The Dan

fark me! for 3.5k you could have gone GT3076 with external gate inc. fitting etc. IT would make way more than a highflow

Take the car to a mechanic and have them do a compression and leakdown test. If that passes then you have most likely got a faulty turbo on your hand. Not surprising due to all the chinese copy covers that GCG are using on their Garrett units now to save a buck.

the problem is not with the spring, so putting in a genuine Tial or turbosmart spring won't do anything. The Tial 38mm gates are only $475 and you can't really beat them for quality.

yes they are the same as far as I have seen

Then put in on the cam as well. What system are you using for management?

Have you considered using the GT101 hall effect sensor with an external chopper disc running behind the crank timing sprocket? This is probably the most effective way to setup something like you are talking about. Has been done many many times before and is really quite simple to do.

That's vac hose off

In that case, that TB will be perfect for what you need

When you are referring to the VCT housing moving seperate to the camshaft, if you are saying that the VCT cam pulley moves while the cam remains still...that is not supposed to happen. Check to make sure you don't have a snapped cam first by removing the cam covers and then check the locking bolts in the back of the VCT cam pulley. There is adjustment there and if the locking bolts have loosened, it will be able to move 10 degrees or so but that's about it.

Then street cred = decreased air velocity

Is there something in particular you need to know or are you just wanting to see how it works?

The shielding is not for axial strength or to protect from sharp objects. Did you just make that up? You are correct about the induced voltages but the shielding is necessary. The interference from the coil packs and injectors is enough to disrupt the voltage signal from the AFM. On a sensor where 0.01V will change the tune position on the map, I'd say it is an absolute necessity to have the shilding in place. If the crimps are bad practice, you had better tell Nissan, Toyota and Mazda, not to mention Motec and all the V8 supercar teams. Crimps are the only way you should join wires on an ECU. The copper wire might be malleable enough but the solder definately is not. That is where the problem is. The resin in the solder also makes the wire brittle. The solder cracks under vibration and if you solder the wire 'properly' it most often cracks beneath the insulation and you'll spend a month trying to find a break in the wire or an inconsistent signal every time the wind blows. Did you use a 12V test light or a LED test light? The LED test light will give inaccurate readings as they will light up on 0.2V. What is the signal voltage you are getting while the ign is on but the car is not running? Then get someone to crank it and test the voltage then as well. It should have approx 0.5V while ign on and 1V while cranking. Use a multimeter to do this. I haven't misled anyone. You're a nasty chap aren't you. You may have the error code window on the back of the ECU or you can join two wires on the diagnostic connector. I forget which ones but they will flash error codes via the engine check light on your dash. I hope it all works out for you.

The only reason you would need a 100mm throttle body is if you are making 800hp or more. I'd even say that 100mm TB is not needed until you tip over the 1000hp mark.

You are actually correct Chris. It is an RB25. I just looked up the part number on the ACL website. The part number of the piston is RB25DET but the block has the provision for the alloy sump with front diff so I'd say it's out of a GTS4. Sorry to get you xcited Cruiser

edited...see below

20 and 25 are identical. 30 will fit 20 and 25 also but you can't put a 20 or 25 sump on a 30 bottom end without shaving the baffles off the rear section as they foul on the crankshaft/conrods.

Engine also looks to be R33 GTR or could be N1, check for markings on the block as I can't read them properly on the side from your photos. The rust will be ok, just have it cleaned properly. Make sure you have the piston to bore clearance checked when you disassemble it to make sure it will be a good engine when you are finished

Those part numbers are from an ACL Race Series forged piston. They are 20thou oversize. Being an RB26, they will actually be a ROSS Piston. If you look on the under side of them straight under the gudgeon pin, you will notice the ROSS brand has been CNC machined off them.

actually there is another way also: 4. drill and tap a thread somewhere near the factory unit or weld on a bung to suit. Requires a fair amount of skill as the wall is not thick so it would be difficult to get many threads to bite

3 options: 1. find a temp sensor that has the same thread size and pitch as the factory unit (single wire sensor at front of engine) 2. go to your local hose or fittings place and buy a thread adaptor to match the threads and use the factory location 3. Buy a temp sender radiator hose adaptor and cut into you top radiator hose.

NEVER LET THE CAR IDLE! Start the engine and vary revs from 2-2500rpm as Sean suggested. Get someone to check for leaks of any kind while you do this or check your self while someone else does the revs. Just go up and down up and down. Do that for about 10 minutes until you are satisfied that it will drive safely. Make sure the car doesn't blow any black smoke and the oil pressure is good before you go. When you start it, it should have between 80-110psi cold and once warm expect between 30-40psi. Monitor the oil gauge at all times. Go for a drive and load it up on hills ie. 5th gear at 1500-2000rpm and try to climb the hill. On the downhills, put it in 3rd an decel. Get the engine to work on the downslope as the vacuum it creates will pull the rings against the bore. When you come to a stop at lights, free rev in neutral every 30 seconds or so, just blip the throttle to avoid long periods of idle. You will need to drive like this for at least the first 250kms

Unfortunately the Air Flow Meters are going to be your limiting factor there but I was sure you would still squeeze a tiny bit more out of it. Even so, it's not always about the number on the paper, it's about how it drives and does it feel as fast as you would like it? A good tune is hard to come by so if it drives the way you want, i'd say you're on a winner mate.

I thought the T51R had Vband section for the turbine in and out? Or is it the Garrett version?

Try running less boost and more timing. And are you sure the tuner wasn't just winding in the fuel to compensate for a dying pump? Maybe a new pump might help to keep things in order. But without seeing the car, it's anyones guess really.

Your Boar has nothing against my Ram. My Ram has trained with the best Buddhist Monkeys for decades