The Dan

Where did you bring it? Just use the bolts that are already on your car when you replace it with the old one. Clutch kits have never ever come with the bolts. They don't ever come with scopot, rear main seal or flywheel bolts either but you'll need all of that too.

Are you completely missing the unit or do you have one that isn't working? The first option would be to rebuild the one you have. New ones are around $800 from memory. What is wrong with the one you have and what symptoms does it exibit?

Have you considered asking the mechanic who worked in it?

Oh and afm voltage should be 0.4 when engine off and ign on, around 0.6 while cranking and about 1.2-1.6v while running

Should be around 3k ohms cold and 300 ohms hot. Check the signal voltage from the afm. It has little input while the coolant temp sensor is controlling fuel during warm up.

When you say 'service' are you talking about engine or gearbox service? It's most likely gearbox noise going off your description but it would really depend on a few other things and how loud it is. I would say you should start by changing the oil in the box. Use something like an 80w140 Castrol if you can get it. That should silence it. If you were referring to a gearbox service, then the workshop may not have used the correct oil.

Nissan make the best ECU for your application. Go a Nistune or Factory remap.

Does it make the noise when in neutral? and does it make the noise when the car is not moving? Who has diagnosed it as gearbox?

He'll want to run the 2.7" 0.84 with a 3.5 or 4 inch vband. It'll be making about 1 bar of boost at 3500rpm and he should net 600-650 hp on the c16. Probably only 20psi of boost it'll come in at 480hp at the wheels

Oh sorry, my mistake. Replace 'Twin plate clutch' with 'any button clutch'

You are going to get the rattle from any twin plate clutch. It's the gearbox that makes the noise at low rpm, not the clutch.....it's caused by gear chatter.

Nup, definitely a SuperDragon You can see the flame

Keep driving the car like that if you want to melt your ECU, coilpacks, etc...etc...

Yeah, not in the drivetrain and transmission section. Try Forced induction. There is a sticky with everything you need to know.

You can easily tell it's a hks super dragon from looking at the tip

1. It's probably like 3 - 4 days of my time which works out to be about $3k 2. It's not working under normal conditions considering its a RB26/30 3. They could just say I have to prove it wasn't my fault, which there is no way that I can other than going off the other gazillionty timing belts I have done without problems.

Already considered that but it's not really in my best interest (or budget) to chase a large car dealership for around $2000

Go and get an old idler bolt xrayed. You'll never put one back in, I gaurantee it! yes it was.

If you can weld the flanges on yourself. They are $280 with flanges.

Sounds like before it was shit and now it is working properly. The shop who tuned it probably noticed it was shit and then noticed the oil level in the biz was low so topped it up. Have you tried contacting the shop who tuned it?

yeah every valve touched. Decoro valves too. I know what you mean NYTSKY but I can assure you overtension is not a problem. I would have done 20 belts this year alone. Always set them a certain way and double check deflection after 4 rotations. It was a genuine Nissan bolt and washer. The other 10 purchased are aftermarket bolts I'm going to try cryogenic treating them first, then back in for MPI

Hello all, this is something many of you may or may not know about so I thought I would put it up and see what people think. Recently an engine was built by me and the bolt for the idler pulley on the timing belt snapped. This happened about 2000km in (I think). All my engines get new bolts there so it came as quite a surprise. The owner and I decided to investigate. I have never had a new bolt break in this way. He flies aircraft and has contacts for testing bolts etc so we bought 10 8.8 high tensile M10 x 70 bolts and sent them to his guy for MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspection) testing. 7 out of the 10 failed the MPI due to surface irregularities that are at high risk of a crack starting in that area. So we had three we could use on his engine. I decided to send the other 7 off to be treated to see if we can improve the statistics and then have them re-tested. I'll let you all know the result once I have them

Here is the picture. Sorry for the delay. This test was done 5000km after rebuild and 4 oil changes total

I knew you knew