The Dan

I don't even know what you are but I can see you must be equally as thick. Anyone who knows what they are doing knows not to solder ECU wires. You are supposed to use proper terminal crimps because soldering the wire makes it brittle and it can break. And BTW, Both Hydraulic and Hydro are based from the same Greek and Latin words which mean water but because we don't speak either of these languages, the base root of the word has evolved to mean 'liquid' So Hydraulic Lock is the correct term for use in that situation

How much for just the wastegate?

The diff is at the front and back of the car...not in the gearbox

Should I drain all of the oil out of the hydraulic ram and motor in my hoist at work? Are they supposed to run water?

Get a new battery and re-wire your AFM.... oh and don't do stupid stuff like pour fuel into cylinders...or oil for that matter. Can anyone say 'bent rod' And a pinched o ring on an injector will not cause it to deliver more fuel - think about it

Why would you have to tell your tuner what AFR's? He/She should know that. And 14.7 is safe provided you run the appropriate timing to suit it. But I suggest you stay on or below 12 if you don't know what you are doing.

They are o ring from factory

Dyno was a dynamics at a place called Dyno Source but they have closed now. Dr Drift was the tuner and we did the car over a 5 or 6 episode. Replacing parts as they ran out of room to make power. It was an experiment to see the max hp from each item. 233rwkw before cams, 260 after cams and 1psi less boost plus 2 deg less timing. I didn't get a print out of the last 260 run because the guy that owns dyno source kicked us out coz his wife just went into labour. Dr Drift is a member on here so you can ask him if you need credible evidence.

That's why I said in a perfect world. 350-375rwkw is not out of the question but they aren't all 100% at the age they are becoming. You won't know until you do a flow test at 12 V and work out exactly how much that particular pump flows. Even then it's not exactly going to be 100% accurate. The pump could be f**ked and you might run out of fuel at 250rwkw, who knows? The only way to tell for sure is to do a flow test under pressure once you have it. 2nd hand parts = hit and miss

Holy jebus! Let's pick a random number out of the sky on that one lol. Who does a 264 x 11mm lift? Put a set of pon cams in it. I made 260rwkw with them and they were great in the midrange Pon cams = 256 x 8.5mm lift

RB25 and 26 bolts are exactly the same Back plates are both the same except GTR has a small cut out for the front driveshaft. Either one will work for you. Starter motors are swapsies too

I'd still use the 44. The gate pretty much has to be big enough to relieve pressure from the turbo enough to slow the turbine down sufficiently to maintain a constant boost level. If you go too small it will spike, sometimes harshly. As I said, a 38 will do the job, not quite sure if it'll spike for you as it's too close to call. Maybe you're paying too much for the 44 and if you found someone who could sell you one at a better price, you might be persuaded to get the 44 anyway. You should put it as close to the base of the turbo as you can. You will need to have it spray welded onto the manifold as you can't weld mild steel, or anything else for that matter, to cast. It needs to be spray welded to deal with the expansion/contraction of the manifold. Goodluck

First of all I would have to assume the engine you are using, then the revs you will be taking her to, then the turbo you are using. So if it's an RB25 with a GT3X type turbo and revving to ~8krpm... A 38 will do the job but bigger is better in this case. Better boost control will be had with the 44.

PM Fineline

PM Shanef. He makes the adapter plates. His adapter plates are the only ones that actually fit properly. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/shanef-m20917.html

In a perfect world when they are new and the breezes blow east at 2 knots they should flow approx 250L/hr capable of supporting ~600 engine hp

Make sure you check your TPS calibration as sometimes this can cause surging if it has been set too low.

Yeah definately a good option on the balance pipe but I reckon option 2 is still his best bet. I put a set of HKS 2510's on a GTR with usual supporting mods. When I say, I put on, I mean they were already on the car when we started working on it but made quite a few changes before we put them back on. Mainly head porting and cams. Injectors were your usual big mofos and we deleted the tune and started from base map again with corrections for injector sizing. It surged quite harshly on cruise but it was easily tuned out. The reason for this particular surging was it was running slightly lean on cruise. Fattened it up a tad and it's smooth as sillk now. You are right about the -5's also but you forgot to mention they are a better turbo...not just better suited. I sold a pair to Russel Newman back when the GIANT GTR was still taking names 2 years ago and he commented on these to me a few weeks back saying that they definately went a shit load faster on the -5's than the -10's that they fitted to it later on. His advice was to wind 'em up and let 'em go. They made approx 735hp at the wheels on those turbos. - a tad off topic though but thought I would share the fact that they are real performers and the necessity to go up to a -10 is only present if chasing 750-800hp.

what ECU are you using?

Have you tried Dr Drift? He is Melbourne and an extremely good tuner. 0425818755

Yeah, just don't spray it on your exhaust. Even if you did it would be fairly hard to start a fire as it evaporates before it does so. I use this method all the time and have not once had an issue. Only spray it on the pipe connections and the vacuum hoses and you'll be fine.

If you are referring to the fitting with the yellow paint on it....that is supposed to be like that. And it helps if you can identify the item you are referring to. Paint is your friend. As for finding vacuum leaks. An easy way to do so is buy a can of Aerostart and, while the engine is running, spray it over all the vacuum hoses and pipe connections. You will notice what happens when you hit a vacuum leak. Spray a tiny bit into the air filter to test it out. By 'left side of the engine area', you would be referring to the Turbo side....but I'm guessing you are saying left because it's on your left when you are looking at the engine bay from the front of the car. You will be able to hear the PCV valve sucking at idle and it makes a noise like a leaking vacuum hose. Check it all out anyway

What's your mod list look like? Maybe you can make some other small changes to bring on power sooner.

Been gay long?

I challenge you to find any Vauxhaul that can last as long as a VN Commodore. All of the early H series Holdens were made in Aus. All of the early V series Holden Commodores were made in Aus and the late ones made in America. Small car range comes from Vauxhall. Motec, Autronic, Haltech and Microtech computers are all made and designed in Australia. These are the best computers on the planet. Why would it be any different for this one? As for steaks - maybe you just keep buying shit steak. Get yourself a good grade 5 Wagyu or King Island Rib Eye and cook it well. I can tell you now it won't be a brick. And on that note, a good steak is like a good car. Vauxhall make all the Woolies steaks (and the steaks you'll find at most mainstream butchers), whereas Holden have the gourmet steaks that melt in your mouth. PowerFC's are well priced for what they are. They have their limits though. Many of them. The things is, though, people will always complain about the price of things. It's the Aussie way. Most people don't understand the hard work that goes into these things and expect to just pay for raw materials.