6 Turbo doesn't suffer from these same issues. Finally someone who agrees with me

You knew right then it was love at first type

The pfc readout is fine but using a multimeter is easy too. Signal wire is the centre one. You can easily find power and earth so I don't need to explain that. If not sure, just find 5v, then check the one next to it, it should be 0.4x or whatever it's set to at TPS closed

Blocked CAT?

Just test it with a multimeter...... Also the PFC has a T/POS voltage output on the settings>sensor chk screen If it's at 0.4v then move it to 0.55 and see if it fixes your problem. The TPS is adjustable on the T/body. Just loosen the 2 bolts and turn it to get the desired voltage. Another method is to watch the TPS idle light in the settings. I had to set one at 0.35v the other day so a Nistune would recognise the thing was at idle on the TPS. I argued that the manual requests 0.4-0.6V but at the end of the day, that's what the car wanted and it ran better afterwards

Just join everything at the catch can. All pressure equalises there. You won't need to get a dual outlet on the cam cover, just run it over next to where the cam cover breathers enter the catch can. Running the PCV and the air intake together like you have suggested is the absolute best method. And think of it this way....if you can't get it working, you can always get a job as a graphic artist. Those pics are awesome!

Deadly serious

$600? Thats almost retail price for a new NPC clutch EXACTLY the same spec......NPC also use brand new parts in their clutches unlike Jim refreshing old second hand covers