The Dan

Didn't he say it was while cruising? he shouldn't be making any boost while cruising.

You could possibly have a TPS fault, Injector or fuel pump issue, AFM needs a clean. etc. etc. Clean the AFM's, reset the computer again and make sure all the AFM's are plugged in correctly. How long did the car sit while the turbos were being fitted?

Do I really need to answer that? If you have the Getrag box, then do it in 6th instead.

They do not all have the same gear ratios. There are different things that will effect the top speed: Gearset ratios, diff ratios, tyre size, top rpm, and finally the car's wind resistance. But yeah, if you have 2 R32GTR's exactly the same, they would do the same speed at 7k

The ratios are different but they will all do those kinds of speeds if the power, strength of drivetrain and wind resistance is all living in 'the perfect world'. Obviously there are restrictions and this is based on the estimate of ~3000rpm in 5th at 100km/h and every 250rpm higher is ~10km/h faster. The easiest way to tell is to do 100km/h, note the revs, then go up 250 or 500rpm and use this to calculate your top speed at redline. Keeping in mind that it will require approx 450hp at the wheels to go around 200mph and another 100hp at the wheels to go another 20mph. This is approximate also as relayed to me by a mate of mine who races on salt lakes.

The other thing I should add also is, if the changing of settings makes it worse, then try the other way and reduce the figure. This is only a cheap temporary fix. It will help you determine if there is a problem elsewhere which you can then find and understand more easily.

That is a possibility. It is important to test these things which is easy to do with a multimeter. Won't effect the tune that your tuner has put in place. It will effect the amount of fuel being put in but only while you are cranking the engine, not while it is running.

Dear Joshwa, Let's do it! Kind regards, Daniel Candle Wrapping-Machine Operator

With a 11krpm redline it could do 420km/h. Approx 340km/h at 9krpm.

I reckon we could hold one in his honour. Maybe even get him a Skype seat at the end of the table.

Which cancels the whole idea as why not just get it remapped in the first place. Less stuffing around. My advice would be to forget about the GTR ECU and save for a bit longer to get the AEM. You are wasting your money otherwise and you will never be happy with it.

Good afternoooon Cyrus. How is SUNNY QLD? I like it that you are one of the only ones to pwn Josh on many levels in one post.

I think Paul said something about the missfire. It's a very well known issue. Also, the ability to run MAFless is an advantage as you will make more power. And before the MAF fanboys decide to get all argumentative, we've done back to back testing for years and the MAP sensored system always comes out on top for response and overall power. The Vipec and PowerFC are not even in the same league so it's technically impossible to compare the two. One is designed to be a basic tuning tool with moderate features and ease of tunability, the other is an advanced tuning tool with advanced features, faster processing and more accessories inc easier tunability. The powerFC might do everything you want it to do and it may run your car exactly how you want. If it does then leave it there, you don't need the Vipec. If you are somehow trying to get someone to convince you to buy one, you won't get it. Some people need the advanced features and accessories, other don't.

ROFL. If the Vipec is anything like the Autronic it will be able to do AFM and MAP at the same time or either one seperately.

No one has any issues with you not liking a particular workshop. They have clearly not done as you asked. BUT...like I said in the other thread, you really need to get it checked by another party before you can go on a rampage like that. It's not like it just popped up in a conversation or someone asked you for your opinion, you willingly came on to an internet forum and abused someone because you were not happy. I hope you understood the point I was trying to make as I was not intending to come across in an angry way or in a way to diminish your bad experience but you cannot rely on forum advice as gospel truth especially when you come out with guns blazing. Get the evidence first, then fire the shot. I am interested to see how the other tune turns out. Kind regards, Daniel

Are you writing a novel or something? Fuck off.

Single is definitely the way to go. Twins will be way too laggy at those power levels. You will need at least a GT51R to make the 800hp. It's not just a simple task where you can bolt it on and it will just work. It will be quite expensive to just do the single conversion to start with, then you have the risk of breaking your engine if it has not been built accordingly. The turbo will still be lots of fun but unusable power under 4500rpm. You will also need injectors, aftermarket ECU, Fuel system etc etc. This brings you to a whole other level. Where do you stop? If you are going to go that far with it, you might as well just do the whole lot and be done with it. It's only going to cost you around $30k for a ground up build like that.

For starters, anything under 350rwkw and a 3inch system is capable of performing well. If you go for a 3.5inch system it will cost you 30% more for no gain whatsoever (except for the extra loud exhaust note). You can change the cat back system to whatever you like then just bolt on the larger catalytic converter and front section later if you like. If you get something custom made for a dump pipe, it can easily be chopped later if it has to be and would only be around $100 to change it to suit the new turbo.

Get an aftermarket XR6 turbo dump and chop it/adapt it to suit. Or you could just get a custom one made from laser cut flange. That turbo should be good for easy 300rwkw - sorry, just read the 1 bar thing again - As above 250rwkw at 1Bar

+1 Never seen one actually fail unless subjected to stressful situations like extreme heat when cooking a cylinder head. I know they have failed on one or two other peoples cars but the majority of what people may be reading is when someone has a problem and they say 'Have replaced:' then there is always the PTU. But it's never actually the cause. So yeah, definitely NOT a common issue. Brett: I can give you a list of common issues with Skylines if you like, then you can replace all that stuff too if you like.

That turbo has been available for a couple of years now. The dump pipe flange is from an XR6 Turbo. It's just a GT3082R-IW

It can be done, just wire them in accordingly and use the computer from the S2 and you'll be set. You'll probably have to change the TPS and Tbody if you do so. I would have to ask why as it's a pretty silly thing to do. Why not just extend the wiring and hide the unit you have? The S2 coilpack will give you no performance gain so you'll be spending a fair amount of money just so you don't have to look at something.

Take the steering wheel off with BOSS attached and take a photo of the bottom of the BOSS and photo of the steering sensor. Also check to make sure it is even plugged in.

The likely causes are: Steering wheel sensor (behind steering wheel) Pressure Sensor (behind alternator on PS line) Electric motor (on steering rack at back) HICAS computer (Parcel shelf in boot I think in that model) Check the wiring connections to the motor on the rack at the rear and clean with contact cleaner. Take off the steering wheel and ensure the sensor is in the correct position and also the steering wheel you have is the correct one with the correct boss kit. You can test the pressure switch but it probably not going to be the cause.

Yeah that's probably the best thing to do. If you have a bit of spare coin, you can't beat a new upgrade pump though. Peace of mind IMO.