The Dan

No actually the remap stuff is done live also. Dr Drift developed the system to be able to do this. Has been doing it long before Nistune even existed

Yes you can. Pull it apart and put a thicker shim on the side opposite the viscous coupling. I usually put a 1.4mm (thickest) as they are normally around 1.2 - 1.26(?) so it tightens it up enough not to be bullshit locked all the time but still really good.

How much did it set you back for the clutch do you mind me asking?

Block VCT oil port in head and block = RB26 gasket Not blocked = RB25 Gasket

Hell yes! Give the guys at EFI Performance (QLD) or Dr Drift (VIC) a call tomorrow and ask them for details.

They are aligning with the national standard in 18 months but if you get a blue plate now and it has written there that you have an aftermarket ECU, in 18 months when they introduce the standard, you will be ok to keep it. Anyone after the standard is introduced will not be able to have an aftermarket ECU fitted. There is currently no emmissions testing in QLD so for the time being we are safe. I got this info from DOT and the guy who writes my blue plates.

Rewind a couple of days/weeks back to when you gapped the plugs. Undo that, put back the standard coils, put your original AFM in, put in the original PTU and wiring and actually diagnose the problem first....then replace parts. First...locate the missfiring cylinder. Do a search and you find plenty of info on how to do this. Once the cylinder is found, there will only be fuel, spark or compression causing it to missfire, do some test to find out which and you're home and hosed.

Put your microtech inside a standard ECU case. Coppers won't know what the hell they are looking at. Or move to queensland where it's not against the 'law'

Two on each back corner of the back of the cylinder head...what's the bulkhead?. They hold the head down at the corners of the oil and water galleries.

No, it'll foul the spark plugs. There are two hoses. One large one (approx 1 inch diameter) that goes back in front of the turbo, and the vacuum hose that went to the top of the valve. You need to block both

You blocked off the return pipe from the BOV back to the intake right? And as if it's not for hektik flutterz. You could just remove the gasket, trace it, and put it back on. But you have chosen to drive it around for a 'few days' like this. I'm calling you out as a ricer!

Have you considered MTQ engine systems? They are the largest Garrett distributor in the country. Well equiped to fix anything and most likely cheaper

The bar can't come around the engine bay if it's under the chassis rail. Try it the other way at your own risk. Don't say you weren't warned though. I still advise using the Power-bar over the breaker bar under the chassis rail method but when you don't have the tool, then that's the next best way of doing it without damaging anything. Exactly. It's not a breaker bar unless it's at least 1m long

The reasoning is to stop the engine from turning over - or at least attempt to...and manually turn the breaker bar to undo the nut Nothing wrong with putting the breaker bar under the driver's side (for right hand drive cars) chassis rail and flicking the key. Have done it that way many times with great success. It's doing it back up that the Power-bar comes in handy

Use a tool called a Power-bar. It is available from Repco, made by ABW and costs around $140. Will undo and do up. GTR's are a flamin mongrel of a thing and 32's being the worst, can take some hammering before they budge. Have only had to pull back the a/c twice before but if it's been a dockside ornament for a while then the rust can set in.

Get them from Nissan, it's cheaper. 4hrs is generous. Lol. 3hrs until you break one. Then add at least half hour per stud.

You guys have obviously never undone the balancer bolt on a 32 GTR before. Yes it may work 1 / 10 times. The rest you need a special tool and a big hammer and smash away at it for a half hour or a 3/4 inch rattle gun and remove the aircon. If it's been off before, then it is usually easier to get undone. And NEVER EVER EVER suggest putting the car in gear with the handbrake on and undoing it that way. With a 1m breaker bar you can create more torque than your engine can produce and then say goodbye to your gearbox. I've seen it happen a couple of times by mechanics I used to work with. It does happen and it happens very easily.

It really depends on other things. Is the noise there all the time but goes away (like it winds down to a stop) when you put the clutch in? If so, then it is very possible you have worn the hard casing off the cluster and input shafts. This usually happens with poor oil selection and high speeds or running the gearbox low on oil. They are literally throw away at this point as the noise will always be there....even if you put new bearings in. If it's getting noisier, the higher the gear, then I would suggest a bearing on the output shaft If it's noisy in all gears except 4th then it will be a bearing on the cluster shaft. It's not a simple and straight forward job all the time, you need special tools and a swear jar to make yourself rich. I would at least get the gearbox out, strip the casing off and inspect the cluster and input shafts. If they have wear marks in the leading face of the gear, then it's cactus And it's a nice engine bay mate, but seriously, it's an RB...I could have the gearbox off that in less than 30 minutes on a hoist. It won't take you long at all. Drop the engine crossmember down an inch or so to help with any clearance issues.

Try to get one of the standard turbos and put it up as a comparison

I can assure you, they don't snap easily. My arm is HUGE and I haven't broken one yet. BTW, both my arms are huge, not just one!

Yeah I was thinking that too. 3076 with a 2876 comp and cover or 3071 comp and cover. At any rate, the 3071-20 is the 3037S turbo is it not?

I'm pretty sure that's just a normal off the shelf item from Garrett. Very overpriced too. They're at least a few hundred cheaper locally. Who is Brett?

The bearings are only about $200-$250 (don't replace the needle rollers unless they are damaged or broken). There is no gasket kit required...use 3 bond for the whole lot. Synchros are about $4-500 and you will need a reverse gear bush puller and a 5th gear bush puller. Both tools are not available from Nissan. They don't even know how to get them. You can try your luck though. They are about $500-$600 for the pair If you want to cut off the gear bushes for reverse and 5th, the new bushes will set you back about $200 for the pair. The gearbox will take no more than 3 hours to r and r if you are doing it on a hoist, 4-5 hours on the ground depending on how it was installed etc. Rebuild can take 4-6 hours depending on how bad it is.

Well I can tell you now, I won't be shopping at ok-jordan.com because they sound like SHIT! I want to go somewhere that will send me the shoes I order, not something different. Thanks for the heads up on the shit company mate!

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