The Dan

Only if the eeprom is exposed to sunlight or damaged. Try emailing [email protected] and he should be able to shed some more light on the remapping side of things

Subscription post. There is one thing I would like to point out that you have said about suspension, tyres and various other setups that will make the car perform differently, and we don't need an American to have an arguement...we have enough between ourselves lol, and that is take one engine...Engine = 1000hp, put engine into car A. Car A has a 'no-expense-spared' and no stone unturned approach for the build up. Car A does 8.00 at 180mph. Pull engine out and Put in Car B with less spent and not as many improvements for a completely dedicated drag car, it is driven on the street. Car B does 10.00 at 165mph. We have a couple of examples of this in Australia where engines are borrowed (and those figures above do not represent any particular one) and the times, and MPH will differ dramatically. I still maintain that MPH is not an accurate indication of HP but moreso an accurate indication of a cars potential to do a better time and the fact that it's 'setup' may not be perfect.

Nope. And a few questions: How are you concluding that it is the AFM? How many brand new units have you bought? Have you checked to make sure you are not sending incorrect voltage through it? Good air filter fitted? Tried cleaning it?

Agree. But 350 would be pushing it IMO so I would stick to 320 and under for safety.

300kw x 1.34 = 402hp + approx 80hp drivetrain loss in a 34 = 482hp at engine. 482 / 6 injectors = 80.33 x 5 = 401.66 cc 401.66 + 15% for extra = 462cc injectors for safety 6 cylinders x 0.462 = 2.772L/min = 166.32 L/hr 166.32 + 10% for safety = 183L/hr Now keep in mind I have left 15% head room for injectors and a 10% head room for pump above that. In the real world, these figures are a little higher than they need to be but once you start revving past 7k, the fuel demand is very real. Work on these figures to pick the pump and keep in mind that any boost pressure should be added on top of your existing 40psi neutral fuel rail pressure to get the final rail pressure. eg. 40psi neutral rail pressure (when vac line is off) + 20psi boost = ~60psi rail pressure (depending on the reg you have also but this is just a guide). 60psi = 4.08bar so ... 180l/hr @ 4 bar

I can imagine. I was referring to the fact that 040 pump is not the best pick for that style fuel tank. Not that it can't do the job of pumping fuel. Too many people jump on here and bag products out without understanding why they fail or do not suit their application. Once again, not you, but many other people feel it necessary to knock something because they had a bad experience or their friend had a bad experience. Most of the time it's installer error or incorrect application usage. If you want a pump that is going to do the job and will be a direct fit, then grab a Nismo, Tomei, SARD, HKS pump. They are all the same pump so get whichever one is cheapest at the time. If there is one thing you don't want to frig around with, it's fuel for your Skyline. It would have to be one of the most important things to consider in your upgrade list. Don't go second rate and don't be fooled by people who tell you a 255L/hr pump is rated to 500hp because all pumps are not the same. Have a look at the pressure they pump those flow stats at. The Walbro stuff is fine at idle and for medium upgrades but when you start winding some boost in, you start upping the pressure in your fuel rail. The Walbro pumps reduce flow to approx 160-170L after about 60-65psi rail pressure. I'm not bagging out the Walbro pump but it has it's place, as does the 040 (which is reaching the end of it's tether at that kind of power anyway) For 300kw you need a minimum of 180L/hr @ 4bar. I have allowed for a small amount of room but realistically for your application you need something around 200L/hr @ 4bar (or above)

Maybe for the application, but they are certainly not a shit pump.

Cubes did a full write up. Ask him for a link to the file

Do a compression and leakdown test. You could also have a valve protrusion or sealing problem

I'd make a few suggestions. 1. You are worrying about it too much 2. Your compression gauge is not that acurate to tell you 176 it would be 175. 3. If it's straight off the boat and has made the trip over, chances are the battery is not too crash hot, and if you didn't use a really good jump pack for the test then the battery is likely to be getting tired by 5 and 6 anyway. 4. Did you keep the throttle open while cranking during the test?

ViPEC - Good for your engine, bad for your drivetrain

holyf**kenshitf**k!! That's awesome. That sounds nasty in those clips. I would assume an engine pull down after at least every second run would have been on the cards? Sounds like ViPEC is going to save them a lot of money - on engines - not drivetrain

That was a rhetorical question. I saw the sticker on the tail, probably shouldn't have put the question mark, but my unforgiving need to be grammatically correct overrides my need to be easy to understand, if that makes sense. I am aware of his skill, not sure why you pointed that out. I was merely making a statement that an already impressive car used to run an AEM, now it runs the ViPEC. It will be a good testament to the ViPEC if that car can then do better times as a result.

0.402 ms

So they changed out the AEM for the Vipec now? Gonzo was raving to me about how good the AEM was. Good testament to the Vipec if they run a faster time. Any ideas what times they've put down?

0.4 - 0.6v

Answer the question? Is it there from idle all the way up to 1000rpm? or is it fine at idle and just there once you try to take off?

Hey let's not beat up on Nismoid here. It is extremely important to know what cylinder a missfire is on. You simply cannot diagnose a missfire unless you know this. It's a very valid statement to make as we are all here offering advice for days and days, using our own time, and after 5 days of rigorous testing you turn around and say 'oh I found the problem fellas, it was missfiring on cylinder one because there was a slightly broken wire in the injector plug at the terminal' FUUUUUUUCK!!! - is what everyone says If you are talking about some kind of shudder when you take off, could it be something silly like clutch shudder? Also, if you have a valve seating problem, it will only be present at idle and the beginning of throttle (if the leak is tiny) but the missfire will definitely be there at idle. Is it there from idle all the way up to 1000rpm? or is it fine at idle and just there once you try to take off?

Do a compression and leakdown test. You could also have a valve protrusion or sealing problem. Carbon build up or something.

Thanks Rob. I just like to make sure people get looked after. You don't need to get me anytyhing, or if you do, at least sit down and share it with me Correction Gervase: Scotch is Whiskey. Glenfiddich is not Scotch Caol Ila, Glenmorangie, Talisker and Arberlour are Scotches, Glenfiddich is what you drink once you have the better taste of something else before it.

If I may offer my opinion from personal experience (like you have a choice) I actually don't mind answering a question for somone when I have answered it previously. It's what we are all about here. To provide as much information as we can to as many people who ask. What annoys me, though, is when people post without thinking or without putting up the details of their vehicle. Also stupid questions get me. Some of the content coming through here is rediculous in the last 6 months. On the other side of the coin, though, you have to look at it like this: The more separate threads people create, the harder it is for people to search for what they want. If everyone searched from the beginning, then they wouldn't need to ask the question snow because everything would be in easy to locate positions.

My GT4508R has 0.5mm

For best results, launch in 3rd If you have the budget to build a car that can withstand that kind of punishment, then do it. If not, then do it and break shit everywhere. Why not just make some more power, launch it gently, then munch everyone in 50m time?

wrong forum

Or you could just buy the part and replace the piece that is worn away.