The Dan

You have a HICAS problem. Now all we need to know is what car you have and we might be able to assist you some more

It will read something but it is likely it will be an incorrect reading. didn't you get the senders with the gauges? The sender has to match the gauge. Sometimes you get lucky but unless you have something to compare it to, then you would really be guessing.

I'm pretty sure we were all answering this question last week.

The oil restrictor in the 707160-5 is 0.75mm +/- 0.05mm Leave the factory restrictor in place as it helps to reduce flow. If you were having custom lines made with no restrictor, you may have issues with too much oil, in that case, add a 1.5 - 2mm restrictor before the one that is built into the turbo. It is best to fit these at the block end

Tell him to go back to the 80's. I'm finding out about the restrictors now for the -5. I'll let you know when I get the phone call back from Garrett

If it's a Garrett GT turbo the restrictor is built into the turbo. You do not need to put in another one. If it's a HKS turbo it's the same because it's just a Garrett turbo anyway. As long as you are running 100psi maximum or under, then you do not need to do anything. If you are going to run over 100psi oil pressure at WOT then you may need to put in an extra restrictor. If you tell me what turbo it is, I can tell you what restrictor is in place.

I've been trying to tell people that for years. The standard oil returns can out flow the feeds by 20% due to their size. Finally something we can agree on

+1 Also, the restrictors are actually built into the turbo. It will not really benefit you to drill out the factory banjo but it won't hurt you either.

Check the wiring for breaks going into the CAS. Maybe by removing the unit you are bridging a broken gap in the wire. Long shot but it's the first thing I would check. Also make sure the drive on the camshaft is still there.

The comments I made did not call for a nasty comment in reply. I have fixed enough of these so called 'successful upgrades' to know otherwise. I have tried to understand why the problem occurs but, unfortunately, it's not as simple as just asking the guy down the street for answers. I did not build the powerfc, nor did program the software, so I cannot shed you any light on the subject conclusively. I have, however, given you information that I and another reputable mechanic have come across while researching the cause of the problem. If you want to be pig headed about it, then go right ahead. I'm just trying to give you the information it has taken months to come across. GTR injectors on 32, 33 or 34. I've replaced them all at one stage or another for leaks. Don't think for a second that they are a reliable option. If you want the budget option then accept the budget idle. I know many people have done this changeover without problems but it would seem Apexi have changed they way they make their units from the ones that work to the ones that don't. It may be a simple fix, which I hope it is for you, but unless you are willing to take advice from people who spend their lives doing this sort of thing, then you are not going to get anywhere.

A 16inch SPAL fan from PWR will flow 3000cfm. I don't know of any that flow higher but they are good value if you are having cooling issues and they can't be fixed by the normal maintenance procedures.

As I understand it, the POWERFC triggers the injectors in a different way or has a different way of reducing resistance or increasing it. I'm not 100% sure of the exact issue but I've fixed them before by putting injectors in that actually suit the car. Putting standard GTR injectors back into a GTR is a shit of an idea to start with, let alone putting them into an RB20 with resistors. They are almost guaranteed to leak and with the cost of install of resistors, install of injectors, and then the cost of the injectors themselves you could have had a set of SARD 550's for about $100-$200 more and it would be running sweet right now.

Just to add to that Also because the new torque required by the ARP bolt can distort the bigend tunnel. Anywhere from 0.001 to 0.003 difference can be found just by torquing them down to the new figure.

Any reason for not liking ACL Race series? or is it just a personal preference? And are you referring to the King Alloys?

Then they are correct. I would almost go from 'recommended' to 'required'.

It is recommended that the rod tunnel be resized when installing new conrod bolts.

I think you are mis-interpreting my comments also. I will clarify again. Jim Berry is an awesome clutch builder. His clutches are used worldwide or at least nationwide in many high profile cars without problem. I'm not sure of the statistics but maybe 99% of his clutches go out with the correct material present in the cover I'm not slagging him or his business in any way as I am fully aware of his skill. The clutch fitted to Noels car was made from SECOND HAND PARTS and he used a non-nodular pressure plate. Clearly this could be one of the 1% of clutches that leave in such a way. Then to add to all of that, I never fitted the clutch. I do, however, know the people who did. I know the clutch was fitted with the correct items in your list as I checked with Noel and the other fitter prior to posting my comment. I don't really care what any of you think of me for saying any of this. The FACT is that it happened. It happened as a result of using inferior quality parts and that can be PROVEN. Noel has chosen not to persue it as Jim talked his way out of it in a personal conversation with Noel. This conversation included the comments 'There is no such thing as an anti-burst clutch cover'. Noel declined my offer to attend a meeting with Jim on the matter as Noel is a little out of his depth in this area. He declined because he was of the opinion it would get us nowhere. If even one life is saved as a result of me making people aware of the dangers, then I can continue living my life without wondering if I could have helped prevent it. I AM NOT SAYING DON'T BUY A JIM BERRY CLUTCH. HE MAKES SOME OF THE BEST CLUTCHES ON THE PLANET. JUST CHECK YOUR CLUTCH TO MAKE SURE THE MATERIALS IN IT ARE SATISFACTORY FOR THE JOB. And if anyone wants to come at me with so called slander accusations, I will get two reputable clutch companies to confirm what I am saying is correct. One of them pulls apart full monties with second hand parts on a regular basis. Can everyone stop be naive and do some research on clutch explosions and non-nodular clutch pressure plates? It is a real danger.

Well I know of a car that was written off and two other clutch explosions aside from this one to begin with. What do I have to do with them? It's one of my good friends who nearly lost his life because of it. So maybe tone your shit down and listen to what is being said. Read the post again if you have to...or get someone else to read it to you, it may sound different the second time. Noel did persue it with Jim and Jim's words were: "There is no such thing as an antiburst pressure plate and clutch cover" "These mechanics you are talking to don't know what they are talking about" "Every other clutch builder in the country is just jealous of me" Jim told Noel a few other things but you will have to get him to tell you that. I have seen the clutch. I have seen 3 or 4 others. They all use second hand parts. NOT ALL COVERS HAVE NON-NODULAR CAST IRON PRESSURE PLATES IN THEM. I have no doubt there are many that go out with the antiburst cover and pressure plate but in THIS case it did not. These are FACTS, you can choose to listen or not. I'm not bagging his clutches but there is a safety issue that need to be addressed. People's lives are certainly at risk. All it takes is one to go the wrong way and it's someone's death on his hands.

I've got the guys at Garrett having a look but they may not be able to identify it. I'll let you know if they do.

I fixed a couple of things and added your expected labour charges.

Not bagging them out moreso than a warning to others about the dangers of using ANY clutch that has a non-nodular pressure plate. Jim just happens to use second hand parts for his Full Monty clutches. He sometimes may use the newer exedy covers which are all made from nodular cast iron but most of the ones he builds is using the old seco or nissin(I think that's the manufacturer) covers. These old covers are a plain cast iron which will shatter when stressed too much. It's the same as RB30 flywheels. They have a groove around them that the skyline ones don't (easiest way to identify them) and they are also a non-nodular cast iron. These will shatter also. You have been warned. Take this information and use it however you wish. I'm not saying Jim can't build a clutch as he is a genius in his work. The second hand parts, in this case, do let him down though.

Unless, of course, you were also joking, then I would like to reaffirm: 2. Done

jks of course. There are 3 locating dowels. All were used. All cover bolts used.

2. Done