The Dan

Like this 3Rm2QlYITSk Well that's how we do it on SAUQLD.com ....anything else is just not the same

How suss is this!

Yeah Mahle make all the rings that come in ROSS piston sets for the RB engine and ACL also (because they are just a ROSS piston and Mahle own ACL now too) . JE use total seal in some of their applications but not all. You work for performance wholesale don't you? Check with ROSS when you are back at work.

You've wired it wrong

Just like to add also, Mahle supply the rings for ROSS/ACL pistons. They also do them for JE I think but not 100% on that.

Yeah I rate them pretty highly. They aren't a slipper piston like the Mahle Motorsport ones but about as good as you can get when it comes to a straight forgie. Extremely high quality finish and good technology on the ring lands and gas pressure relief groove. The Race Series pistons are made by ROSS in the USA. These guys have their stuff in all the NASCAR and Circuit stuff going on over there, same as JE etc. I wouldn't say Mahle are better but definitely one of the best street/track pistons you can get. Mahle are more suited to track stuff due to the design.

Around 200-215rwkw

Sounds like the power steering cooler. It does a loop on the driver's side in front of the radiator?

Yeah mate, that is correct. You have a short circuit somewhere. Check the wiring under the dash for any bare wires. If it only happens when you turn the IGN on to POWER (just before crank) , then check all the big stuff under the dash. If it's blowing when you turn on to ACC then it could be something like fuel pump, stereo, blah blah anything really. Disconnect the ECU and turn the IGN on, it will rule out the fuel system. If the fuse stays alive, you know where to start looking. If it still dies, keep looking. Sorry, that's all the advice I can give without seeing the car or having more information. Good luck!

I understand what you are saying but I don't make the rules, it is a known fact that it will cause cavitation. And the pumps flow 4-4.5L min under no load. I seriously doubt his problem has anything whatsoever to do with hot fuel. It could do but I have never experienced a 'hot fuel' issue in any of the 044 setups I have done. Even with two of them going in our 600+ hp track car, the fuel does not get hot to the extent it will cause this problem or any problem for that matter. Have you done a fuel pressure test while under load? And noted the results when the problem is occurring? That would be a place to start I would think.

When you fill your car up at the petrol station. Ever notice when the pump clicks and the fuel stops? Same thing. Let it settle for 10-15 seconds and you can start pumping again. That's what happens when you jet the fuel in at high speed. It cavitates.

Castor rod bush is split. It's a voided bush so it has oil inside. When the bush cracks, oil leaks out. Easy to see without having to jack up the car. It's a long rod that connects the front crossmember to the lower control arm. The bush is large and round

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Going to SR20DET injectors is not really an upgrade unless you put in the S15 ones. And yes, you will need an ECU or equivalent to adjust the fuel mapping to suit the larger injectors.

I didn't pick you for the 'my camshafts are secret spec' type Paul? Never had to turn them before and didn't have any issues with the crank clearance either. I did space the jet away by 1mm and have taken 1mm out of the piston skirt only. It cleared with the spacer but notching the piston was as a safety. Have had no issues spinning it up to 400rwhp and engine has 20,000k on it now. But good advise is always taken on board so I'll check out that method on the SR I'm doing at present.

Mahle don't recommend anything in regards to material removal. You only have to take away 2mm from the skirt to make them fit. Using washers to space them up can be risky but if you choose the right washer material and don't go too thick, then yeah...can be done that way also. Have never had an issue before with piston modification as long as it is done correctly. Who are you again?

8's are fairly cold for regular skylines. Try R5672A-7. They don't have an extended electrode but work well in the skyline when an 8 is too cold. Have used them in a few cars now without any adverse effects.

How do they 'flow' better? Or are you joking?

Good thinking. Yeah that works too

Why are they shit? lol I heard GTR's were shit, you should get rid of it and buy a corolla

I don't know of any differences in the blocks. I'm sure there are but I've never done the research on it. I would say the main differences are going to be on the water pipe directions/configuration. Other than that, they are all identical. Which means it does not matter if you have neo block or non-neo block....all as good as the other. You can put a neo head on a 33 block and essentially...it's a Neo.

Usually when the pump becomes noisy it is because of the cavitation. When using an EFI pump for a lift pump the fuel is pumped in at such a high speed that it cavitates the fuel. The air is then sucked in by the main pump which causes it to be loud. I usually use Carter for the lift pump. They pump 100gallons per hour at low pressure.

75T 12 is not Neo. It's regular RB25

Yes!!!!!!!!!!! you will !!!!! need to rebalance!!!!!!!!!!!! them!!!!!!

And as for squirters. Keep them there. Take your pistons to a good engineer and have them machined or ground to relieve the oil squirter clearance.