The Dan

So get into whoretown and post a couple of times. Would take you 5 minutes

No import wrecker is going to give you any guarantee on an engine. And on top of that they know about as much about the internal condition of their engines as you do. Get them to do a compression test in front of you (if the gearbox is still attached and there is oil in the sump. You could also ask them for a startup warranty meaning it has to pass an oil pressure test the first time it starts. But they are likely to say GTFO

*cough* dodgey *cough*

Try searching. There's a whole writeup in the quick reference guide sticky in forced induction

A recirculation valve or air bypass control valve is the same as a BOV or 'blow off valve' so yes it is a recirc valve and it suits a gtr

Sif people drive to Yatala

They go into the standard pump and are of an N1 design. I have used them in the past but they are too expensive. Prefer to make my own now so we have full control over the quality and material used.

They don't make valvoline running in oil anymore. They reckon they changed the name to HP30 or something like that. Royal purple does a running in oil. You pretty much just have to get a cheap oil, preferably mineral, that has no friction modifiers. Jump on the few major oil company websites and have a read about their products. I'm fairly sure most do an oil that suits engine run in.

Actually yes, you are right. R33 RB25DE is sidefeed and R32 RB25DE is top feed. But are you trying to work out differences in general or differences in where it bolts to the head only?

PM Shanef to get an adaptor plate made up. He's got nothing to do these days as he's a dole bludger now so I'm sure he'd be happy to run around and find out the different patterns for you

lol Nah mate, I could be wrong also. I know the guys in NZ - RIPS use the RB25DE heads and manifold because they have the top feed injectors. Not sure on exact CC though. If you really need to know for certain, ring RIPS in NZ, they will definitely know the answer straight away.

Tunnel boring would set you back approx $150-$200 AUD and the rest of the head service including valve regrind etc would set you back approx $500 AUD for them I reckon. Give them a call first though, I know they can tunnel bore 1 inch...well so they have said....but you really need to ring them to confirm first. I have spoken to them about it and they said they could but I never actually got it done as we ended up not needing to.

I'm pretty sure RB25DET and DE are different. DE uses top feed injectors etc. As far as bolt up config, not entirely sure. I've never seen a 20DE Neo but I know they exist. Not sure how different if at all

Ship the head to Jack Brothers Racing here in Aus. They can do the small tunnel bore. Shipping costs would be minimal (~$500 return)

All good. No need to change tuners though. Have found the ones I will be using from now on http://www.efiperformance.com.au/ I don't tune as I don't have a dyno. You may or may not have misunderstood my previous post, though. I wasn't saying that a tuner will bend a rod, what I was saying is that it doesn't matter how many dollars he pours into an engine, it only takes one bad 'tune' (or state of tune - to clarify) to destroy an engine....and no amount of forged parts will save it, they just put up with it for longer before letting go. As for bending rods by detonation...very hard or near impossible as, yes, it will tend to destroy the piston first...but it can bend gudgeon pins and I have seen it a couple of times. Think of the rod bending as an after effect of the engine failure caused by error in 'state of tune'

Well I'm not a typical engine builder but whatever man, you must be right. There's no such thing as detonation. Or incorrect throttle pump settings causing hydraulic lock of a cylinder. Yep, factory rods can withstand all of that. And guess what, it's always the engine builders fault. He snuck in a packet of detonation when he was putting the engine together.

Make sure you get them resized when the new rod bolts go in

Any rod on the market will be ok for the job. Factory rods included. All it takes is a shithouse tune to bend or break them. $5000 rods or $500 rods, they can all bend. Focus more on getting the right tune

What you need to do is confirm the exact colour. Accelerate really fast, then quickly u turn and have a look. Report back ASAP Seriously though, if you're at WOT you are not going to be able to tell the difference between fuel smoke and oil smoke unless there is a MAJOR issue with the engine. Do a compression test...if the results are low, do a leak down test and find out where it's going

I hate you

wtf? double post?

Sounds like a round at the pub to me Either way, I've got a set of Spool rods you are welcome to dispose of for the test. Have you got any standard rods you can part with? Would only need two

I'd take you up on that bet. $5 says they are stronger tuan the stickies. Captain Metalurgy agrees with me too. People just underestimate the stockies, that's all.

The balancer marks never line up on the factory balancers. I think you should either buy a new balancer or just use the mark it lines up on as tdc. I would be very surprised if that balancer had rotated on itself unless it came off a drag car. They are one of the best factory balancers out there and I'm yet to see one that has turned. I've seen them get small cracks in the rubber on the back but not turn

Yes you are right, synchros are probably going to be the problem here but like I said, considering we have a confirmed failure of a part that has a lot to do with how the gearbox will engage gears, it is more practical to replace the known failed part before proceeding further. I think you would agree that if he went out and rebuilt the gearbox, only to find it was a simple solution, that he would be quite upset. It's not a matter of 'replace every problem you see in a car' but moreso assessing the condition and judging whether there are simple resolutions before embarking on an expensive gearbox rebuild. Even if it ends up being synchros, at least when the gearbox is rebuilt, he will have a 100% correctly functioning hydraulic system. New slave cylinders are only $100. Big bore was not necessary and neither was the clutch line, but then again, no one told him to go out and buy anything either.