The Dan

DIESEL FUEL. 600ml of DIESEL FUEL poured into the oil system and run for 10 minutes or around the block at low/med throttle. Then drain while still hot. Or go out and buy a wynns engine flush or one of the other brands. They are all Kerosene based anyway.

Yes they can fail. The pressure relief valve can stick or the spring can break. Less common but still happens. The spring can stick due to gunk in the oil. Make sure you change the oil regularly (5000kms) and ALWAYS use a good quality oil. Flushing the oil with diesel fuel on oil changes can help to prevent this. It works like an engine oil flush. If not sure, don't attempt it. Just make sure you look after it and it will usually be fine.

The red light and the gauge needle operate separately from one another. If the red light comes on, turn the engine off immediately. The gauge can read zero but if the light doesn't come on then it's usually the sender at fault. Never drive it if unsure, it's waaaaay cheaper to call a tow truck then to replace an engine. Keeping in mind that we are only offering advice based on what you are saying and the most probable cause, your engine could still have low pressure, so if you choose to drive it with the needle reading low, keep in mind that you may very well be doing damage.

It's not the recommended oil for your engine....Ultra is the Shell recommended but it won't do any damage. If you don't want to change it straight away, leave it in there but avoid redline driving or if you can't help yourself, change it atfer 2-3000kms instead of the recommended 5-7000. It will be fine either way

sounds like you have found your problem. Replace that hose, it should make a difference. If the engine cannot vent pressure from the crankcase, then it will build up pressure and burn the oil.

And 4 litres is not enough for your engine.

Are you checking the oil level on completely level ground? If you are on a slight incline it will effect the result. There is no need to wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain back to the sump. In fact, 2 minutes would be the maximum you would need. There is no difference between checking it hot or checking it cold. The level does not change that much. The factory sender is usually the culprit for the gauge reading low, there is nothing wrong with the gauge itself so there is no need to go out and buy an aftermarket one. Ask the workshop who will be installing the turbos to do an oil pressure test with a manual gauge to confirm the health of the system. Also, there is absolutely nothing wrong with Ryco filters. It is possible you had a smaller filter in place before as a Z386 also fits from memory. Being double the size, that is the only reason I can think of....but with filters, I would have to say bigger would be better anyway. If you need to check the oil level....make sure it's on completely flat ground (garage floor should be level or service stations have level ground next to the pumps.)

They are an old design Denso 550cc. Just be careful with this option. I know there are a few people running them but it's fairly well known in the rotary world that the factory injectors are a little unstable at anything higher than 80% duty.

No, there is not

could be injectors, could be the tune in the AFC but if it's only been for a week that's not likely. I would suggest having the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. Also make sure your TPS doesn't have a dead spot at that throttle position. Voltage check it while slowly bringing on the throttle.

ring ring....ring ring

And so you know....side feed injectors feed fuel into the side of the injector, top feed injectors...well, they feed into the top of the injector

They will not fit the side feed rail. You need to muck around with adapting a new fuel rail to make them work. It would be cheaper to get a larger side feed injector

Cmon now, I'm pretty sure it's under the driver's seat

So who makes this 450hp ceramic turbo?

are you absolutely sure? I don't think it's in there

umm, you'll find that the RE engine monitor does take inputs from any sensor you want. It's just been customised to work in direct link with the Vipec. You can wire in more sensors if you like. The datalogger does everything a Motec logger can do. You name it, it has it

RH side under the parcel shelf. Pull out that stupid barrier in the boot to get to it easily. P.S. My phone is turned on

Really? Are you sure?

With how slow that thing of yours is, I guess you need every 10th you can get

The RUZIC ENGINEERNIG ENGINE MONITOR and RACE LOGGER are by far the two best things you can add to your car or race beast. The screen is easily read, even in direct sunlight. Paul has put a friggin mountain of time into these and I'm always impressed every time I think about what they can do. My favourite option is where you can select an RPM level vs oil pressure warning. So you can not just monitor oil pressure drops but if something shithouse happens when you are at full noise, you know about it when it happens, not after you have returned to idle....that's the difference between a munched engine that costs thousands and a worn engine that costs a few hundred. AWESOME AWESOME PRODUCT!

The only difference is the manifold bolt up pattern but guys like ShaneF can make the adaptor plate for you and has done so with the 26 plenum on 25 head. You will also have to externally feed oil into the vct like the RB30 guys do. But yeah, that would be the most practical way to do it. Both 25NEO and 26 heads have the same flow potential but the camshafts specs are different.

Or just use the 25. You can make just as much hp. The only advantage that I could see would be there is a larger selection of camshafts available. But the cost would be tremendous

not as cool as a 'double dumpy' behind the front wheel

If you have read the other threads then you would know that every single time the recommended clearance is advised by the manufacturer, then you go 0.0005 - 0.0010 more.