The Dan

Yeah Arias are quite good if you want uneven bore sizes and massive differences in weight. There are no rules saying you can't file a standard ring. If you buy a piston set that comes with recommended rings and their gaps, how do you think they expect you to adhere to their gap specifications for blown applications or drag/nitrous etc if you can't alter the gaps. They expect you to file them. They are not known as 'file back rings' because it's an old term that is misleading. All rings can be filed.

Nah mate, I think you might have misunderstood. I meant your old manifold could have had a leak making it sound 'beefier'. Now the new manifold is on, it sounds quieter like it should....which may not be quiet at all but quieter than before.

Fuel pressure does not = fuel flow

Do you have one relay for each pump and how good are the earths/power wires to each one? are you running a self resetting circuit breaker in line? It sounds like the lift pump is having issues. It's a bad idea to use an EFI pump for a lift pump, although many people do it, best practice is to get a low pressure lift pump to do the job so you don't get cavitation.

Have you spoken to Kyle about it? Maybe you had an exhaust leak before so it sounded 'tough as' but now it's actually working properly it sounds 'normal'??

It's a great learning experience. Make sure you don't follow the instructions too closely in the manual as there are quite a few catches when you don't use Nissan Genuine parts to replace with. PM DirtGarage or myself if you have any questions that need answering, or put them up here as there are a lot of smart engine builders around here. I would also recommend calling engineers like Chilton Engineering and ask Dave what he would typically do to an RB engine as far as machining goes. That will give you a good idea on what you should be doing and you can decide how far you want to go from that. A lot of people will tell you one type of piston or bearing brand is superior to others but at the end of the day, go with the parts that you can get local support for and that are a well known high quality product. There is nothing worse than trying to send back a set of rings or bearings to the other side of the country because they don't measure up right. Hope this helps.

Sorry I thought you were joking. No I think he is just using silly terminology. It's an import, that is all. Have you tried Autobarn? Not sure where you are from but if you tell me what country and state you are in we might be able to point you in the right direction. As for parts availability, that's nonsense too. These days there is pretty much nothing you can't get locally for them. There are that many around.

Is this one of those moments people have?

Let's break that down a bit: Theres a number It's on the exhaust side Look above cyls 2 and 3 Read the number Post it here That's the only 'other' way to identify it unless you want to take photos of the inlet ports. They are the holes on the intake side of the head.

The number on the exhaust side just above cyl 2 and 3

The number on the exhaust side just above cyl 2 and 3

15w~ is not too heavy for an RB20. And the coolant temp sensor is highly likely considering it pretty much handles the entire enrighment map by itself while the engine is warming up. They can fail the other way and the engine thinks it's warm so it doesn't add the fuel it needs for cold start. Why would the ECU not be able to cope with the extra density of the colder winter air? No one else has any problems....or does he live in antarctica? That's what the AFM is for, it measures air temp and flow. It will compensate when the air is more dense or less dense.

I completely understand where you are coming from. Just trying to get you to understand that he made a couple of mistakes, but in all fairness he has been extremely kind to you on the bill to make up for it. The original verbal quote he gave you was off by a fair amount. And he was wrong about the pump doing the job. Why I was asking about the power vs money thing is because we are all here trying to ease your mind a little, and it gives me a better understanding of what you are prepared to do to get to your goal. The way I see it is this: You have already spent $22000 on it, if $500 will get you to your goal, will you then be content with the result. And you answered that in your last post. I just hope that he's a good tuner and when the new pump setup goes in, he will be able to get you the result you deserve. Sorry for the curve ball questions and comments, it just helps us give you better advice if we all know the whole story etc.

Test the coolant temp sensor and test and clean the AFM Coolant temp sensor should be around 3Kohms when stone cold and approx 300ohms when hot. If the sensor is faulty it will not be adding enough fuel for the cold start settings in the ECU.

Good reply mate, you sound like a pretty level bloke.

He doesn't even know how to write properly, how do you expect him to read? He failed before he even started

I know what you are saying but what I am getting at is that he simply underquoted. It does happen, yes it sucks but I'm sure he didn't do the whole job without updating you on price the whole time. Did you just drop the car off and then pick it up 5 months later and paid $22k on the spot? I don't think so, why were you not asking him these things when the bill was at $14k? He has obviously just made an honest mistake but I'm sure he got confirmation from you throughout the build and you may just be upset because you didn't get the power you were told it would get? If you made 400rwkw, would you have been posting here complaining about the $22k? Or is it just because it was $22k and 311rwkw? To start off, you don't need a new ECU yet. The AFM is going to be a bit iffy but their resolution should go up to 600hp. The injectors can stay until you hit 380-400rwkw. Get yourself a new fuel pump, get him to put it up on the dyno again and see what he can do with it. I am sure you will be very surprised with the final result.

I have gone over the figures in those invoices and I can tell you now you need to pick up the phone, ring your tuner and thank him at least 10 times for looking after you so much on this build. There are a couple of things that I would say are slightly over the norm but they are only small things. He has only charged you 10 hours on the porting, he has only charged you $1100 to assemble the engine (which is cheap as all shit if you consider the work that goes into it inc. cleaning etc.) He has basically remodelled your entire car, not just built you an engine and tuned it. There is modifications to the exhaust, a manifold, an alternator, etc, etc. The truth is, you can spend $15k and get your engine, and get it tuned for 370rwkw but it won't be reliable. And your pump is an 040 as stated above - only good for max 320rwkw and that's pushing it IMO.

I have just done a 2530 build for a guy. It didnt't include injectors, ECU or tuning and his bill is just over $14k. I don't think the guy is necessarily ripping you off, I think maybe he just might lack the experience to quote the job properly. We all make mistakes now and then when quoting things but it all comes down to talking with the customer about those extra costs and being able to explain why they are more or whatever. Not the fact that he said it will cost $15k and you end up paying $20k. He may not be entirely at fault and I'm sure if there was a third party looking in from the outside, he may pick at some things you have done or said during the build. I'm not exactly sure but I'm just saying that sure, he may have forgotten to quote for various things but there is sometimes input from the customer which can be reasons why he wouldn't quote the full amount. Did you already have the injectors before the build started? From the builds I have done and others I have seen, it is usually very difficult to get up around the 370rwkw mark on an AFM but can still be done. 550cc injectors should see you to 400rwkw. There could be another reason for it not making the power like fuel pump or maybe the tune is not 100%, who knows. You need to be running around 26psi to get to 370rwkw on that turbo providing you have the right setup on the head etc.

true on the intercooler for heatsoak and efficiency but I have read articles on dry ice intercoolers and they are seeing inlet temps of around -40c when set up properly. It only last for the first pass and maybe half of the second.

No it would freeze the container and the container would break. Unless you want to make up a special container, with a special freezer, and a special injection kit that could somehow withstand the -196c temps....then your car would be very.....special

You are also forgetting that you will need to store the liquid nitrogen. If you can't keep it constantly cold then it will turn back into a gas. And the window is a very fine one. At -196c it is a liquid but if it goes to -210c it becomes a solid. At -195c it's a gas again so I'd say you would start the engine, run it for a few seconds and you'd have a big container full of nitrogen gas.

How are you going to spray it as a fine mist? The nozzle on whatever jet you are using would freeze over in no time. That's like using a blast furnace to cook your pizza = why would you?

Yeah, I think Power Enterprise and HKS rate them at 265, Nismo rate them at 276. I always like to stay ont he lower side. With what Cerbera is saying, the flow charts for that pump are: And yeah +1 on the GTR version being a perfect match for 700cc's

Both. The factory RB20 oil feed has approx. 2mm restrictor in the banjo fitting on the block end. The turbo also has one. The restrictor in the in the turbo is less than 1mm so the only purpose the one in the banjo fitting serves is to slow the oil down before it gets to the turbo. The factory turbo is journal bearing in the series 1 and ball bearing in the series 2 and 3 so the restrictor is there for the factory turbo setup. You can leave it there or take it away, it does not matter. The one in the turbo is all that matters and Garrett put them in all of the GT range of turbos in an appropriate size.