The Dan

+1

Please post pictures and also why it is you think they are ceramic. I'm not sure why you think that's funnier. Poor choice of words. I'm a Garrett dealer, not distributor. I didn't mean to offend you. Thanks for correcting me on that one, though, I didn't want to go through life with that kind of confusion.

That's good. Anything around that or up to 110 is fine really. Even over 110 is fine but its less desirable. Your pressure is good.

You mean flow?

That's ludicrous!

Idle oil pressure is not so important. As long as clean oil is flowing and you have at least 5psi at idle then the engine will not fail as a result. it is better that you have 190kpa (27.5psi) at warm idle. There is no real 'too much' amount but if I were going to say 'geez that's a bit high', it would be at around 275kpa (40psi). Pressure above 110psi can sometimes lead to issues with seals etc but normally that kind of pressure is only at cold start and/or full throttle with a shimmed high flowing pump - and even then it's only for a short period. Make sure you have 275kpa (40psi) at around 2500-3000rpm, 410kpa(60psi) at around 4000-6000rpm. Anything over 6000rpm, try to ensure you have at least 60psi but not so important as long as your revs stay under 7000rpm.

Take a boost reading before and after the intercooler. Any restriction will be evident in the readings. Any more than 2psi and it's time for an upgrade

Sounds like you may not have it calibrated correctly in the unit using the PC software. I had the same issue as it was using a 2v spread instead of a 5v. Also, I had issues with the gas flowing past the sensor too quickly and the readings would freeze. I bought the tailpipe adaptor and it works great now. The delay is split second and you're tuner should know what he is doing anyway so it won't matter.

It is possible they did that but these are factory R34 GTR turbos as indicated by their 14411-AA300 part number. And to top it off Garrett list the corresponding number of theirs as having a steel wheel. Also, will ceramic shine when you scratch it? The articles you have posted up may be correct but how do you know the information they had was correct? This is from Garrett themselves for THIS turbo. They may not all be the same. Someone give me a different number and I will have it checked. EG. 14411-AA302 will have a 702 number above it. Can someone have a look on theirs (if possible) to see what that number is. I'll get whatever information I can.

The stock NEW fuel pump should, yes. How NEW is yours?

Basic head porting with 15% improvements will set you back around $800. Your best bet is to talk to Marty. Tell him everything you have said there and get his opinion. No one on this forum can argue he is probably the best in the industry. I do porting myself but whenever it comes to major re-construction I take them to him.

I don't understand what you mean by ceramic turbine and ball bearing compressor wheel? The compressor and turbine are joined by a shaft and the ball bearings are in the centre. I have not been referring to the compressor wheel in any of my comments, only the turbine wheel. They are referring to ceramic dust that gets inside the engine. I have not personally seen this happen. The other guy said before something about a vacuum and it sucks the blades or chunks of blades back into the engine. I find that highly unlikely and would be almost impossible but you never know. What is more likely is that due to the fact the turbine is missing, the shaft kicks and the compressor wheel then grinds/chips into the compressor cover. These particles can then follow the air stream into the engine.

Increasing compression by making the head gasket thinner is extremely poor practice. Using copper gaskets to do this is even worse and as far as expensive goes...o ringing your block and getting the copper gasket made would be the same cost as getting a head port. If you want to talk to the king of porting, ring Marty White - 0733917533

Slows velocity but increases flow. Your engine is an air pump, the more air you can get in and out, the better. It improves both response and overall power potential. There is, of course, the possibility of porting too much and going backwards, but you have to take out an incredible amount to do this. With camshafts, an increase in lift only is required for better response. That, and possibly some cam timing changes. A set of custom grind cams or even a set of GTR cams will do nicely. Time them with a set of gears and do a slight clean up of the cylinder head and you will get massive results.

Yeah if you are hearing the compressor sucking in air when it winds down. It could be a small hole in the pipe between the AFM and the turbo. Check the small connections coming off it and the recirc pipe for the BOV there.

You may be right but I've never seen revs go up to 2k when a pipe comes loose or off. They always go down. This is only what I have seen though, and you may still be correct. And ditto on the fuel reg. Put the standard one on but get all your pressures checked as well, once it's on.

Without vac it should be around 35-40. At idle it shouldn't be jumping around unless it's directly related to the engine revs going up and down. How much does it jump around on pressure? and does it move consistently with the revs or does the pressure jump, then the revs go up?

Check wiring to AFM and confirm voltages are correct at ECU and at AFM. Is the SARD reg set correctly? and what pressure is it ONLY at idle with vac line OFF. Have you checked for other air leaks that may not be cooler pipe like plenum gasket, inlet manifold gasket, injector o rings etc? Do a compression test, you need to make sure the engine is good but I doubt there is anything wrong there. Is the TPS set correctly and have you had someone check the settings in the Remapped ECU? What were you doing or what happened immediately prior to it happening? and be honest

Wouldn't copying pages from FAST be a bit risky for copyright reasons?

Why? Sounds like you are trying to re-invent the wheel. Cams and head porting = the response you are after.

Yeah not too sure. They didn't really delve much into the metalurgy but I couldn't get a reading. possibly due to carbon buildup or possibly because of the inconel but the wheel does shine if you scratch it. Hard to check while the wheel is trying to turn and the scratch is so small.

That is why it is important to have the part number checked. Just because one is, doesn't mean all are

Good Morning Daniel, 702987-5003 R34 GTR V-SPEC FACTORY Turbocharger as advised by Garrett Australia is ball bearing and has a steel turbine wheel from the factory. Compressor Wheel – Ind – 39.60mm – Exd – 56.00mm Turbine Wheel Exd – 41.73mm (same as Jap Spec S15) 707160-5007 – GT2860R (GTR upgrade) Compressor Wheel – Ind – 44.59mm – Exd – 60.00mm Turbine Wheel Exd – 42.40mm From Garrett ^^

Thanks for the explanation. But do we really have to go through this again and again. I'm not some kind of idiot that just walked in off the street. I am a Garrett distributor and Garrett themselves have that turbo listed as having a steel wheel. They make the turbo, I think they would know what they put in it. If you want to ring Garrett and tell them they are idiots, then go right ahead. *waits for Dirt to tell me it's some kind of marketing device* By the way ^^^ that's a joke so don't get all cranky at me.

Type (see below) RB20DET Twin cam, in-line 6, Turbocharged Displacement 1998 cc Compression Ratio 8.5:1 Max. Power; kW/bhp 160/214 @ 6400 rpm Max. Torque; Nm/ft-lbs 263/194 @ 3200 rpm Bore x Stroke; mm 78 x 69.7 Redline 7600 rpm Fuel Injection Nissan EGI (ECCS)