The Dan

once again, 1. Don't freeze it 2. OIL the bush, don't GREASE it

1. Don't freeze the spigot. It needs to be an interference fit 2. Sounds like you didn't oil the spigot, so it's going to be dry as a muthaf**ka. 3. Why would you freeze the spigot. I mean, I know why but who gave you that advice? Put the bush on the tip of your pointer finger. Fill it with engine oil right to the top. Then squeaze the top in with your thumb hard until the oil comes out through the sides of the bush. Now look at your properly oiled bush. Then get a 3/8th drive 15 or 16mm deep socket and use the back end of it (where the wrench attaches) to tap it gently into place. You will notice it requires minimal effort. Also, don't use anything but a genuine bush. There is a difference between them and other bushes. Aftermarket bushes are not as high quality.

Look at the slave cylinder. If the slave cylinder is on the engine side of the throwout fork, then it is RB20 or R33 RB25. Then check where the bolts are. Bolts for slave cylinder on same side of slave cylinder is RB25 gearbox, bolts on opposite sides from each other on the slave cylinder is RB20. If the slave cylinder pushes from the rear of the box forward, then it's the Neo RB25 box and you have the pull type clutch

LS80w140 or LS90 and buy 2 Litres. It should take about 1.6L

That is true but poor hydraulic pressure will actually emphasize a slightly worn synchro, even though it may not be near the end of it's life. And it is not so good to assume his synchros are at fault even though it is probably the most likely cause.

Is the clutch engage point near the floor or near the top of the pedal travel. If its near the floor, it could be out of adjustment and be causing the problem you are describing. If it's mid way or near the top then this is not your problem. Line clamp the slave cylinder flex hose and then put your put firmly on the pedal. Note if it sinks or is immediately solid. If it is solid, the the master cylinder is going to be ok. Check the slave cylinder has minimum 12mm of travel when the clutch is depressed. If you have at least 12mm of travel and the slave pushrod is not sinking back into the cylinder, then the problem could eaither be: A grabbing spigot A misaligned/bent clutchplate Worn Synchros

double post

I am suggesting spigot because that is the noise it will make when it is worn or incorrectly installed. The noise is created because the input shaft is allowed to flex too much on the take up point. When you say flex plate, are you referring to the spacer plate for the starter motor locating or a flex plate (which belongs on an automatic) I know probably aren't referring to the latter but correct terminology will help. If the gearbox was not on tight or straight then it would have immediately damaged the spigot bush. The noise will only be there when the input shaft is under high load at only a certain point when it is allowed to move on a horizontal plane. So no, it won't be there all the time. It will only be there when you are halfway through the engage point just as the clutch takes up. Or on decel under the same conditions. You don't still have the auto spigot in place and just bashed the new spigot into the whole did you? I have seen it done before and it just crushes the spigot. You didn't answer the original engine/gearbox question so it's hard to tell. How did you install the bush? Did you lubricate it correctly?

Then the spigot was damaged on installation. Who installed it and is the engine the same one from the car? Is the flywheel the same one the car came with? And how shagged was the old spigot and in what way was it shagged?

The spigot bush is worn out or missing

I doubt that turbo would get you 700 as the turbine is small. It will choke a little bit. In reality, I think 550rwhp would be the absolute most you'd get from it. I hope you get more but due to the specs, I don't see it happening.

Sounds like you have the turbine wheel of a GT3076 700177-11 which is sizes : EX: 53.6mm and IN: 56.5mm You have reported the wrong measurements for inducer and exducer. It can't have a bigger exducer on the turbine than the inducer. And you also have the comp wheel off a T04Z. So I would say a fairly responsive 600hp turbo

If it's 60mm inducer on the comp and 60mm exducer on the rear then it's going to be a 3076R comp wheel and a 3582R Turbine. If it's been built by Ray Hall then the tag will only tell you what core it has. Like Ash said, you need to measure the wheels. And not with a ruler. Pull the covers off and measure the inducer and exducer of both and I can tell you exactly how much power the turbo will make and how it will perform. Going off those measurements, though, it's no wonder that turbo belongs on a drag car. The comp wheel is not as big as a 3082 and the turbine is larger. So it's a bit of a weird setup.

700177-14 is a Garrett GT3082R If you used google you would find that very easily

Completely normal. When partial throttle opening is made, the engine will not create a resistance to air flow. It will only make pressure when the engine is under load.

And to add to that, any bore gauge under $500 I wouldn't trust

+1 ^ And just because it's digital, does not mean it is more accurate. Tap in on the bench and it could go out of calibration. Same with anything really, I just like to be able to see the dial so probably just personal preference really. If it's a bore gauge, then it will probably only go down to 2inch (50mm) which means you won't be using it on any RB engine really. It will only do the bore, or the mains. Or the big ends on a 30 but with no bearings in place. Spend the coin on a good set of Mitutoyo micrometers from 1-2inch and 2-3inch. Let your engineer do the bore work

or you could just buy the correct pump and not have to drill anything

Yes I know what you meant. The answer is the same

Do you want my bank account details then?

There is no telling when it will go bang. Some people have blown them up at less power output than that, others have them over 350rwkw without issues. It's not exactly the power that kills them, it's the rpm you take it to. Anything over 7k on the standard rod bolts and you're asking for trouble. I would even be inclined to keep it at 6500rpm to be safe and just enjoy what power you can make up to that point. No you cannot just drop the sump and change them. Well you can but it will not last very long. Rods need to be resized which means complete engine strip apart.

Yep, sounds like it's gone. Better rebuild it now as no engine can withstand 200,000kms on 11psi.

Don't get your hopes up. Looks like it might be for a few days yet. My site was one of the first to go down. Moved to a new host in the meantime

Holy jesus! $159/hour? I don't even think Nissan charge that high. How can they justify that much? I do clutch installs on GTR's for $308 which works out to be 3.5hrs at $88/hour. I could get away with maybe $100-$110/hour but that's kinda ridiculous for grease monkey work. If it were for diagnostics using expensive equipment or dyno tuning where the dyno costs have to be factored in, you could understand. I hope you can get it sorted out mate, for $159/hour I would expect there to be a decent warranty policy involved.

I think it was a question, not a statement. It is extremely likely the plate has been bent by hanging the box off it. It will also cause the exact same symptoms you are describing.