The Dan

Use the stock manifold. 250rwkw is nothing to ask from one of those. In fact they are better than aftermarket options in many ways. I'm not going to get into a debate with other people on here about the pros and cons of cast vs steam pipe or stainless and short runner vs tuned length but I can tell you the stock manifold will have no flow restriction at those power levels and you will not notice any real improvement from merge collector designs on smaller power outputs.

Wouldn't the EPA be happier with the microtech seeing as though it probably has less harmful emissions than the stocky? Or are we talking about a 'bullshit no-mods' state like VIC?

Stockies are good for up to 2 bar if they are in ok condition.

Yep. Was hoping to have the new cryo gearbox back together in time for Time Attack 2 but wasn't to be the case. It has been running since december IIRC. We still have the old block here with the piece missing so thinking of spray welding it then drilling and tapping a new thread for the g/box hole. Then use it for a spare engine as it's still standard bore.

Yours is missing the vehicle designation. Have a look on mine where it says GTR. Try expanding the page a bit to make it visible.

So they are going to high flow your turbos for $800 each or are they replacement turbos? Hypergear turbos are from China aren't they?

Bush bearing high flow is $1550 per turbo and BB high flow is $1800 per turbo. Where did you get your prices from?

The highflow turbo will cost you 60% more to have done and there is down time while you are waiting for them to be done. The -7's are only $2250 for the pair or if you want to go get a pair of second hand N1's then they will do the same job.

You don't. What I am saying is that the torque required to break that gearbox will change depending on the weight of the car it is in. If it's in a datto ute it will require a lot more torque to break it than if it were in a 4 tonne truck.

The strength of a gearbox will never change but it depends on what car you are putting it into. Put it in a Datto ute and you can probably double the torque going through it. For that setup, considering torque is usually relative to hp, you will most likely top out at around 700-750nm. The setup is not really capable of much more than that but put a bigger set of turbos and bigger injectors and that figure will go up

It is a map sensor. It only operates the standard gauge so not required. light throttle and 4000rpm breakdown sounds like a fuel issue. Check fuel flow before and after the filter. Do a pressure test and see what it does while driving and breaking down. You could also have a second issue with the 02 sensor or the coolant temp sensor. Check these with a multimeter. Also do as suggested above and check for vac leaks.

$195 Also depends on what turbo you are putting on. Hard lines are always better but unless you have the equipment or the time, braid is the most convenient and easy to install.

When I grow up I wanna be just like him.

Hey Trent, have you ever tried, or know of anyone trying, the BUR9EQ plug in an RB? Expensive for a street plug but if they'll work, they are a group 8 plug I think, so better for a track/drag machine.

No, it is part of the oil feed line that comes from the block. Not in the turbo. You will need to run a 1mm restrictor in the oil feed line somewhere.

As for the fuel pump, the only way to know what is in there is to pull it out and have a look. There is no point guessing.

What's with the text modifications? The only straight bolt on turbo will be a highflow of your existing turbo or a HKS kit. Even the so called Precision high flow turbos are not exactly what you'd call straight bolt on as they're slightly longer in the centre cartridge which means you have to modify the intake piping and some of the bov return pipe. To get your turbo high flowed it costs approx $1750-$1800 and it would take approx a week to have it done including remove and refit. It WILL NOT get you 250-300rwkw. It will get you to 250rwkw but that's about it. The HKS option is probably a little better it you want to make those power levels. A HKS 3037 Pro kit should get you there. I know a couple of people making 270-280rwkw on these kits without a problem. They are going to set you back around $2500-$2800.

Dear Ash, You are a bottom feeding scumbag. Kind regards, Daniel Who gave you the right to belittle their grief? No one asked you to feel sorry and if you can't feel sorry then feel the need to shut the f**k up about it because no one needs to hear your remarks. Sure you have an opinion and some of it may be true, some of it not. That does not give you the right to say what you said. It's a free country and we have free speech so when I see you I'll feel free to punch you in the throat and call you a flamin mongrel. Ban me if you like, I needed to get it out. That is all.

What I mean is, I get my hose guy to use crimp teflon braid, not AN stuff. They can cut and silver solder the hose tail off the factory fitting, then make the rest out of crimped braid. Works every time. Stick to banjos for the water lines, it's easier to keep everything away from the exhaust too.

I know where you're coming from and it is a valid point but accell enrich only comes into play for a fraction of a second when the throttle is depressed quickly, then it goes back to normal. Seeing as though it's when the engine is at just over maximum torque with a decent rpm and considering that rpm on our cars is usually around at least 5krpm and up, then that accell depression would have to take place at that time and power delivery would have to be instantaneous. In the small fraction of time that the injector needs to deliver that tiny bit more fuel, the engine would still be building boost for a small amount of time, therefore, still getting up into it's peak torque area. I suppose it could be an issue if you put all things into consideration and they all happened at once. Would be rare for it to be an issue but I don't doubt that it could happen. It's always better to stay on the safe side of these things, no doubt at all. But still, with an easy maximum at 280rwkw, I think 250 or even 260rwkw would be nothing too much to ask out of the standard injectors. Of course it all comes down to having everything else right too. If you have a shit fuel pump it's going to let the whole package down. When you run close to the edge, it's always risky business but if you have all systems in place, it can be just as safe as anything else. I reckon, if in doubt, upgrade. If it's not in your budget, then tune it down til it is. I don't want anyone to get the wrong idea with what I'm saying, it's always better to be safe then sorry, it's good to know the limitations of ALL your hardware but only go down that road if you are prepared for the consequences. And yeah, if in doubt, ask or upgrade as above.

Normally I just get the standard fitting and have my hose guy cut and silver solder the braid section to it.

I understand you have 30 odd years experience which is why I don't understand how you can claim to know how EXACTLY his engine failed without seeing every part. There are so many scenarios for how an engine can fail and several of them will net the same result on the big end bearings. I said that oil starvation does not tell you why it failed because there are also several reasons why a bearing can be starved of oil. Not just one. You claimed to know the exact reason without doubt. Knowing that one bearing was starved of oil is easy, know why it was starved of oil is not without seeing the whole package. And even then, you'll need information from the owner of the car to know exactly what he/she was doing at the time of failure so you can base your judgement on the evidence. The reason why I said Nissan don't have issues with it is because they don't. There GTST's have never had inherit problems with oil control. Their GTR's have not. I will admit the GTR is probably the worst candidate as the drain back holes from the rear of the sump are too small to allow fast flow back and, therefore, capture the oil at the back of the sump instead of allowing it to return to the pickup area. This is a simple fix. Just because he is making double the HP from factory, doesn't mean he requires double the oil does it? 150kw or 300kw, at 8000rpm he's going to require the same amount of oil to lubricate the system so your point on HP is incorrect. He may be able to drive the car on the street with as much enthusiasm as on the track but we live in the real world here and obviously he wouldn't be so confused as to why his engine failed and I don't recall seeing him on the 6o'clock news. Your point on RUN IN is also incorrect. Are you trying to tell me that the rings just magically seat into the bores? are you trying to say the bearings have absolutely no bed in period? I'll pay you to build an engine, put it in my car - but don't start it. Let me take the car away without running it in. I'll take it out onto the street in front of your place and let it sit there at idle for an hour and a half. We'll see how long it takes for your engine to start pumping smoke. Even the first 20 minutes where you start it up and give it some revs while you might be checking for oil or water leaks etc. That is a run in of sorts. 8000rpm does not mean an engine is being abused. There are plenty of ways to abuse an engine without getting it anywhere near 8000rpm. Yes you do build good engines, and have been building them for many years but don't claim to know how this guys engine failed by looking at one bearing cap. You can assume what happened but not clearly identify the cause of failure. You are giving him false hope. Even though your reason may very well be the cause, there are still dozens of other reasons that may go unaddressed. The factory RB25 pump flows enough oil to run pressures above 80psi. In fact, 90 and 100 psi on a new one. I've built engines with most aftermarket options and it doesn't matter if it's a JUN pump, Tomei pump, N1 or factory pump, they'll all pump good oil, and with proper clearances etc, the pressure is always around the same give or take 10psi. You say there is no guesswork or learning so this means you know absolutely every single thing there is to know about an RB engine. Which is why I am so shocked to read your last comment: "the picture is good enough quality and if one cap is like that all will be." THAT is why I said I am disappointed that came from you. Some engine failures are simple and yes, all the bearing caps will look similar but not the same, close enough I guess. But plenty of times you'll get an engine come in that is not so simple. Something has gone wrong that isn't just a simple fix or simple explanation. What if someone built an engine and there was a grain of sand stuck under the main girdle on one cap between the parting faces. It only got stuck there after all the measurements were taken so it could not have been identified by having a clearance issue. We'll assume the owner of the car has built this engine. I wouldn't expect any decent engine builder to have this issue of course as everything is clean on assembly. The clearance on 3 caps either side of this and the cap in question will have excessive clearance. The engine will still run, it will still have oil pressure, but drive the car for one or two weeks and the main bearings slowly start to wear out. They get worse and worse and finally they are bad enough to effect the oil pressure. Because the main galleries feed the big end galleries, a drop in pressure on the mains is a drop in pressure across the big ends. The engine starts to rattle ONLY when the big ends have failed. The main bearings are all f**ked by this point in time but they have starved the oil to the big ends. The engine is pulled down. The guy who owns the car takes a photo of one of the big end bearings in it's respective cap and Mr Lewis says to him, "This engine has failed due to oil starvation". That is correct. It has failed due to oil starvation. The customer says "ok, so how do we stop it from happening again?". Mr Lewis says "Modify your sump and put in restrictors and extra head returns because you were cornering at 3 times the legal speed limit, cutting across two lanes at 3G's". The customer says "but I was driving in a straight line and I live in the Northern Territory, and the only road I drive on is that big long son-of-a-bitch that goes down the guts. It's never turned a corner in the 500km's it has driven." I don't really care if you have 200yrs engine building experience YOU CANNOT IDENTIFY THE CAUSE OF HIS ENGINE FAILURE BY LOOKING AT ONE CAP

That is disappointing coming from you. I will address your post later this evening when I have more time to correct you.

Exactly what Cartman said. These springs are for the 33 RB25DET with solid lifter conversion. They do not suit Neo. What part number did you get for the camshafts?