The Dan

Umm, if your settings were back to base map and you have 555cc injectors, then it would run rich, not lean. What exactly is the problem? Missfire? Could have just fouled a plug. You would have had to be hammering the f**k out of it to melt a piston with a lean out. If you were running the engine in, then I would have to ask...why?

Factory lines are 5/16 or 7.9mm

Don't go off the balancer mark. Line it up first, then see where the cam gears are. Once again, dodgey way to do it, but if you can't pull the balancer off then that's all you got. If it's out, then you have to pull it off anyway

Yeah, on those, the first mark = 0 and it lines up with the notch on the cover. You have to look at it with your head above the power steering pump though. Don't look at it straight down from the centre.

No. There is a dot on the lower timing belt gear and it lines up with a notch on the oil pump. Lining it up via the balancer is dodgey to say the least. What balancer do you have? What engine and what model car?

See Performance Wholesale about ROSS Racing pistons. They do them for RB20 and are a great piston. They come with Mahle rings so an overall good package

The pipes in the kit already have a large lump on the ends. Just get some better clamps and make sure the pipes are in far enough.

It's more accurate overall. Only if you have an aftermarket ECU. It means you can eliminate cooler efficiency as a variable in most cases. It also stops the overfueling on throttle off with an atmo bov like you said.

There are other benefits like better air mass readings due to temperature differences. I used to run 1.4bar through mine for a couple of years no problems

Cool! Is this the advertising thread? I've got a truckload of stuff I want to sell. Or can I piggy back off the headlight one? Or should we pay the trader fee like the traders have to?

Which one's are blowing off exactly? The metal black one from the turbo or the longer one into the engine? Or the 90 degree rubber bend on the end of those pipes? Or the new pipes that came with the kit? If you didn't cut 1 inch out of the long pipe then it won't fit. I assume you did as it doesn't go together without doing so.

I fit one of these last week to an R33 and they aren't a direct fit. I spoke with JJ about it and they said they fit more to 34's than 33's and don't have a problem. The intercooler sits 1 inch over towards the drivers side so what you need to do is cut the mount on the top and weld it back on 1 inch over and then cut 1 inch out of the longer pipe before the first bend. This not only centralises the intercooler but it also makes the shorter pipe better able to go directly into the factory one in the engine bay. Previously it went in at an angle. After moving the intercooler across, it went in no problems. As stated above, also make sure all the pipes are pushed into the factory rubber bends enough. If they aren't pushed in enough, they will continue to blow out.

Why not just gap the BKR5E-11's down to 0.8mm instead of going out and buying a whole new set? If it's not an ignition problem then it's going to be fuel or timing. If the timing has not been touched, then check to make sure the filter has been done and the pump is working correctly. If you don't have the tools to check fuel flow or pressure, then take it somewhere that does. And if you are running stock boost - as stated above - then it is extremely unlikely your problem lies in the ignition system, especially considering you changed the coils out.

Sounds like you've blown a cooler pipe off

yes

What do you mean 'get everything working' ? All you had to do is unplug the solenoid and the VCT stops working. I told you that way back in the beginning. If you wanted to change the cam gear to a non-vct, then that is fine, that's all you have to do. The solenoid just sits there, not doing anything. You don't need to block off anything or change anything.

Point 3 needs to be covered. How do you know it's hotter than NORMAL, unless you know that actual temperature. The fact is, even a standard RB engine is usually too hot to touch anywhere once it's been for a 10 minute drive. I'm guessing yours is the same, but if you can take a temp reading with a laser pointer or temp gauge on a multimeter, then I will be able to tell you if it's normal or not.

How hot is it getting? In degrees celcius please. And not coolant temp, actual engine temperature ie. rocker covers, or engine block etc.

lol, I see your dilema. Have you considered getting it done by someone in Canberra? That's a normal price. The collar can be shipped to you for little over $100 and your engineer will have no problems fitting it. ~$100-$140

yeah, poor state of tune, not poor tune. Fuel pump failure, Injector malfunction, too much boost, incorrect engine assembly. Where did the missing chunk go from that piston? and got any better pictures of the damage yet?

CNC 4340 Crank collar supplied and fitted is $240

Nothing wrong with running an engine in on stock turbos. My money is on the engine failure causing the turbo failure. The turbo did not do the damage in that first picture. That was caused by a poor state of tune.

Good luck with that one. I forsee a long future of huge problems for you with this. I hope it all works out but personally I would advise against it considering you can easily get the correct piston for the job. By taking 1mm off the piston you will be altering the design of the crown. You can have it machined to be identical but by the time you've done it and stuffed around for a couple of weeks, you would easily be half way to a new set. You also reduce the amount of material on the top of the piston which is not such a good idea. It is possible to do it and most manufacturers leave some room to move but it's better if you don't, if you don't have to. When it is all done and finished, you will be bitterly disappointed with the result as it won't give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit. Your cheap stroker will turn into an expensive waste of time.

Yeah but you are going to have the problem of the piston touching the cylinder head. The pin height is different between RB26 and RB25 so the RB25 piston is going to stick out the top of the bore

That's a 2mm longer stroke. You'd be looking at a half point right there, depending on gasket thickness and squish area modifications.