The Dan

They are all exactly the same. Why go out and buy GTR or Neo rods when you can just use the rods you have in the engine already? Oblivion makes almost 300rwkw on standard rods in his RB25 with ARP bolts. His limitation is that he has standard injectors but it's still a strong engine and capable of well over that. The weakest link in the RB engine is the factory rod bolts. Replace them and get a good tune and there is no reason why 400rwkw is not out of the question in a reliable engine. Only 4 things will break these rods at those power levels: 1: Severe detonation 2: Stretching the bolts by over revving 3: Oil starvation causing the bearing to run, then seize. 4: Incorrect resizing or assembly of the rod or rod/piston

10mm

Standard rods will definitely do the job. Just make sure you get them resized and replace the rod bolts with ARP items. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter if you get titanium rods or stay with the standard ones. If your tuner mucks up, it's all over anyway. Spend more money tuning the engine than you think necessary. Don't get this mixed up with going to the highest price tuner though. Depending on where you are, there are plenty of great tuners around. Status Tuning down south EFI Performance and Gavin Wood in Brisbane Could name more but I don't really trust anyone else.

You heard incorrect information then

Nice time today! It was shame about the dial-out. We almost got Theo up and going for the Qualify too but ran out of time so he didn't get to run again which is a shame. What did Mark run again? 7.8 or something, that's pretty decent. When's he swapping out for a slider clutch to knock another second off?

Around $1100-$1300 is what I would set aside for a synchro and bearings change. Have done many before but each one is different.

Wow, hasn't been closed so I thought I'd add. By your cousins reasoning, even having 4 valves per cylinder is fake. It's all about efficiency. Making an engine more efficient is the key. They used to think having more cylinders and bigger capacity was the way to do it. Turbochargers only make up for the lack of cylinders and make an engine more efficient. Honda perfected engine efficiency in their S2000 engine which was stated earlier. Tell your cousin that when he can stop his knuckles from dragging on the ground for a second, he will be halfway to being equiped to make an arguement. But remember....never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

But seriously, each to their own. Some people will tell you there is no difference, some will say it makes a massive difference, 99% of them probably haven't gone from one to the other on the exact same car so aren't really fit to comment. Personally, I don't think there is a difference as with an internal gate you are fairly restricted in the power you can make anyway so flow at that point is not really a concern. Get whatever is cheapest and/or the most shiney.

Error 3312

So you have a 5 gear set in the standard case? Who supplied the synchros and are they genuine items?

Generally 3-4 years or 80k for a standard car. 2 years and 40-60k on something modified.

Your gearbox may be nearing the end of it's life. When it is temperature biased, it usually means the synchro is quite worn.

It's a standard push arrangement. If you do what I was telling you to with the fork, then you will be able to tell what carrier they used. Check to make sure the fork (where it touches the slave pushrod) can be pushed back into the slave cylinder. If you can do this, then the carrier in there will be fine. If you can't, then it means the carrier has butted up against the snout of the gearbox. This doesn't usually cause the problem you are having....normally it will cause the clutch to disengage as the bearing will be pusing against the spring slightly. As the clutch wears and the spring moves further towards the carrier and bearing, the bearing has nowhere to go so it just keeps pushing against it causing the clutch to slip and wear out very quickly. Sometimes you can have the issue where the spring goes over-centre which means you are pushing it that far, that when it has lifted the clutch plate off the flywheel, it then starts pushing the clutch down again. This is also easy to check as you can just push the clutch pedal 3/4 of the way down and see if it goes into gear. I would still put my money on adjustment. It is by far the most common thing I see with people who don't know what they are doing. They just keep adjusting the pedal thinking it will give them more travel, but they don't realise they have already blocked the recovery port and no amount of adjusting will get them anywhere. Get them to back off the adjustment completely.....all the way out. Then start from scratch. The clutch should have come with it's own carrier anyway. I'm pretty sure all ORC and OS Giken clutches that require the shorter carrier are supplied in the kit. You still haven't confirmed if it's a twin or single plate clutch either. If it's a single plate, none of this carrier shit matters. I'm too lasy/busy to look it up

I mean, you sound like you are going to just see how it goes. Soon enough you will find out if it has damaged the clutch/flywheel or the spigot/input shaft. If I paid someone to do a job I would expect that it get's done properly or it gets fixed as soon as possible if it is not right. I give my customers no less. If it is still not right after they have tried twice, then you should have a serious talk with them about it. They shouldn't be giving the car back like that as it could do damage to other parts....it may not either but the chances are still quite high

+1 on spigot bearing causing the input shaft to keep spinning. did they change it? I would not drive the car like that. It will not 'bed in' it will only damage the clutch or wear it out prematurely. Also if they have not installed the cover properly they could have distorted the plate or diaphram. If they hung the box on the input while trying to line it up, they could have bent the plate also. This can cause the same issues. You'll find out soon enough though

There is 2 different carriers for 32 GTR's. Long and short. I haven't looked up the 709D clutch as I have no time but if it's a twin, usually it's the short one that's harder to find. The short one has to be fitted with all OSGiken clutches along with the OS Bearing but not sure on the ORC stuff. You may have the shorter carrier and need the long one. The long one will make the bearing closer to the spring and give you full travel of the slave cylinder against the clutch. If this is your problem, and you want to save time, pull out the slave cylinder push rod, get a bolt (10mm diameter) that is approx 10mm longer than the factory push rod (65mm from memory), cut off the head and grind a round edge on both ends, replace the pushrod with that and shorten in 1-2mm increments until it is perfect. the easiest way to diagnose a short carrier when a long one is needed is to push the throwout fork so it moves the bearing against the clutch spring, then note the distance between the pushrod end and the fork. If there is a large gap there, then the carrier needs to move closer to the clutch. If the pushrod is pushed way back into the cylinder, then it's too long etc. Hope this helps

Where are you located? Your problem could be: Bearing carrier height Throwout bearing type Clutch pedal adjustment Master or Slave cylinder primary seal fault If it's master or slave cylinder fault, then you should be able to pump the pedal 5 or 6 times and it will then engage, then slowly lose pressure and pull the car forward. Clutch pedal adjustment is the most common error made by mechanics. If they have adjusted it too far, then it will block the recovery port in the master cylinder and will always try to pull the car forward and not go into gear properly. If they have not adjusted it far enough, then it will do the same as far as the pedal goes but because it's not getting enough throw in the slave cylinder. If they have used the wrong bearing it would be a problem also but less likely. The carrier is important, from the kits I have seen, the carrier is longer than the factory item

Have used Lightweight Shockproof in many 33's without issues of any kind. 100% of the time the customer reports smoother shifting. Heavy shockproof will cause a notchy shifting feel

You want performance...buy a manual

Tiptronic IS semi-automatic It's an Automatic gearbox that can be manual shifted also. I'm pretty sure all of the auto 34's / Stags were Tiptronic

Why not just diagnose the problem correctly and fix the actual problem instead of just replacing every possible part until you finally get it?

Could be low compression on one cylinder, better rebuild the engine to be sure

Well the shim costs about $4. The rest is in your hands. If you pull out the diff yourself (approx 1.5hrs) then it would take someone approx 30 minutes to throw it in. If you pull out the diff yourself and do the shim yourself, then you pay no labour, just the $4 If you get someone else to do the lot, then approx 2hrs labour.

+1 And drilling the block is not such a good idea. I now there are people who will say 'but I've done it and never had an issue' but it does weaken the block and is not completely necessary. You can just use the 25 studs but it is advised to have ARP washers with a larger OD to suit the head.

FT on the pinion nut and buy some bearing blue. You can't just do them to torque and expect it to be correct. With bearing blue, you can see where the teeth run.