The Dan

Gang wars? Replying to PM in a couple of hours. Just stopped in for some technical info in forced ind.

Go to the wreckers and snip some off an N16 pulsar

+1 coil packs

40 x 52 x 7 or 40 x 52 x 8 works also.

Yeah, I can agree with that. But whatever this guy does, I think we can both agree that it is important he chooses his mods wisely based on what he will be using the car for. I always ask customers what they will be using the car for, then build it for twice as much punishment. They will always thrash it twice as much as they let on and then always swear that they never mis-treated it. Harmonic balancer should be another important item on his list. One other thing I forogt: While the sump is off, take a look at where the front driveshaft runs through the centre. Underneath that are the very small 1mm holes where the oil drains back into the pickup area. Drill these out to 6mm on each one. This allows the oil to get back faster. If you are installing the Tomei oil baffle plate, then they have instructions on how to do this with the kit. One thing I must stress also, any drilling or filing or welding wil leave swarf in the sump pan. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN IT ALL OUT THOROUGHLY BEFORE YOU PUT IT BACK ON!!, Then when you've done that, clean it again. Don't get water in the front diff...best way to prevent this is to stuff a rag into the holes. Always use 3bond to put the sump or oil pump on. This is what Nissan use....use it! Other forms of silicon perish over time when in contact with oils. 3Bond is urethane based so oil does not have the same effect.

I have seen the drive gears tested under a press and the N1 gears shatter while the JUN and Tomei drive gears don't give way until 3 times the force is applied. I have a video somewhere, I'll try to dig it up. I have used the N1 pump many times and never had one fail before. Having said that, though, I also believe that oil and fuel are the two most important things in your engine. Lack of either one and it's bye bye. It's more of a waste to fit oil restrictors and extra head returns to the sump. Like you said, 1 extra L in the sump before tracking it prevents problems like that. The return ports at the back and front of the engine flow more than the oil feed ports anyway so the need for extra returns on something that may see the track once or twice a year is silly. I'm still yet to see a Tomei pump fail. If racepace have evidence of one failing, I would be very interested to see it.

I don't see how the sensor can now accurately measure correct airflow? You are only measuring one small part of it.

To start with, get rid of the idea of an N1 oil pump. I've seen too many of these fail now to consider them a reliable investment. Use a JUN (which I have also seen break but only on drag cars) or a Tomei pump - which I have never seen one break. - While the sump is off for the oil pump changeover, either get yourself the TRUST sump extension kit or at least the Tomei oil baffle plate. This will keep oil around the pickup area and help prevent oil starvation. - Oil restrictors in the head as SK suggests. - Extra oil return/s from the back of the cylinder head Strandard head gasket is good for up to 24 psi IMO but you really don't know what condition it is already in and it's a rather pain in the arse job to change it later. I would recommend staying with the standard head gasket but I would definately recommend replacing it with a new item. If you are going to replace the head gasket, make sure you get the cylinder head off to an engineer for a surface grind and it is a good idea to change the valve stem seals while it's there. Get it pressure tested etc while it's there also. If you aren't changing the gasket then don't worry about it. Head studs are optional but a good investment - usually only if you want to run more than 20-22psi Main studs are also good investment but considering your low hp goal I would say they are not needed either. Go ahead and replace all of the copper washers everywhere. You will find that most of them are 14mm and 16mm copper washer (standard garden variety). With the collar comment, all RB cranks require modification. Some have a longer snout but still not long enough. The only problem is fitting a collar to a crank that is still in the engine is not a good idea so you'll have to wait til the rebuild for that one anyway. It would be a god idea to replace your exhaust manifold gaskets while the engine is out also. Ok that's all that comes to mind while I'm eating breakfast, I'll let you know if I think of anything else in the meantime

Would help if you could actually identify the turbo. There are about 10 different T04 combinations so just asking when you will make boost is like saying how much hp will I make with 20psi and not stating what turbocharger you actually have.

Two totally different turbos.

And you can leave it disconnected if you wish, just the gauge won't work until you plug it on

Oil temp sensor Should be located near the pressure sender. Right near the oil filter. Also depends on what oil filter housing you have. Standard or a/market. But that sounds like the wire you are talking about

I'd say stop the spirited runs until you've taken it on the dyno and had your afr's checked.

Nice one Sam. Another happy customer

That should be P trim

T04 B, E, R, S or Z? Or P, Q or O trim

I don't think it is. Who said that?

Yeah you have to buy them from the states to get them at the prices listed before. Otherwise you can get them from Turbonetics in Australia for about $1000 dearer.

+1

Yeah, that last time I was helping you down at Dynosource, I lost count of the cars you sent away with fuel pump issues. We found that issue on Dano's car too mate...well he did. You were spot on, boost leak. He pressurised the system with that tester I was telling you about and found a crack in the cooler. Great work!

Sorry, I must have missed the point to your comment. Are you referring to what I said or what someone else has said?

As stated above, the SPL is actually a GT4502 not a GT4202. And HKS T04Z = Garrett T04Z

MODEL GT4502R T51R TURBO PART # 774087-1 COMP HOUSING 443209-28 COMP A/R 0.72 COMP WHL INDUCER mm 76.58 COMPRESSOR TRIM 56 ADAPTOR N/A CHRA 709647-5 TURB WHL EXDUCER mm 71.42 TURBINE TRIM 76 TURBINE HOUSING 441284-127 TURBINE A/R 0.91 MTING FLG GASK. SIZE 409038 ACTUATOR N/A ACTUATOR PRESSURE N/A ALTERNATE TURBO SB8009 APPROX H.P. 1000

And sorry I am mistaken...it is a 4502, not a 4505. Got myself confused on the 5005

I wasn't talking about a 4202 or a 4508. I said 4505. It is the equivalent of the HKS T51R SPL. Garrett do not list it on their site but the cartridge number is: 709647-5005 I am holding it right now...mmm it is sexy.....and friggin heavy