The Dan

Just mod the stock one but make sure you know what you are doing. If you don't silver solder correctly, they can blow out etc. If you are running the stock injectors then don't bother. If you are running larger injectors there are some benefits but don't go butchering the stock one because you think you are going to get massive gains from it....you won't. At most it's a small insurance to ensure even injector flow.

email replied to. Sorry, was out fitting an engine tonight and only just got back. The transmission (or gearbox) oil will not cause the problem you are experiencing. Smell, vibration on take-off, slipping when taking off are all signs of a worn clutch. It may not be this but I would still suggest this is your problem. How did they test your clutch? It is also possible you have a sticking clutch cylinder but very unlikely. Would be interested to see how this one pans out as it doesn't sound like your every day sort of problem.

No, T3 and T25 are both 4 bolts, rectangular. T25 is smaller. The turbo on your R33 and R34 are both T3 flange. A GT-RS is usually T25 but you can opt for a T3 flange from HKS when buying them. If you are buying it second hand, then measure the centre-of-hole to centre-of-hole dimensions and I can tell you which one it is

You will need to make sure the GTRS housing is going to suit the wheel size you will be using in the highflow. If not, then it could foul or have too much clearance. If you are going to highflow the turbo anyway, there is no point getting a different housing. The one on there is going to flow the same as a GTRS anyway, possibly more. And is it a GTRS T25 flange or T3 flange?

Sounds like clutch to me.

It's been a slow year.

We have already established that they are Series2 coils.

They don't stumble unless there is another part of the system that has a hiccup and they don't lose their tune every 3-6 months. Talk to Matt Spry, Peter from Pro-Torque, BPS etc. If you take your car to a decent tuner who knows the system well, then you shoulnd't have any problems. They are simple, yes, but if you don't know them well, they are even simpler - and the results will speak for themselves. That runs true for any EFI management system. Of all the RB's running Microtech's that I know of, none of them share the symptoms you speak of. There was a couple of instances where the Microtech lost some data a while back in their earlier days but it's not every unit that does it. You could hang shit on Haltech for their crappy MAP sensor too but just because a couple of people have issues doesn't mean the product is a bad one. I prefer not to use Microtech on RB's but when a customer brings me his/her car with Microtech in hand, I don't judge them or their product, I choose to make it work. Engo has started out with a Microtech, and probably due to the bad words from forum users, he has ditched it when all he really needs is to have a decent tuner. PowerFC have the well known miss also but I know some tuners who can prevent that from happening. Then on the other side, sometimes it's the owners hardware at fault too.

You wasted your time typing the post in the first place, so why not explain why Microtech's are not suited to RB engines? And Engo's feedback will not tell you anything because he probably never got it tuned by someone who knows microtech and will probably take it to someone who does know how to tune PowerFC. I'd direct you to a couple of R33's running Microtech and an RB25 Silvia that does pretty well....and the Silvia runs an LT10S, not a 12. Still does it's job very well. It all comes down to the tuner. But you probably don't want to waste your time learning something new anyway.

The oil pressure sensor gallery is adequate to feed the turbo with enough oil. Just get the biggest ID size you can in there. The turbo (depending on type) should have the restrictor built in or at least run a restrictor smaller than 1/8th anyway...common restrictor sizing for ball bearing is 0.8-1.0mm and for journal bearing around 1.5-2.0mm...so both are much smaller than that feed line.

Care to elaborate on that thought?

Was it the Catfish?

Catfish?

Three Legged Amplifier Dog

WTF? Why are we talking about external wastegates now? You asked about the vacuum line to your old ECU....run it wherever you want. Block it off if you want. If you need a vacuum source for the external gate then use it for that. Why talk about the ECU if you really want to know about your gate?

And I already answered you question on the vacuum line. Vacuum line goes to the microtech because it has an internal MAP sensor. MAP sensors require a vacuum source. Your FC doesn't have a map sensor so it doesn't need the vacuum line.

Yeah, riiight. So has anyone got any actual knowledge on the microtech or are we all just shootin shit in the breeze? I think you said it in your quote Ash, 'add in someone that might only touch one every few weeks and you'd be better off with a stock ECU' and that runs true for any ECU. Microtech are just as capable as any other unit. They don't have as many outputs as some of the other units but as far as fuel and timing control goes...well capable. And yes...the microtech was originally designed for use with rotary engines but that was in the early days. They do the same as any other basic unit and suit any application.

Because the Microtech has an internal map sensor. The FC uses the factory MAF meters. Why on earth would you get a PowerFC when you have a Microtech already? To use the FC you will need to install the AFM's

I'm bettin S1 but you need to answer my question to know for sure.

Those pictures are blurry. You can't tell which they are. Do they have 3 bolt holes or 4 bolt holes holding them in? 3 = S2, 4 = S1

On paper yes but I have never seen a 20 or 25 take less than 4.8L with filter and come up to the full mark after starting. Always put in 5L and you can't go wrong. A little over does more good than bad.

Yes, it is possible to do a lot of damage if you only have 3L oil in there.

Do you have power to the injectors? Do you have power to the coilpacks? Get yourself a good quality LED test light and probe into the pink trigger wire at the coil pack to see if the ECU is putting out a signal. The fact that you have neither injector pulse or spark usually means it's something to do with the CAS (trigger) You can check the 1deg and 120deg signal with the test light also. Turn on the ign and check for power at the cas. Once you know the power feed, the one next to it is the earth, the next is the 120deg signal and the last is the 1deg signal. Could be the other way around on the last two can't remember. But it doesn't matter, as long as you are getting a pulse out of both of those wires while cranking. If you are, then look to the ECU and make sure it's all plugged in correctly.

Using the search function would also reveal this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...on-t115690.html read all of it and you will find your answer

Can you post up a couple of pics of how you have it wired and I might be able to tell you.