The Dan

By 'his' I assume you mean Cobra? That's why I calculated his HP from 3500lbs which suggests he makes 500hp at the wheels. This is bang on the figure you would expect from -5's.

First of all: Air temp and humidity are ALWAYS relevant. They effect HP so they are very important to consider. Secondly: HP is HP, it doesn't matter where in the world you are, only how accurately you measure it and if you don't calculate HP with air temp and humidity involved, your readings are inaccurate. We measure in HP also. We also measure using the metric system of KW but it doesn't matter which reading you take, they are both accurate. Your buddy actually has 400-420hp at the wheels if its still standard weight

1. SAU IS the biggest and best source of information on Skylines in the world. 2. You say you ask a question and want to learn from others. Then listen to what is being said and you will learn from others. 3. 634hp will do a 9.9 in that car. What mph did he run though?

The mph determines what your actual HP figure is closest to, not your time. The fact you ran 121mph and your car weighs 3150lbs means 440-460hp. You say you added weight of approx 300-350lbs so the weight of the car is now 3500lbs. This means you have closer to 490-510hp at the wheels. Your cold weather and shit tyres will have only a small effect on the mph. Go out with slicks on and you might go 1mph faster but you'll do 11.0 instead

Lol at Australian power. We should buy American power instead! I would say the Dyno is reading inaccurately. Considering the moroso calculator is American, there isn't really supposed to be American and Australian HP differences, only how dynos are set up and operated can change their output. That mph suggests you have between 440-460hp at the wheels...... Unless you had 5 people in the car and a few bags of cement in the boot at the time of the run

Sounds like an ignition coil misfire.

It depends on the breaking torque. You can't gauge what shim to use until you know how bad the diff is to begin with.

Cam cover breathers go straight into the intake above the rear turbo. That's where the oil comes from.

Well it matters how much HP you ACTUALLY make because you are asking how much HP your exhaust can handle. If you make more HP than you should be able to on the pipes you have then nothing you are told is going to mean shit What mph does it run at the drag strip?

I highly doubt it. What fuel? But to answer your question, normally 3inch cat back will be ok for 450hp at the wheels. Most of the important stuff is before the cat so it depends on what you have there

Yes. All the other gaskets

Well....that's ok then. My tightarseometer was off the charts. I'm glad you clarified

There's a very good reason people say not to do it. It's been done dozens of times before and it's shit. Why do you think Blitz stopped making the adaptor plates?

Was the new slave cylinder a Nismo big bore? And as far as adjusting goes, you say it made little to no difference. If that is the case then you are doing something wrong or going the wrong way. You should be able to make it engage on the floor if you keep backing it off

Buddy. Stop being a frickin tight arse and buy one to suit your car. Sell that one to someone else.

NPC can

It's also VERY easy to see. The R33 thread pitch is extremely fine thread and obviously larger

The rack end thread is different between R32 and R33. R32 runs a 16 x 1.5mm (could be 1.25mm) pitch on the rear rack end whereas the R33 runs a 18 x 1mm thread pitch.

Looks like condensation. Chilly morning = condensation, especially if you don't drive the car very much. Take the car for a long drive and see if it still does it when the weather is warm (read - above 20deg c)

You've got no game. I'm all over that shit!

Don't let your mate drive your car. He sounds like a f*cken idiot

C'mon mate. It's a dyno! It doesn't lie!!!

Yes it could be a head gasket

Sorry on a mobile and didn't see the X You may proceed

A 3071 making 340rwkw? BS