The Dan

I think I love you.

No I am referring to when the actuator starts to open up. If the spring inside is shit then you can try to adjust it, but it may not fix the problem...if it doesn't then use a mightyvac to see what pressure opens the actuator. I'm gonna charge you for a plane ticket in a minute.

Do you still not have the intercooler piping hooked up?

Sometimes they can be re-adjusted but other times the diaphram spring is shot and it's not able to be fixed. If you have the time, adjust the rod first. See how it goes. They can still have spring tension but sometimes open at 1 or 2 psi which causes the same issues. That needs to be tested with a vacuum/boost checker (we call them a mightyvac)

You were told how to test them. A picture means shit. They only have to be open 1mm and you won't see boost til 6000rpm. I don't mind helping out but geez man you gotta follow instructions.

No I was asking why gap the plugs down? It's a stupid idea that people have got into their heads that it is MANDATORY to buy 0.8mm gapped plugs. Nonsense!. If you only have mild mods up to 250rwkw then you start at 1.1mm and work your way down slowly. If you need to run 0.6mm gap then there is something else wrong. I have cars running 400+ kw with more than 0.8mm gap and no issues. I have had people come to me before with missfires, frig around with the coil packs, checking fuel pressure, replacing filters, plugs, other coil packs for hours and hours and find out the CAS has been wound forward. Causes the same issue. Set your base timing first, then do the other checks.

Flapper is a funny word isn't it.

Already suggested this. I assumed he had already checked these. Actuators push the rod towards the rear of the car. Pull the e-clip off and lift the rod. If you can pull the flapper towards the front of the car from that point, then you have an actuator stuck open. With the rod off the flapper, if you look through the hole in the rod and the flapper fully closed, only 1/2 - 1/4 of the pin on the flapper should be exposed by the hole. This means you should have to pull the rod towards the back of the car to get it over the pin when the flapper is fully closed. If not, then it's loose or open. Boost problem fixed when you buy new HKS units

+1 and it's called surge porting for a reason

13231-05U00

why?

If you are using a hand controller to change the settings then they can possibly be locked. The datalogit has the ability to lock specific setting screens.

+1 on kkr 430 for RB20. Try to get an oil and water cooled version (they do exist, you just have to ask for them).

+1 for Timing. Check to make sure the CAS isn't wound too far forward. And as for fuel, does it have a new fuel filter on it as well?

Fuel

Trying really hard here RB25DE or DET?

I'm not saying I disagree but you don't back cut a turbine to slow the compressor, even though it has that effect. You do it to relieve pressure build up in the exhaust manifold.

With the ignition on, check the output voltage (I think it's the middle wire of the 3 there). You should see between 0.4 and 0.6 volts with the throttle closed. Check to make sure you have 5V going in on one wire and make sure you have continuity back to the ECU on each one. Check the ECU earths also....if you have to, run a couple extra to be safe. Pins 30, 38 and 48 correspond to TPS 30 is Sensor ground 38 is Signal 48 is voltage supply With IGN on, 48 should see 5v, 38 should see 0.4 - 0.6v. Slowly open the throttle while testing this voltage to make sure you get a clean sweep all the way up to 4.1V.

You still haven't confirmed what engine you have. It's a little hard to give advise not knowing.

so are we meant to guess what engine? Considering you have a 'GTS33' I would say leave the cams in there as they are good for that combination. Non-turbo cams work well as a moderate upgrade.

Geez I didn't think you would take that as a literal statement. I was pointing out the lack of relationship between your power drop and the cluster problem. Not that they have anything in common. It is possible but unlikely. I did suggest you look for a bad earth, check every single one. Start with the big main ones from the battery to the chassis rail and to the block (engine mount) and then check the one to the coil packs from the ECU, then check the one from the strut tower to the turbo, then pull your dash apart and look for problems there. How did you check for the leaks in the piping? Did you just look and wriggle? If so, do it again properly. Undo each clamp and remove the pipe, clean the area that seals, put on a light smear of rubber grease or even a tiny bit of No3 and put them back on. If you don't know the car, where the vac lines are, how to pull the dash apart, what an earth wire looks like, how to test for a bad earth or how to test for a boost leak with a proper tester, then take it to someone who knows and can help you. Guessing will only get you so far. You might get lucky. I cannot see the car, therefore I cannot give you a difinitive answer but I thought at least a logical approach could be expected. Attack one problem at a time, don't go looking for multiple problems all at once. You will only get confused and not know what's what. Fix your wiring first, it may effect your power level with a bad earth like I mentioned earlier. Then enjoy the car whilst knowing you actually have fuel in it and what rpm and speed you are doing.

But if you've already bought the -10's why does any of this matter? We've all done the comparisons before...you are always going to get the die hard twin fans and the die hard single fans. Like I said earlier, I try to stick to twins under 350rwkw, but over that, single is worth considering. No one setup is really better than the other. And the reason why people go on about twins being so responsive on RB26 is because no one has really gone to the effort of putting a small single on an RB26 before. I'm sure someone has but you don't see it all the time. GT3082R on RB26 would go off. And you'd still make 350rwkw easily. The multi throttle is another aid to response. Any of the guys who go for aftermarket plenums don't put on small turbos (usually) so there are no real comparisons between multi throttle and small single vs multi throttle and twins.

You'll need to change those figures. RB26 with -10's = boost by 4500 = boost by 4100 on RB30 RB26 with T04Z = boost by 4200 = boost by 3800 on RB30 And if your goal is 400kw, then why the hell do you need -10's? -5's will do 400kw and RB26 with -5's = boost by 4000 = boost by 3600 in RB30.

Sorry, misunderstood his statement. And yours. You mentioned it slowing down the compressor so I naturally assumed we were talking about the compressor. I have the compressor cover back cut for the reason mentioned above. Back cutting the turbine blades does slow the compressor, but it's probably better to refer to it as allowing the turbine to flow more freely, which in turn slows the compressor down.