The Dan

The restrictor is already there. And it doesn't break the seals, it only makes the oil get past them. So just run the line to the turbo...if it gets a bit smokey, then you need to put another restrictor in. HKS assumes that you retain the 2mm factory restrictor when they do this though, so you need to make sure you have that one on the block side also.

Yeah, the fuel pump could be starting to let you down. If you have the 245L/hr Nismo pump, they are good for up to around 600whp I think. CBF doing the calculations right now but yeah, I think I worked out that the bigger GTR pump (265L/hr??) is good for up to around 750hp or so. You may find that if you increase the pump size, your duty cycle will decrease. Or you could try increasing the fuel line size. What size fuel line are you running?

Yeah we share the same nickname - Donkey Now gof**kyaself you old bastard

These aren't just theoretical estimates. I gave him the ability to work it out for himself. Maybe he is going to purchase injectors and needs to know so he can decide whether or not to go for larger or smaller items. Out of the many cars I have fitted 700cc injectors to, only 3 have ever really 'pushed close to the limit'. 420rwkw roughly for all with more room to move... none were running standard rail pressure or standard fuel pumps Nismoid and I wouldn't have posted if we didn't have actual figures in mind.

As a simple rule of thumb, you can usually use the following formula as a guide: (Injector CC / 5) X No. of Injectors. That will give you flywheel hp. This is only an indication and things like rail pressure and rpm will effect their overall capability. I would say 650-700whp would be a safe upper limit. Up the base rail pressure to 45psi and you might get them to squeeze out to 750whp but things become unsteady at that point if you haven't got the supporting hardware

Wasn't talking to you so don't start on me. Wasn't aimed at anyone. Just a general observation. It can be denied by anyone, I don't really care but it's a fact. There are too many people who don't know shit from breakfast and post their comments regarding someone elses dyno graph calling BS on the figure given because they think they know. And it's not just with dyno graphs, it's with most of the common topics around FI. Yeah mate, I know why you would say that but you may be misunderstanding the point I am trying to make. That is: For people like you, who are constantly on the track , racing and improving their times, HP vs MPH is a good indication of a power increase and vice versa. But for joe blow who has his first time at the track, a slower MPH doesn't always disprove the HP he posts up with his dyno graph. I was trying to make the point that all the different aspects of the track and the car come into play and it's not just a simple MPH / HP direct ratio. Like I said earlier, they share similarities, but there are many other factors involved in the equation and even for someone like you, if you change one of those factors, your MPH will change. Put some Falken 452's on the back of your car, take it out again and see what MPH you run, I'm sure you will run at least 10mph less than your best and your 60foot will represent this. It doesn't mean you have lost HP

Unfortunately SAU has bred a massive group of overnight experts. These experts contest nearly every dyno graph posted and comment on their (limited) experience with the subject. The truth is, there are so many different factors that will effect your overall time or MPH and there is not a perfect relationship between MPH and HP. Only similarities.

Get a 1M long piece of heater or garden hose, put it on top of each spark plug hole while someone with a breaker bar rocks the engine back and forth in various locations of it's rotation. You can usually hear a decent knock through the hose if you are on the faulty cylinder. My bet would be bearing unless it's exhaust manifold leaking only on one cylinder. Sometimes they can make a loud cracking type noise associated with just that cylinder.

Handful of rags, get someone to block the tailpipe for 3 second intervals. Listen up front for the hissing. It will get worse but not as quickly if you stay off boost as much as possible

Have you got both thin washers on either side of the lower timing gear?

Don't pretend you're a Knights fan all of a sudden. Everyone knows you are a closet Rabbitohs fan. And the Broncos were just giving the other teams a better chance so they get to pick who they play in the finals. It's textbook NRL playout tactics

Was that run done in 3rd? Just noting the speed. Nice work on the tune though, it looks like it holds near peak power for quite some time

Stop being silly. You can't have band practice without the lead guitarist and that would mean his turbo would be f**ked too.

Shhh! don't tell people that. They won't be able to bash HKS products anymore

It's practically impossible to smash every valve when the belt breaks. Once it breaks, the cams stop turning. It can smash every valve if the belt stays on but a bearing lets go causing the belt to loosen

Before you take the head off you need to do a leakdown test. That will tell you why the cylinders are not making compression. You can try something also. Take the pipe off the plenum, cover it with your hand and get someone to crank over the engine. See if it tries to suck your hand in. Be careful you don't injure yourself. It can't swallow you hand but it can crack a knuckle . I think, though, you will find the leakdown test will reveal your problem.

Where can I get some powdered cuttlefish?

Go Broncos!!

Glad we sorted that one out. I was worried we would never get to the bottom of it. But, I guess 5 years we've had to think about it. Good job

You'll have problems with that much oil pressure. 110 is probably the maximum you would want to see. 90-100 is more normal. What bearing clearances were used and was the pressure relief valve checked before the pump went on?

Whoever is installing the plugs/coil packs is breaking them. They don't just randomly crack like that. They are either being installed incorrectly, there is a problem with the spark plug socket being used, or the coil packs are being pushed down too hard.

This topic hasn't been covered a gazillionty times.

Yeah and I did a 13.6 @ 109.6 mph with 260rwkw in a 32 GTST.

No, generally 600 engine hp is practical as a maximum for one of them

What car are you dealing with? None of the skylines up to V35 have OBDII connector. They are consult 16pin port. And at any rate there is already a good program and cable on the market for $145 AUD inc. software that does that. It's made by PLMS Developments