The Dan

The calculation comes out at 22.2thou so 23 or 24 will be fine For the second ring 26-28 will be fine at that bore size. Do not go smaller and add 1.5 thou for every 100 shot of NOS you are running if applicable.

If you are local to Brisbane you can borrow the tool I have for doing it. It will undo and do up the bolt with very little effort. The correct way to tension the belt (if you don't have the weight to get exact load) is to loosen the tensioner so that the bearing can swivel freely. Make sure the belt is on and the marks are lined up. Turn the crank around slowly in a clockwise rotation. You will notice at certain intervals it will become difficult to turn as the pistons try to make compression (obviously the spark plugs have to be in for this). When it is most difficult to turn you will notice the tensioner bearing move against the slack in the belt. Hold the tension on the engine (ratchet or spanner) and tighten the nut for the tensioner with a 14mm spanner. This should give you the correct tension.

don't use sealant, you'll only make the leak worse. Replace them. The oil at the front of the turbo is likely to be coming from the rocker cover breather that vents back into the pipe on the intake. Fit a decent catch can to eliminate this. Oil from the turbine housing could be an oil seal but is probably coming from the oil feed etc. as stated above. Have it checked out or clean it down and check it again in a couple of days. You be able to see where the leak comes from easier that way.

Me

That's a poor installation by whoever fitted the Alt belt. Too much tension or starting the car before there is water in the system fully will cause the pump to go awol. Best rule of thumb to use is when the belt is tensioned, you should be able to turn the belt 90 degrees on it's side on the longest side of the belt. So if you are doing the alt belt, anywhere on the belt between the alt pulley and the water pump pulley, grab the belt and twist it sideways. It should turn 90 degrees but no more than that. If it's difficult to get 90 degrees then it's over tight, if it goes past 90 then it's too loose.

Gates makes the belts for Nissan and also they do the Racing version. The racing version is more likely to be noisy than the Nissan belt. It all has to do with harmonic of the belt. If you have the genuine belt and an aftermarket gear, the gear could be slightly out of round or the material that is used for the gear is coarse. Don't stress about the noise for the time being. The belt will not break. On that note, I hope they changed the idler bolt (M10 x 70mm) as this little bastard has a habit of breaking when the belt has been changed.

I would agree with actuators being the issue. No boost until 5500rpm then it comes up to 6psi. Sounds like the gate is slightly open. You don't always hear the rattle either. Even if they are adjusted correctly and the actuators are stuffed, they may be cracking open at 1psi and bleeding everything off until you create the required gas flow. You need to put a mighty-vac on the vac line and pump pressure into the actuator. You will be able to see the arm move when you have created the opening pressure. If they move at 1 or 2 psi, then bin them. If they move at 10psi, adjust the arm.

There is no in tank 044. There is an 040 which is an in tank pump but it flows much less. You can use the 044 and mount it in tank but it is not an in tank pump as such. Knock of 35 is not bad. I would start to be concerned after 40 or so but anything around 35 will be fine. 25k on an engine? What the hell did they put in there? I can build a whole car with a 800hp engine including suspension and brakes for ~ $25k. That figure can't be right

That's the first I've heard of it. Buy a reputable brand and you shouldn't have any problems. Even the cheaper stuff like Thermal Flex and KKR Silicon tubing I have never had issues with

That fuel pump isn't in tank. And if you have the intank model then it is likely to be an 040 which won't see you all the way to 420hp anyway. Also check for small boost leaks using an isolation pressure charge system

You will know if you do a compression test. Have you checked your catalytic converter? There are many many many things that could be draining your power. It's foolish to make a guess without coming forward with all the details of what has been tested and other possible symptoms

The new belt will need time to bed into the new gear. It is possible that the belt is slightly too tight but give it a month or so and it should quieten down.

-5 is R33 N1 -7 is R34 N1 Well this is what Garrett tell me anyway

just buy some 1200 grit wet and dry sand paper and gently rub over them. Once done. Spray them in WD40 and store in a bag or box. The rust should almost rub off with your bare fingers.

1 heat range colder for every 100-150hp more than stock as a general rule. What happens when you are making more than 600rwhp? Good question...change the plug to a group 9 or something similar. PS. This does not mean heat range 9

It really depends on what method of calculation you are using. If you are just trying to plot compressor maps and need something that will give you a good close guide. Stay with 90%. I have found that it is closer to the mark with the below equation A good way to work out air flow in lb/min for a given engine is: (Displacement X RPM X VE X Pressure Ratio) / 5660 = CFM.... / 14.27 = lb/min This is only a guide mind you. There are many other factors involved to accurately calculate Air Flow etc. Displacement = 2.0, 2.5, 2.6 etc. etc. RPM = You can use this to calculate air flow at different RPM values so you can see what RPM the turbo will come on boost etc VE = Stick with 90% for arguments sake and for this excercise Pressure Ratio = well....pressure ratio Some good reading: http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_techn..._efficiency.htm

Step Brothers is supposed to be awesome. Katrinas sister said she was in tears from the start til the end.

There are no other tests he can do other than the ones mentioned above. The oil won't be coming from the head gasket. Change the RC gaskets and clean the oil down. Drive it for a couple of days and see if the oil re-appears. I think he maybe made a comment without thinking about it and is now trying to backpeddle via bullshit. Call his bluff, tell him you know he is full of shit, there is no test that can tell you where the oil is coming from. Fix the highest leak...clean down...and re-check.

Yeah, not sure why they have done that. It would be good to know whether they have reported the wrong trim or wheel dimension. I'm guessing it's the wrong wheel dimension. If they have mis-reported the wheel dimension then it would mean the 4508 is exactly the same turbo. Why buy HKS when Garrett have the same product for less then half price.

That's not hearsay, that's a fact. The dimensions given in that diagram calculate at a trim of 89. They are saying trim 85. Do the math, either they have reported the wrong trim, or the wrong wheel dimension.

Holden Commodore VN-VT Nissan Pulsar Nissan Xtrail etc, etc. All use A360 for an air filter...same as yours

I don't exactly understand where you have gone with this. My comment was: 1000cc injectors should be capable of exactly 1200 engine hp. Considering he would only be making 1100-1150 engine hp...it's high but not impossible. I said 'should be capable of'. I don't see how I have made an assumption or guesstimate? Someone was saying you can't make 1000whp using 1000cc injectors. I did a calculation and found that it could still be possible so pointed that out. No assumptions or guesstimates there mate. If you really really want me to, I will calculate the exact amount. I will also list the common types of fuels including their burn rates and tell you exactly how many CC's each one needs to flow to make that much hp. Or you can just accept the fact that all I was saying was 1000cc injectors could still do the job.

Ok so you're saying that 1000cc injectors are not capable of supporting 1200 engine hp? And it's even more silly to start adding variables. Sure, change the fuel, change the base pressure....the 1000cc injector can still do it, just not with that arrangement. So you haven't disproved anything. That's like the guys from Bugatti saying their Veyron can do 400 and you say, oh but can it do it against a head wind with flat tyres? uh ah!. No it can't do it against a head wind with flat tyres...but it can still do it.

So you're having fun? I prefer a bottle of scotch and a hooker but each to their own. I believe I made the suggestion and listed all the parts (measuring equipment) you will need to get the job done properly. It's back in the other thread....which is now this one.

I have highlighted the operative word. I was merely stating what they are capable of. Sure there are other factors involved but that would be my estimate at their maximum capability with all variables taken into account. Perfect A/F ratio, good base pressure etc etc.