The Dan

Yeah I know what you are saying but I am telling you that there is not going to be a torque spec for those bolts in that application. Different rod material and different conrod bolt = different torque. You can go off the torque for the bolt diameter and pitch, it may be close or it may be exact. You need to use a stretch gauge, you have no choice. http://www.rocketind.com.au/descriptions.p...rtno=AR100-9941 order it now and you'll see it before the end of the week.

It seems as though you already have the answer to your question. If you are doing a project such as this, then you can only go off stretch to apply the correct torque. So you are going to have to get a stretch gauge to determine the correct torque. All of this information would have been helpful at the start.

Why is it strange? ARP define the torque for their bolts and studs. That's why I asked the TPI as it will be easily identifiable from that. And furthermore, you should have received instructions with the torque specs that came with the rods. All eagle rods come with these. Look at the catalogue for L19, if you can't find it then go to the standard settings for ARP 220,000psi bolt 3/8th and whatever pitch it is, if you're not happy with that then read the instructions that came with the rods, if you don't have the instructions and don't have a listed torque, then use a stretch gauge. That is all

For the Eagle rod you will need to do them to 45ft/lbs 43 is the old torque specs for the eagle rods, Eagle revised their specs about a year ago. If you are getting the bigend tunnel re-sized (which you should do for any rod) as long as you torque them to the same as when they were re-sized, then you won't have any issues (as long as it was close - 43 vs 45 is f**k all) But yeah, 45ft/lbs is what ARP and Eagle recommend for that.

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If you can tell me the rod brand I can probably tell you the torque for them. Alternatively, tell me the thread pitch (16 or 24 TPI) and I can also tell you what it is.

They all have the oil drain hole in them. And I'm pretty sure they only say RB25, not RB25DET. I could be wrong on this though. If it's a DE at the back of the engine on the exhaust side there will be block off bolts in the water gallery and oil gallery for the turbo. If it's a DET then these should be exposed.

I have a megawhine flow gauge here if you want to borrow it. It's fairly accurate As above, you need to check it properly.

If you have a stretch gauge and you are getting 0.006 then it doesn't matter what the torque is. That is the most perfect way to gauge correct torque on a bolt or stud. Secondly, you can visit the ARP website and the torque specs are in their catalogue. You did try ARP yes?

Anyone ever heard of an injector? duh no but it's DEFINITELY YOUR COIL PACKS lol

Also, top up the expansion tank on the side. slightly overfill it so if the system needs to recover any more fluid, it can grab it from here. If the radiator is low but the expansion tank is full then it is likely the cap is stuffed. If the radiator is low but the expansion tank is empty then it could be a leak somewhere or headgasket etc. You don;t have to use coolant for topping up, water works better but it does not have any corrosion inhibitor so the system will rust and wear if you dilute it too much. I always advise using the heavy duty Tectaloy Radiator flush in the black bottle, completely drain the system and refill with plain or distilled water. Use Redline Water Wetter as a corrosion inhibitor. Water Wetter lowers the surface tension of water by reducing the amount of cavitation, thus creating a greater surface area for the water to absorb heat. This means you will also reduce engine temps.

Radiator could be slightly low. The 95 is normal if the car is turned off as the water does not cycle so you get what's called heat soak. The temps will rise around 10 deg and then stabilise. The gurgling in the top hose is due to the water boiling in the top section of the system. Start by topping up the system, bleed it via the bleeder and replace the radiator cap as they are usually fubar and it's the last thing people replace on their car as most people don't have the equipment to test them.

I'd start by changing the oil lines around lol It doesn't matter which water line goes where. As long as one goes into one side and the other goes to the other side and they both connect to where the original water lines did on the engine

Why don't you test the one you have in the real world? It's silly to upgrade something that should be well capable of doing the job. Do your own temp checks, pressure drop tests and flow stats.

You need to earth the spark plug on the thread or the hex section otherwise it won't spark. If you are unsure on how to perform basic diagnostics, it is probably better if you take the car to someone as it is too difficult to be able to explain more complicated testing methods.

How are you testing the spark? And you are aware that if you don't earth the body of the plug, it will not spark either?

lol

It all depends on how much timing correction he has put in on the tune. Going back 2 degrees is not going to make a hell of a lot of difference to the power - although it can make 10hp difference in most cases. But where the timing is set too high, it can mean the difference between life and death for your engine. It's not a matter of whether 15 or 17 is right, it's a matter of it being correct everywhere. I can't tell you whether your tune has been done correctly because 17 deg base timing is not exactly a bad thing, but check it out all the same, it may be causing your problem, it may not.

It is always important to have the correct bas timing set before it is tuned. Take it back and tell him to do it again.

I used to think this also as I have tested many actuators on GTR's with the mightyvac and they open at 4-5psi individually. That's why I originally asked the question. Still haven't got around to thinking about it some more.

R33 GTST and R34 GTS are the same though

No, most definitely not. 33 is push 34 is pull type

Yeah I thought rotor when I saw it too. No part numbers on the centre cartridge? +1 on the measure of wheel size. Get your verniers out and then it can be identified. Even if it's got hybrid components, it can still be estimated for power output and approximate specs. Looks like a TA45 but unsure on the turbine inlet whether it's TA or T4. Need to measure centre of hole to centre of hole on the flange.

+1 This is exactly right. Give the leak a quick spray of WD40 and it should clear up over night

You might get to 250rwkw - 335rwhp. I know there will be some people on here who have made more on the stockies but it's a dangerous ballgame. AFM's should max out at around 270rwkw give or take. Injectors at approx 310rwkw.