The Dan

As with any problem on a car, it could be many things. From the description, though, I would say the AFM is you most likely cause. That's not to say it couldn't be something else though. Try testing the sensors with your multimeter.

Are you referring to just a GT28R or another turbo in the GT28 family ie. GT2876R?

Nah, I meant have you spoken to Sam about diagnosing it? Or did you get his chip done through some other place like Mercury?

Sounds like a good suggestion. Have you tried talking to Sam about it?

Try having your injectors cleaned. THIS IS NOT A COILPACK OR SPARK PLUG FAULT Your coilpack would have to be pretty fubar to miss at idle.

Is this enough?

Any semi synthetic or full synthetic oil is going to do the job. Full synthetic oils are a little bit better at handling tougher conditions so if it's a daily driver, you can leave oil changes to 10k intervals as the oil is more resistant to breaking down. Semi synthetic oils you'll need to change every 5-7k. Pick an oil that is readily available in your area, a good price and has a good name. Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, Motul 4100 or 8100, Penzoil etc etc. These are all capable of doing the job well. If you are tracking the car, then you need to be a tiny bit more picky on the oil you choose. What are you going to be using the car for?

That may be the case. Pull them out and have them checked. You will know for absolute certain then. Usually all you need to do is spray some carby clean around to clean the area then have someone start the car. while you watch the small hole in the side of the injector. If it's the top seal, it will leak before the car is started. If it's the injector it'll leak once it starts. The bottom oring will only leak air, not fuel.

Nah, these injectors actually leak from the body. There is no way to fix them.

The don't ignite on that side. The injectors can blow out which means you won't be just weaping or slow leaking, it will pour out with force. It then runs very quickly down to the bottom of the engine, onto the sump and back towards the gearbox. From this point it can go two ways, one way leads to hot exhaust. 50% chance of it going that way, even better chance it will catch on fire. Why don't you just replace them?

Well said ^

BCPR6ES-11. Z387 I recommend Royal Purple $66 / 5L Oil Filter Z145A

Ooh shit, the owner stuffed up there. I better run around slagging him off to everyone. Sounds like you are all jealous. I didn't realise the owner of this car had anything to prove to any of you. Mistakes were made, it doesn't make the car any less impressive. Sure there was a bit of a hype but it's not the end of the world. He doesn't have to wait until Autosalon 2009 to prove himself again. I challenge any of you to pay for some power runs on a dyno, go watch it in the flesh. Or pay him to come up and put it on one of your dynos if it's that important to you.

I'm not sure if anyone else noticed it but if you read his first post he mentions the rear turbine housing. But if you think about it, the turbine housing is going to be just as hot, if not hotter, than the manifold. I don't see how the oil could run along the turbine housing, drip onto the manifold, then burn on the manifold. It would be burning on the turbine housing before it even dripped. That is why I deduced that he was actually referring to the compressor cover but called it a turbine housing. I could be way off though.

That's a great price. You can get the Mahle pistons with eagle rods for about the same ~$1650-$1700. I've never used the Pauter rods before, let us know how they look and how well they work once you have it running. It's good to get feedback on those sorts of things

I would expect a week at most. You can detach the pipe and clean it out if you want. That oughta sort it out.

Just thought I'd add a useful piece of info to that: To the best of my knowledge I don't think HKS, Tomei etc actually make their own pistons. They use companies like Mahle, ROSS, Cosworth etc to make them to their specs. And yes, the rings are known to be better on the Mahle set. A lot of other companies like JE, ROSS etc use Mahle rings. CP use their own. Good choice on the CP's BTW

How much were the pistons and rods?

You need to make sure the crankcase can actually vent. Does the catch can have a filter on it? If not, then don't block that fitting as the engine will build up pressure and pop the dipstick out or blow an oil seal somewhere or it can make the turbos leak from the seals. Primary objective is to let the breathers vent to a neutral pressure system. If you have two of the breathers going to a can that has no vent filter, the one that points to the passenger wheel is blocked and the one that points to the driver's wheel goes to the PCV Valve, then the crankcase cannot expel the pressure build up so it will escape another way....a more undesirable way.

....and I wouldn't call 28thou excessive in a 3.425 inch bore. People cringed when engine builders started running closer to 3thou BE clearances but it was all for a reason. Ring technology these days is that far advanced from the 90's. You don't need to run tighter end gaps to keep it sealed.

In a way yes, we have not yet established if his engine is turbocharged or not. So that would be a start.

Yeah nice. But when he cranks the boost up and binds the ring ends because you told him to run 17thou, how are you going to explain that to this guy. If you don't follow the instructions made by the manufacturer then you are asking for problems. Or do you just choose the information you adhere to or not? I don't really care what piston to bore clearance you run and I certainly don't need your advice. I just think you need to think about the consequences of giving advice like that in a place like this.

Great! so now you know more than the piston manufacturer. Congratulations. I just hope this guy has the good sense to not listen to your comment and instead listen to the people who make the piston and rings. But hey, I could be wrong. While you're at it, give him your rule of thumb on piston to bore clearances. We wouldn't want him making the mistake of using the piston manufacturers specs on that one.

Mahle would be at the top of the list CP, ACL, ARIAS come second JE and WISECO Third This is only my opinion as I have used all but Arias. I know of quite a few high hp cars running Arias pistons. The queastion is really not what is the best piston, but which one you can get and is there a local dealer that can supply parts or sort out warranty if things aren't right. If you get the full set of pistons interstate or from overseas you can almost bet every time that the locks will be wrong or the rings will be missing or one ring missing, or the end gaps are too large to begin with. Any number of issues that I have encountered with every set you mentioned....(except Arias coz I haven't used them obviously). I've never heard of an engine failure from any of the pistons you have mentioned just because it was the brand it was. They will all do the same thing essentially. Some extra thought and engineering has gone into the Mahle piston over the rest but that's why I put them at the top. All of the other are just as likely to melt if your tuner is an amateur.