The Dan

That was what my comment was aimed at....they aren't shit just because they are from Ebay. Obviously he bought a dud, doesn't mean you will.

I don't believe you have checked this correctly. 12V is too high to have while cranking

MTQ - largest garrett supplier in Australia

I don't understand? Is there some kind of brand - Ebay Turbo? You can buy new garrett turbos on Ebay, doesn't mean they are shit. Link to a product would probably be a good idea.

It's called a pintle cap. Not absolutely necessary for function but it may not run correctly without them. Can't say I've done the test without them so it's hard to say. Call you local mobile injector cleaner guy. He will keep them on board and they cost about $1 each

Don't forget an injector problem will also cause a missfire.

Spreading propaganda? Or did you say you thought someones car was shit? I nearly got banned for that lol. Some dicks on here take life waaaay too seriously

Yeah I know about the pictures. That's a good price for a pull type clutch, I understand you just go off what Doug tells you...I just wanted to make sure you weren't underselling yourself as the pull type clutches (last time I spoke to him) retailed for over $1000.

Not sure mate. The R34 GTT uses a pull type clutch just like R33/34 GTR but that is a push type clutch in the picture. That $1023 clutch pictured on his website is to suit RB20/25DET pre Neo and R32 GTR pre series 2. The pull type clutches should be up around the $850 mark, that is why I was questioning the price of $650.

Where is the $1023 clutch?

Not 100% sure but you might want to check with Doug on the price for that pull type. That's a fair chunk cheaper than the last few I remember from him.

All twin plate clutches include flywheel

Also....not exactly sure but I think Marty White makes them for him. You'd have to ask David Chilton though. JUN collar is a waste of time. David sells them to me for around $100 then fits them for a further $80

Chilton Engineering up here in Brisbane do a good job on the collars they supply me. Billet machined to a tighter fit. They don't have the stupid grub screws that the JUN collars have. Machine crank down to a 3thou interference fit and shrink it on. Get your local engineer to do it.

Nice

Those dimensions in the picture are wrong. For it to be an 85 trim, the wheel diameter on the outside of the turbine has to be 87mm not 85mm as it states. If the wheel were 85mm it would make it an 89 trim. So...if the wheel diameter is, in fact, 87mm as I suspect, then this is just a polished GT4508R Compressor map is http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre..._Comp_large.gif

It's not HKS's responsibility to provide compressor maps for these, considering they are a Garrett turbocharger. It's like the T51R, HKS won't even sell the compressor maps for these. Garrett on the other hand....

How many do you want buddy? And what's your price on a T51R SPL?

Yeah, they are very hot. Not a bad price tag at $3000 either

If you have a micrometer, why are you using plastigauge? The only basic items you need to build a strong engine are: Inside micrometers 20-50mm Inside Micrometers 50-100mm Outside Micrometers 0-100mm Straight edge Feeler gauge set Ring compressors Torque wrench 5-40nm Torque wrench 40-250nm $1000 in gear and you've got the basic necessities. Any less and you cannot be accurate. How are you going to measure variation in journal thickness or tunnel size with plastigauge? With plastigauge you have to be able to not move the crank even one thou otherwise you'll get a variation in readings. Plus the fact that its nearly impossible to torque the big end caps down without moving the crank just the tiniest bit. You don't even have to see the crank move for it to throw out your readings...you just have to THINK about the crank moving and it will throw out the readings. Also...take your plastigauge and do the same journal three times and tell me how many different readings you get. You will be surprised. When I build an engine, if the clearance is 2thou (if it's an RB) on the BE and I would prefer it to be 2.2 thou or 2.5thou, plastigauge is not that accurate, it cannot tell you the difference between 2-2.2-2.5 thou clearances.

Do not do this! Plastigauge is for fools. It is not accurate in any way whatsoever. His engine has most likely failed because he has not measured bearing clearances but plastigauge is a waste of time, you might as well not measure them at all. Judging by his earlier post, he has no idea what 'clearances' are so it is probably safe to assume he has no idea what he is doing when it comes to assembling an engine. Did you check ring gap clearances? Piston to bore clearances? Big end bearing and main bearing clearances? Rod vs crank side clearance? and the list goes on and on and on..... The only way you will learn to build an engine is by doing it with someone who has a lot of knowledge in that area or if you have someone show you how to do it and then you can go about doing it yourself. Expect to break a few before you get it right.

Fly up, I'll give you a beer for your trouble and drive the thing back to Sydney so you can teach it a lesson on the way home.

Hey mate, Spoke to Barry twice this afternoon. By the time I rang him he had already sent it up to another diagnostic guy. He is a German fellow that does ECU diagnostics for a living. Hopefully he will have some success with it but when I spoke to Barry at the end of the day he had not made any progress. He said the car will not turn over now. Barry mentioned to me something about the two immobilisers but I think we can do something to bypass these. I also think there may be any issue with the Nismo ECU. I don't know if you are the same bloke that I have spoken to on a couple of different occasions regarding the Nismo ECU in your R34 GTR but if not, then that's ok. I will be heading down there with some diagnostic equipment tomorrow at lunch so if the German bloke has no luck with it, hopefully I will be able to tell Barry why it won't go. Cheers, Daniel

You can always measure it yourself. Get yourself a sheet of perspex. cut it out so it cn be bolted down through 4 of the head bolt holes. Drill a small hole in the centre of the perspex. Seal the perspex against the cylinder head after it has been shaved. Measure the amount of fluid you put in the hole to fill up the chamber. Use a blank syringe as it has the cc's on the side of it.

+ 1 and check the turbo for shaft play while you're down there.