The Dan

Do you reckon everyone will get upset that motul 4100 is actually lubrimaxx and can be purchased for about 75% of the motul price

Must be a good mate if he pays you in that way

Royal Purple R&D their product and and the 10w40 has a higher film strength than Mobil1 also. None of which has anything to do with his pressure. His brand of oil is not the problem.

Suggestions?

Chances are that the oil pressure is fine. The factory sender is known, and well documented, to be problematic. Get yourself a manual pressure gauge or take it to a mechanic for a pressure test. Sandwich plate is not necessary as you can just mount it in the same place the factory one goes. If you want to replace the factory one, they are approx $210 from Nissan.

Lol. Are you being serious? How are you supposed to get an oil pressure reading from the sump?

How much oil are you putting in?

I hope you are talking 400kw? Standard turbos can do 400hp almost. That setup will see you to 600hp at the wheels but make sure your tune and fuel system are both up to scratch as these two items will let you down if you're not careful. 600cc injectors are a tiny bit small for the turbos so monitor your afrs closely and make sure you don't push it past their capability.

Lol. You think that's a rort? To start with, you haven't even stated what car you drive so its hard for anyone to give their opinion. Secondly, the prices you have listed are normal if your car is a 32 or 33 GTST/GTR. 2.5 hrs labour to fit is normal also so I don't know what you think is wrong with the quote?

Yeah a better designed cylinder head and an extra half litre capacity will do that. Have you done any head work? Also, why 600cc injectors with 2871 turbos? That combo should be good for over 700hp so 600cc injectors aren't going to do it justice. How much power did you make at 1.2 bar?

lol. Ever considered......Nissan?

It's not the size....it's how you use it. In my case, it's whoever is around to help me shift it at the time

That's the first 15 minutes taken care of.

Yeah but what I was getting at was that even if you tested it all and on the rig it is ok, you still have to disconnect everything and reinstall the engine into your car. This just leaves yourself open to error or leaks again so it has to be tested twice anyway. I see what you are saying though, just more work involved in building the rig then there would be in having to remove and refit the engine again.

Running the engine to 100 degrees on a test rig doesn't mean that you are going to have it all set up correctly when you install the engine in the car. Why not buy a cooling system pressure tester and an oil pressure tester and do it with the engine in the car. If you do set up a rig, then have a good sized rotor welded to the tailshaft and use a whole gearbox, not just the bellhousing. That way you can set up a basic breaking system and use a 1m bar to crank pressure down to load the engine. Personally I don't see the point as you have to test everything all over again because it's being removed from the rig and installed in the car. If you were building a lot if engines and needed to run them in, I could understand, but for a once off, it seems like a lot of work.

Never use PTFE tape on any oil or fuel connections. Only ever use thread sealant or thread lock like Loctite. That tape shit turns to jelly when combined with fuel or oil eventually.

Forget about the PFC and get a nistune. They are half the price and have the same adjustability. Any aftermarket ecu is going to increase power output as long as the tune is right. Expect around 30 - 40 rwkw gain from the ecu change with a good tune.

Tomei

it would have. Just the big stuff got left behind

Yeah there is a company here in Brisbane that does it. We send the oil in from our track cars after every event. You can buy the kits direct from them and it includes the return post container and clear tube. Return postage is paid in the original amount. I'll post up a scanned report when I get to the workshop so you guys can see what they test for. They test metals down to parts per million and can even tell you if your air filter is dirty or the engine is running too rich.

I wouldn't jump straight on f**ked engine. Just understand that going from your description and based on the experiences I have had, that is my best guess. The only way to tell for sure is to pull it apart or have the oil tested. Obviously it's a lengthy task to pull the engine out to 'possibly find out it was something else. I urge you to consider oil testing as simply looking at the oil that comes out will not always yield accurate results. Even if you don't get the testing done through me, I'll happily give you their contact details so you can purchase your own test kit. It takes about 48 hours and the report is extremely informative. It will take out the guess work. If you go ahead and drain the oil you may upset any chance of getting a clean sample so make sure you get a sample first, then you can at least fall back on that if you have to.

Precisely. Basically on decel it is under load and on accel it is under load. It will only make it around 2500-3000rpm at the beginning stages of a run bigend. If it's like 5 or 6 rapid knocks as it comes past 3k when you blip the throttle then I'd be putting money on bigend. Alternatively, you can send me a 200ml sample of your oil and I can tell you for sure. I have oil tested for our race cars so it's no biggy. It's only $40 and comes with a full written report. You need to run the engine until it reaches operating temp, then either drain oil into an EXTREMELY CLEAN container or suck it out through the dipstick tube using a 3 or 4mm clear tube and a mighty-vac. It will 100% tell you if the engine is fubar or not

The white smoke is called steam and is normal on cold starts The knock you are describing sounds like a bigend. I hope it isn't but every symptom you describe says bigend bearing. It can't be timing because at cruise you'd have to be running somewhere around 50-55deg BTDC for it to ping.

Have you got the fuel lines around the correct way and is there fuel in the tank?

I don't see anywhere in the list Took the car to a qualified mechanic or specialist Have you done that?