The Dan

EDIT: Multiple post

Part of that is true. Their kit only comes with gaskets and a couple of fittings and some bolts. You can buy these as kits from Sonic. So we're up to $50-$60 in gaskets/bolts etc. The Garrett turbo is actually more responsive than the HKS one. The HKS T51R SPL uses exactly the same cartridge and make a small change to the compressor cover. They also use Vband on the turbine housing instead of TV flange on the garrett. Garrett makes the turbos for HKS, HKS do some development on housings. Sometimes they change a wheel dimension but essentially remain very much the same. The HKS T51 SPL was designed to make a true 1000hp whereas the Garrett turbo will probably only get you up to 980. That is why the Garrett version remains more responsive.

So for those who think the Garrett GT4505 is different to the HKS T51R SPL, can you tell me what exactly is the difference? And why should this guy pay $5350 instead of $2400 for those differences? You're kidding yourself if you think the SPL will outperform the Garrett. They are the same turbo

Obviously purchased from the states.

Ok, you are wrong.

A manifold or exhaust leak can draw in fresh air from the outside. This will give incorrect a/f ratios if not corrected.

Make sure your neutral switch is working correctly and have you tried resetting the ecu? Once you have done a base reset, then take the car for a spirited run and get it to relearn all its base settings again. You may notice an improvement in fuel economy at the same time.

Hey buddy, try changing your fuel filter and/or checking the flow rate of the fuel pump. If you don't know how to do that, start with the fuel filter change and see if you get results from that. I would say 99.9% of skylines I see with a low rpm hesitation or missfire is caused by fuel system problems, coil packs usually don't give a missfire until 5000rpm or around abouts.

The correct gap is 1.1mm

Dr Drift is the only person you should see. 0425818755

+1 on the HKS 2530 setup. If you want something a little different and you are willing to adapt, anything like a 2860RS, 2871R etc will do. Just need to adapt to the manifold and dump etc. Same as if you were going for the 30R. With the right head setup, a 30R with a .6 rear will see 1 bar before 4500. There are a few better options for better response in that range though. External gated 3076R or 3071R, these are more responsive than the 30R due to the smaller turbine wheel but still retain a good sized compressor for overall hp.

When the spark drops out, that's when it's at around 50kv. The gap on the tester is at 25kv and the gap inside the glass section of the other tester is 25kv also

http://www.erd.com.au/datalogit/27072008007.mp4

I'm trying to upload the vid to show you guys what happens but having no luck at the moment

I have an ignition tester. Can connect it to coil packs, modules, coil packs with module built in, cam angle sensors, crank sensors, injectors...pretty much anything. I connect the wires of the tester to the coil pack and flick the switch. It fires the coil rapidly until you switch it off. Not sure on the exact time it uses but I can find out. I use a spark tester to increase the gap until I hear audible break down. It's fairly loud when operating so when you start to hear juttering you can tell it's struggling. I can throw a vid up if anyone really wants to see. But that would require me having to go out and hook it all up etc.

Maybe you need to re-read my post then. And if you read it again you will notice that I said IF you believe gapping plugs down is solving anything....etc. So if you do, then you ARE an idiot. If you don't, then you're not. Sometimes it is required but not in any street car making under 500hp. You copper plugs will last 15 - 20k, big deal. I never said there was anything wrong with using them. I did, however, say that they don't last the distance...in comparison to an Iridium. The only thing I aim to do is dispell this stupid myth that Iridium plugs are the devil. The iridium plug does not have a lower arc over voltage...where did you get that from? It REQUIRES a lower arc over voltage if that's what you mean. But this is a good thing as your standard coilpacks don't have to work quite as hard to keep up with the demands. Splitfires aren't just a replacement for factory items. They output a higher voltage than the factory items. I have bench tested these compared to new factory coils and proven it. Splitfire coil packs start to break down between 45kv and 50kv, standard items only get to 35kv before breakdown occurs.

There is nothing wrong with using coppers if you change them every 5-10k. But Brett is right on the wasted time thing. Iridiums don't cost $120+ for 6. $85 for 6 is the going rate. I had 260rwkw in an RB20. I revved to 8800rpm nearly every day. Iridiums for it's whole life. I used to change them out at 50k just to be sure. Coppers cannot last the distance and retain normal gap. The electrode melts down to nothing and you end up causing more ignition problems. It's incorrect to say that with a tuned car the Iridium plugs will not last. Buy the correct heat range and you won't have a problem. And you're an idiot if you think gapping plugs down to 0.8 is solving any problems. You are only masking the problem. Buy a set of splitfires, leave them at 1.1 and enjoy the increase in HP. Iridiums are not crap. why do they use them in the R35 GTR? Why do all high end sports car now run them?

Suggestion: Get it tuned What ECU have you got?

If you know people are going to shoot you down, why post that shit up? That is the most stupid thing I have ever heard, like Rob said, it'll just make it overfuel more. It will also cause issues as you will lose boost. $50 is fuck all, save up and get it done properly. People are on here to help you out but only if you use some common sense.

You are comparing a medium grade semi synthetic oil to a higher grade full synthetic oil. compare apples with apples. Castrol Magnatec is as good as Motul Turbolight 4100 and it's $10 cheaper a bottle. Why doesn't everyone just go buy that?

Exactly.....and it doesn't matter what threads are showing on someone elses. Their fuel pump could be arse so it will throw everything out of wack. Mech gauge and do it properly

Stops pulsation of fuel returning to the tank caused by injector pulse at high pressure. The FPR, to regulate fuel pressure, pulses because of the injectors and therefore the dampener was added to prevent cavitating etc.

Agree...you don't need it.....but! It does serve a purpose. Nissan put it there for a reason but it's not critical to engine running.

RB20 injectors are top feed

Lucky you are a forum trader.