150 shot of NOS.
You'll need an engine and new turbo afterwards but it'll be one hell of a ride.....and it's the fastest way to 400rwhp
Cannot be done on the standard turbo and I'm pretty sure it's been covered before.
+1
you can bypass this by direct earthing the fuel pump to the body and see if she fires up. It will be better this way also as the pump will get a full 12v minimum all the time.
We could start calling turbochargers blow off valves if you like.
The part circled in pink is an IAC solenoid or IAC valve.
The part under the plenum is an AAC valve.
They do similar things but are not the same. A rose by another name is when there are two names for the same thing. These two items are clearly different and have different names.
No the Auxiliary Air Control is located under the plenum. That is the IAC Idle Air Control Solenoid - It controls idle still but the auxiliary air control valve does something slightly different
Yes, they can modify them but the catch is that a triple can only be rebuilt as a twin. The plates are thicker so he can only fit 2 plates in where OS fit 3.
The twins can still be rebuilt as twins.
I have had a few triples done in the past. They drive so nicely afterwards
30% more surface area on the friction material is always going to make it more harsh to drive. Sprung or unsprung plays a part also but if you want to make an OS triple into a very nicely driveable twin, then you take it to NPC.
I don't know anyone who would want to buy a triple. NPC make twins that hold over 1000hp at the wheels.
You could have it rebuilt as a twin which will improve it's driveability.
Your starter motor is drawing too much current.
Test the voltage live while someone is cranking. Shouldn't drop any further than 9V. Also make sure the power lead to the starter motor is not broken or loose. Make sure the earth cables are good also. Poor terminal contact or poor earth will cause the same issue.
When you jump start the car the current cycles through the booster vehicle or battery. Therefore you can afford a small current drop in the circuit and it will still go.
Your problem is Connection or starter motor. Nothing to do with alternator and absolutely nothing to do with injectors....not even sure how you came up with that idea.
Can someone correct me if I'm wrong in my above post? I am almost 100% certain that RB30 pumps don't fit onto most of the cranks out there? This is due to the different gear design and different flats on the drive.
Never tried to put one on a standard 20/25 crank though.
I was under the impression the 30 pump did not fit onto cranks that already have the collar or the extended factory snout.
Which pretty much limits you to R32 GTR cranks and 20 and 25's.
The cavitation is a critical issue as mentioned above.
750-800rwhp
You probably won't make much more than that even though the turbos should see you clear to 800. The pump fuel is not good enough for much over the 750mark
I should also point out that on 22-24psi you would probably stop at around 400rwkw
Unplug the auxilary air valve.
It is a long weird looking thing under the plenum. It has a purple plug that should be facing towards the firewall. Hard to get to but I can just get my fingers on it to unplug and my arm is f**kEN HUGE!!!
That should solve your problem.
In that video I can still hear the ticking when you are revving, and it stays at the same rate. It does not increase with revs. That's why it's not an injector.
An electronic boost controller has a solenoid in it.
Are you sure you can't hear the ticking sound when you rev it because the engine noise over rides it? I can definitely hear it
It isn't injectors.
It runs smoothly also so of course it's going on all six.
Is there a boost control solenoid off to the side there? Could be playing up.
Yes, he broke the news to me tonight.....didn't even tell me to my face, bloody phone call.
He told me you are actually alright in person, I thought you were a flamin mongrel all these years
Spark plugs an shit (just to keep it on topic)