The Dan

Would he be coming out at any time between film replacement?

You forgot about the valve seats

Morning Paul.....+1

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing. The CAS has a two key drive. One is a D drive (which is what snaps when you do what he did, and the other is a star. You can still mount the CAS in place on the star drive and it will happily function correctly. Unless, of course, he has also snapped the star drive off as well but I've never seen anyone do that before.

It won't have 'disabled' the CAS. You can still use it on the camshaft, you just have to make sure it goes back in the right position.

It doesn't matter, the neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the ECU loom. Bridge the neutral safety switch and it should crank over.

Because you drove the car with the new battery. If the alternator was not charging it would slowly discharge the battery. Also, the diodes inside can cause current draw problems when they fail. But if you have a new one, then that is most likely to not be your problem. Do as suggested, current draw test, find what is sucking out the power.

1000rwhp will not break a 25 gearbox. It will not break a 26 gearbox either....as long as it's new. It also depends on how you treat it. What usually happens is the synchros wear out, the further they wear, the more they move away from each other. The shifter clips in between them drop out and get munched in between the gears. Sudden shock loading will also send them packing. I would suggest a complete cryo treatment of the diff and gearbox, complete rebuild of the lot and you would be ok as long as you don't flat shift or slam gears. If you want the extra security, get an OS Giken 6 speed sequential. They are only about $14k and are good for up to 1400hp

Then again, if you know what you are doing, Specialised Power Porting are, I think, one of the only ones who do it

I don't think it's such a good idea to get a turbine housing extrude honed. You will disturb the wheel/housing clearance and the turbo will become unresponsive.

The 25 and 26 gearboxes are exactly the same. As is the diff and shafts as far as strength is concerned. How much hp are you chasing?

1000

And to add to all that, if you are using the LM1 unit and the wideband sensor they supply with it, you cannot run it in the dump pipe as the gas flow is too fast for one particular sensor. If you get the other sensor, then you can do it in the dump but the one they send you sucks wang for dump pipe measurements and it stalls on rich. EG. as soon as boost comes on it just stays at 11.7 but put it in the tailpipe and it reads 12.2 and fluctuates as it goes richer or leaner. The holes in the end point outwards and are small so they don't gather the gases like the other sensor does. I think the Techedge one is better for that reason.

If you took measurements from a car from the tailpipe, then from the bung before the catalyst, do you actually notice any difference in AFR? I didn't think any o2 sensor is that sensitive that it could measure the difference? The catalyst removes oxygen from the oxides of nitrogen and then combines the oxygen with the carbon monoxide to create carbon dioxide. So it really only takes the oxygen from one place and puts it in another and both before and after the cat, the wideband doesn't recognise the gases before they are split with their other particle. Or are you referring to it effecting the result in that it is slower, not so much changing the reading?

Well played sir

Or buy a decent new one. Chances of buying a single GTR BOV are slim. Most people would sell them as a pair...if at all, considering the quality of the unit. The air bypass control valve is designed to protect the turbo from heavy surge on throttle close. Keep one there.

^^ that...or your alternator could be fubar

It's probably not so much to get that extra 2% but to ensure that the engine lasts longer than 2% of the time. When you have high temps in one cylinder, you can find out why before you melt a piston. An 02 sensor in the tailpipe will only tell you a combination of all cylinders. Most factory tunes are done by individual EGT's when the engines are run in. It is the most accurate way to tune an engine. Even if you only have it attached when you are tuning, it's going to save a lot of time, money and headaches. I'm pretty sure they only cost about $800-$1000 to set up completely so it's not that much when you consider how many dollars go into some engines.

No, it does not effect the readings. As long as the cat is not blocked, but then again, if it were blocked, you'd have trouble starting the engine

An even better method is to use thermo sensors for each manifold runner. You can more accurately tune this way as AFR sensors can be a bit laggy or problematic with readings when high flow and temperature is involved

I don't know what you are going on about then. Turn the balancer back a couple of mm and the cams will line up and so will balancer. It's a 2mm wide line matching up with a 3mm wide lump in the cover. All the marks line up in those photos, except the cams are a mm or two off. Or did you take the photo after moving the balancer? Don't forget the backing plate is mounted on rubber grommets so it can be off by a mm or two also.

+11ty to the power of sik

Small drops of water or a grain of sand can do the same damage

And also the fact that this guy has not posted one single picture of the balancer mark or the cam gear area. How are we supposed to know he is actually reading the marks correctly? Post up pics.

It does come with wheels. No, they are VSR balanced already. No you should support the forum traders