The Dan

I'm pretty sure that number suits R33 RB25DET, Not Neo. Correct me if I'm wrong. Also I don't think springs are required for a 9.15mm lift upgrade on a Neo either.

Don't give up. These guys love it. I'm with you on this one. Individual weight, tyre size, head wind, 60 foot time even. They all have a lot to do with your trap speed. Your MPH is more of a guess at your power than the other way round so I'd be on side with the dyno on this one. Maybe you only have 270rwkw, maybe 280. It's still respectable and does give a good insight into what that setup can do.

I don't think you'll be able to take off that much without ruining it. You should talk to an engineer near you that does RB engines. I don't think valve clearance will be an issue but you may have to shape the combustion chamber to match the bore size as it may shrink with a shave of that magnitude.

Ok first of all, the oil starvation is the most likely cause but it still doesn't tell you why it failed. The oil pump/restrictor/head return is a crock of shit. Nissan don't have issues with any of that shit. Yes, improvements can be made to the system but at 3k on a fresh engine, it's still a crock of shit. The ONLY time oil control is an issue is if it's an RB26 without sump modifications AND it's on a race track at the time of failure. 3k old engine, so it's likely to be only just finished the run in. The fault can be anything from abuse during run in, to incorrect assembly. And I don't see how any of you other engine builders can pretend to know the cause while only looking at one single BE cap. The picture quality is too poor and it's only one cap. It doesn't matter how many pictures this guy puts up, without inspecting every single piece of the puzzle in detail, you are all just guessing.

That may be true but it is an indication of what can be made from them. And that car was not a 5 minute car either.

What is the part number for the springs you have purchased? Do you have the equipment to change the springs and is the head on the block or off it?

10 - 15 hp generally. It's not really due to being tight and then loosening up, it more to do with there will be a tiny bit more leakdown until the rings bed in.

Sorry I should also mention that was made on a Chinese copy TD06

yeah using a 1.75:1 pressure reg. Final rail pressure at 25psi boost was around 84psi.

The actual cause is heat. But yes, you are right, lack of oil pressure is the most likely cause for the bearing to be damaged, thus causing the heat when it's grinding away at the crank. Who built the engine? Or do you not want to say?

This one is standard injectors with a TD06-20GL2

To overcome that, could you do an overlay map of TPS and Boost? Like 4D mapping etc.?

BTW the calculation I use for injector sizing is (CC of injector / 5) X Number of cylinders = engine hp at max duty. If you start to increase fuel pressure, the calculation changes slightly.

370cc injectors are good for ~450 engine hp. ~80hp drivetrain loss in a GTST = ~370hp at the wheels = ~ 276rwkw So on paper they are good for it. I have had only one customer make near that and it was 272.4rwkw and they were at around 96%. Accel enrich will not come into play as the injectors are rated at 370cc at 40psi. When you start building boost = making power = needing fuel, the factory regulator is increasing fuel pressure so the 370cc goes up to near 390-400cc when you are making 10psi or so. If you are going down a hill doing 80km/h and put it in 1st then just suddenly punch it, maybe...and only maybe you'll run into issues with fuel but I think that would be the least of your worries if you were going to do that.

I never said it was a good idea to run them at maximum either but they can still do it. If we are talking 'relevant to the conversation', the topic states he is chasing 220-240rwkw so I suggested he would not need new injectors as there is a 40rwkw head room before they max out. Also, you'd be surprised how good the 15 year old injectors are. They don't just stuff up with old age, in fact it's quite rare to see those injectors fail.

Read the thread title. And the stock injectors are good for 280rwkw at 100%. Even more if you put on an adjustable regulator.

You will always get better response from the 6. The standard plenum is capable of handling 1000hp so no need to upgrade for that turbo IMO.

Yeah I used to run 19psi boost with splitfires on my RB20 making 260rwkw with a gap of 1.1mm. Never had an issue. It's all about supporting hardware. The bigger the spark, the more power you will make. With less resistance for the coil, it will become lazy. I did an engine for Oblivion and he just had his car tuned at Pro-Torque. He made 250rwkw with his RB25 on PowerFC and Z32. He does have an 80mm throttlebody and Greddy plenum, Nismo pump and Splitfires though. The rest is standard.

I would also get rid of the POS Walbro pump and put in something decent. Also, gap your plugs out to 1.1mm so you can make a little more power. 0.8mm with splitfires is silly.

You will need the Z32 afm to achieve 240. You may get to 220 but it will be at maximum and you risk AFM cut when that happens. Cam gears are beneficial in some cases. With the stock camshafts in place, you may get a very small torque increase in the midrange by retarding the exhaust 2 deg but that's about it. You won't need injectors as these will see you through to 260-270rwkw.

If the pump makes no pressure then there's your problem. How long have you known the pump had no pressure? Surely your mate could have told you that is your cause.

Where are you located?

Even if you have a non-firing injector and you unplug a coil pack, it will still not change anything when you unplug it. That doesn't mean the coil pack is stuffed, it just means that cylinder is not making power. You have located the responsible cylinders which is the first step. Now you just need to find out what is causing the problem. It is possible to have a fuel pump do that, you would need to do a pressure test while driving to see what happens when you put the power down. I would start by checking to make sure you have power to ALL injectors. When they are plugged in you will get battery V on both wires. When unplugged, you will get battery V on only one wire. The other wire is the trigger from the ECU. If you have power at all injectors (with IGN on of course) then you should plug in a NOID light to determine if the injector is firing. If the injector is firing then it will have power but you still need to do the first test to make sure the injector is not open circuit or whatever. If the injectors are all ok and firing, then you can look at the coil packs again. Once again, they need to have power going to them. Find the wire and check it. It will be the same wire on all coil packs. You can plug a HEI tester into the coil end and see if there is spark. If you don't have NOID lights or HEI testers then take it to a mechanic as you don't have the equipment to do proper testing. Or you can buy the equipment or use other things like a 12V test light and a spark plug with the outer electrode bent out to give a large gap ~1cm or so should do. The spark needs to be bright. You can test this by removing the CAS and with the IGN on, turn the end around to simulate the engine running. If you can confirm all these basic things are ok, then we can begin to test other things.

Were you sure the original missfire was due to coilpacks or were you just guessing. What about the injectors or even the plugs for the injectors. PTU maybe? There are still many things it could be. If your friend knows his way around a skyline it should be fairly easy to locate the problem. Swapping parts out is a last resort.

If he's going to fit a Nistune board, what would be the point of changing to a GTR ECU? He could just Nistune the ECU he has and forget about all the stuffing around.